Reloading the Danish Rolling Block in 8x56R

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tacfoley

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Thanks to Ian ['Tall' on airgunbbs.com, a UK-based forum] for this information on reloading for the Danish Remington rolling block rifle/carbine in 8x56R -

I have recently sold my 8x58R Rolling block but I can tell you what I shot with some success at Bisley historic arms meetings. My original cases were supplied by the now extinct North Devon Firearms but these were turned cases and were only suitable for Black Powder loads. I then discovered that it was possible to make the cases from 348 win brass and these are suitable for smokeless loads. I used Accurate 5744 with loads upto 22gns behind a 240 gn bullet which I cast from an NEI mould.The bullet casts at around .330 and I sized and lubed it to .329. That tied in well with NDFS's guide which suggests the bore for these is .328 - .329. This bullet is gas checked ( unless you need to conform with MLAGB regs using black powder) and the velocity was about 1700fps. Because there is a lot of space in the case with that load I used a tube of sponge which I punched from 1" thick sponge block to keep the powder pressed to the case base. If you need to find the mould goto www.neihandtools.com/catalog.htm and click on page 6 and look for .330 - 245 #98. I hope you find this useful.

tac
 
a couple of thoughts on the above. I recall making forming and loading dies for an 8mm Siamese rifle. I started out with 45-70 shells and as I recall, I had to make 5 dies to bring the neck down from 45 cal to 32 cal as well as anneal the case a second time about 1/2 way through the process. I suspect you would need about the same for 8 mm Danish.

When I am shooting smokeless in a black powder case, I generally use a pinch of dryer lint to keep the powder in position. Without something to do that, I get very variable burn rates and of course lousy accuracy

cheers mooncoon
 
The easiest shell I've found to start with is the 8x56RS (Hungarian Mannlicher). PRVI brass can be had from Tradex.
Anneal - prime - ~10gr Unique or Trail Boss - fill to brim with cornmeal - glob of white glue, dry overnight - fireform.
Neck size, load with a gas-checked Lee 8mm 205gr boolet over 26-28 gr of 4198, or, if you're lucky enough to have some, 24gr SR4759.
I get just under 1700 fps with the latter load and real decent accuracy, too. i.e. 4" grouping at 100 yds with the open sights, which I have a lot of trouble using, with my mole vision.

Other starter shells I've tried are:
45-70 (a bit short, 45-90 would be ideal);
300 Weatherby Magnum (rim diameter is too small, extractor won't engage)

My own experience using lint or Dacron in this calibre is that it doesn't seem to make much difference one way or the other. For really light loads I'll use 8grTrail Boss.

One thing that I've learned from the BPCR guys is that a lighter primer is probably better. I think the reason for this is that the more powerful primers start pushing the bullet out too much before the powder is fully ignited, and then pressure is reduced, which makes for a less efficient burn. It may be an incorrect explanation. However I have observed better results with weaker primers when using the slower powders in this cartridge, although I haven't yet done exhaustive tests.
 
I just use Prvi 8X56R Hungarian brass in my rifles chambered in 8X58RD. I tried the 45-70, 45-90 and belted mag (338 WM), and went back to the 8X56R.
 
Thanks for the infirmative additional posts, Gentlemen. I'll put them on the UK forum for the guy who boought the gun from Ian.

We can get Bertam brass here pretty easily from Henry Krank in Yorkshire - the main, if not the only, importer of Bertam brass.

Thanks again.

tac
 
You can also use the 30/40 Krag loads. I have been using them with success in my rollers. They have low enough pressures that the gun is not in danger of a failure.
 
Metman2 said:
............One thing that I've learned from the BPCR guys is that a lighter primer is probably better. I think the reason for this is that the more powerful primers start pushing the bullet out too much before the powder is fully ignited, and then pressure is reduced, which makes for a less efficient burn. It may be an incorrect explanation. However I have observed better results with weaker primers when using the slower powders in this cartridge, although I haven't yet done exhaustive tests.
Click to expand...

Did they happen to mention the source or options for the lighter primers?

In my .38-55 loads I rely on neck tension and no crimp so I can leave them a hair long and set them onto the rifling then push the casing home with a firm thumb push. So an overly energetic primer could well start pushing the bullet out before the powder catches. At least it would be worthy of a trial run.
 
What they often do is to use a so-called primer wad, which is a thin paper disk e.g. newsprint, that fits inside the bottom of the shell, under the powder. This is supposed to have the effect of absorbing some of the force of the primer, as well as keeping powder out of the primer flash-hole. Apparently in the old days the primets were weaker since they only needed to ignite BP. lighter primer can be also achieved by using pistol primers, although these may require some sort of spacer because they will seat a bit deep in the rifle cartridge pocket and as such the firing pin might not strike them hard enough.
One result of this arrangement - primer wad and/or pistol primer - observed by those who have used them is that the chronographed MV has significantly less spread, which should entail tighter groups. I have not had the time to gather my own data. I'd certainly be interested in anyone else's.
 
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That's TWO great sounding suggestions.

For my old vintage rolling block I know it works with pistol primers since I've already used some. But I've yet to work my loads out over the chrono. I'll put that light paper hint in my rolling block hints folder as well.

Thanks much! And once I get to try this out I'll report back.
 
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