Reloading the WSL (32, 35, 351, 401) Line of Cartridges

Andy

Andy

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A very frequent question is: where can I buy or how can I make ammo for the WSL cartridges? Most often the 351 WSL, sometimes the 401 WSL, and rarely the 32 and 35 WSL.

Well, you really can't buy ammo, at least not readily or cheaply, but you sure can reload, although it requires a bit of work, some experience, and a few tools not everyone owns. I realize that the conversion is beyond the ability of the vast majority of the people asking how to do it, but original brass is scarce. Dies aren't so bad - you can use 357 Mag (for the 351 WSL) and 41 Mag (for the 401 WSL) die sets, or buy more expensive dies designed for those rounds.

Here's the best website I've seen that provides advice on how to form brass:

http://www.realguns.com/archives/160.htm

I use 357 Maximum brass (Remington makes it) to make 351 WSL, and 414 Super Mag brass (Starline makes it, and a sponsor "Doubletap" sells it) to make 401 WSL. Both simply require reducing the rim diameter and cutting the extractor groove a bit deeper (not always necessary), and reduction in length. They produce exact replicas of the original brass. 7.62x39 brass can be used to make 401 WSL (as described in the article), but it's a bit more work than using 414 brass, and the rim is a bit undersized - but it works and the brass is not difficult to find.

I've tried a few powders and found that H4227 is ideal - pretty much as simple as a full case of it for powders as heavy as 158gr in the 351 WSL and 210gr in the 401 WSL. I use cast bullets and size them down to 0.352" for the 351 WSL and 0.406" for the 401 WSL.
 
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Interesting info. A friend has a .32 SL and we were wondering about loading for it, but didn't know where to start for brass.
 
"...where to start for brass...." Shooter's Choice, in Waterloo, lists Bertram .32 Win SL at $50.95 per 20. They say they have it ordered for stock.
All that kind of stuff is pricey.
Epp's is listing a Win 1905 .32 SL mag, in good condition, at $75.
The .35 WSL and .351 WSL are not the same thing either.
 
Hi Andy! Your advice on my .401WSL was very useful and I have just acquired a .351wsl. When you say 357 dies work would that mean I could use a .357 Lee Loader set? The lee loader only sizes the neck but it's a straight cartridge so that should do it. I have a Lee Loader for the .401wsl and it works great for my limited purposes.
 
rattus said:
Hi Andy! Your advice on my .401WSL was very useful and I have just acquired a .351wsl. When you say 357 dies work would that mean I could use a .357 Lee Loader set? The lee loader only sizes the neck but it's a straight cartridge so that should do it. I have a Lee Loader for the .401wsl and it works great for my limited purposes.
Click to expand...

I started out with Lee Loaders and still have a bunch, but never saw one for the 401 WSL - that's a rare bird.

A 357 Mag Lee Loader could work, but presents a problem, as the sizer is designed for the brass to be pounded all the way in, and you need to stop short, when sizing 351 WSL brass in it (as it's about 0.090" longer than 357 mag brass). If you can make a washer 0.100" thick (or a stack of thinner ones), with a hole just a bit larger than 3/8" and smaller than 13/32", it should work. You might not need the washer, depending on how the Lee Loader was constructed, so try it with a sacrificial 351 WSL brass and pound it all the way in. If the neck gets crumpled, you do, if not, you don't.
 
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Funny this subject comes up now. I have just cut to size some 414 brass. The 414 miked out at 1.600" long with a rim dia. of .483". The 401 sample case is 1.490" long and a rim of 0.450" So there is really not a lot to making up the brass. Just deepen the extractor grove a bit and your done.
 
Where do you get the 401 bullets to reload?

I can get berdan primed 401 brass for $24/100. A small amount of lathe work and I can boxer prime them!
 
In the 12th edition of the Reloader's Digest there is an article on the .401 and the author uses .35 Remington cases to form cases for the .401.
 
A veritable wealth of info gentlemen. Thanks.

Now to decide if a 'dark bore' is worth buying. The rifle is described as having a dark bore, but I am never sure what this means. Is this an NRA bore rating standard? Rifling is still present for sufficient accuracy? Rusted and then corroded beyond all use? Smoothbore? :) The price is $269.

Anyway, I am inquiring further about the rifle as I now realize that, as a reloader, I can make up some cases from one of the several options noted in your collective replies. I don't need this gun, but I just thought is was unique enough to be a fun project and that it would be great to actually harvest a deer or two with this classic.

Again, thanks gentlemen for an outstanding amount of information on this old rifle.

Woodlotowner
 
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