Reloading

In addition to finding a mentor, purchase a reloading manual. The major manufacturers all publish them and they come with in-depth instruction on the loading process in addition to the data needed to produce safe loads. I would have to say that for me Lyman makes the best for rookies. They are not type specific when it comes to components and they cover a lot as well as articles on ballistics and bullet casting. There are also manuals from Hornady, LEE, Speer, Nosler etc. Even if you decide that loading isn't for you, the info you gain will help enhance the sport for you. Not a bad deal for a $30-50 investment
 
You can get into reloading for dirt cheap (depending on what you are planning to reload) .

The problem with this is that you will need a lot of time to reload one round, which may not work for you. A lot of guys who are retired or collage students - don't have a problem with this. Limited income but they have a lot of time. When the cost increases, is when you want to load large quantity of ammo --- fairly quickly.

Two examples;

Pistol Lee Loader for 9mm - slow as hell (but fun)!


Example 2: Dillion 650 with Cast/Bullet Dropper (fastforward to 05:30) - fast as hell! (we can even say tooo fast)


OP - send me your email, i have a lot of manual/books that I can share with you. It will help you safe few pennies at the start... when ever dollar matters.

Keep us posted, on what you decide to buy!
 
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Hi all. I pulled the trigger on a Lee Classic Turret press set up. Bought off a fellow CGNer. I should receive it by the end of this week. I will still have to purchase the dies for 40S&W and 45ACP. Seller says it comes with dies for 9mm and .223. He also said it is a 4 hole turret ( 2 turrets ).
I'd like to start to acquire some components such as Primers/ powder/ bullets/ cases etc. Can any one suggest advise on these components. I have two or three suppliers near me ( curb side pick up now I guess ) ...Select Shooting Supplies, Shooters Choice, and Hummason Mtg. I've read that CCI Primers are good ( do I need small or large pistol primers for 40 and 45? ). No idea about the rest?
Just looking for suggestions as a jumbstart. I will be still be doing lots of reading on this whole subject. Just want to have some items on hand a little at a time.

GT.
 
HOWDY; Lawerys in Calondia is my first go to for supplies. Hummasons has campro bullets now, about the same price as gun stores. BUT HUMs and Lawery can be a one stop for primer, powder, bullets. Call first, both places are close and friendly.
Large pistol primers for 45 acp, titegroup powder, and canpro 230 RN bullets. RCBS carbide only dies are my prefered, Layman work well, Lee 45 factory crimp die can smooth out things and is handy to have around.
I never go near 40 cal.
I use Federal primers only, they have a soft primer and go bang in cowboy action tuned, soft reduced hammer spring. Have used other primers as available so far so good. Dillon recommend to not use federal primers in the tube due to there sensitive and could go bang in the tube feed.
CCI or Winchester may be better choice for you.
 
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Check out Black Sheep Brass. Good source for once-fired brass. Also Higginson Powders, for once-fired brass, primers, powder, bullets, reloading dies, etc. Double Tap Sports, for new, Starline brass. You might also check out Bullseye North.
Small pistol primers for .40 S&W. .45 ACP are normally large pistol primed. But...some cases do take small pistol. Don't recall which brand, offhand. So be sure to check, before depriming/repriming.
CCI primers will work well for your needs. Also, Winchester and Federal. Plus, Remington. Have no personal experience with these, but,,,I've heard good reviews about Sellier & Bellot primers, too. Hummason generally has Winchester primers on hand. Federal too, though sometimes limited quantity.
One offer has already been made to furnish you with loading manuals. Another good online resource: Hodgdon Reloading. Lots of info available. Just yesterday, I also saw downloadable reloading manuals, offered on the Sass Wire Forum site. May be worth a look.
 
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Check out Landsborough auction on I-collector (triggers and bows Burford ONT.) This sunday the 17 , lots of brass to get started, Even if you pay above fair price its a start and pick up in the back door. May find other crap there too, but get some advise to prevent wasting time and money. I drop half the stuff back into the next auction if there is extra things useless to me. End up breaking even or profit some. Clean package label well and get better bids.
 
They say (I can confirm after 7 yrs of reloading), you dont save money reloading, however you get to shoot 3 times as many rounds for same price. That is true and more for pistols reloading. If you have the space, the time and can find a consistent source of reloading supplies is the other issue. I tend to buy all I can find when out, constantly stocking components as I find. Considering a pound of pistol powder contains 7000 grains of powder, and my average 9mm takes 3.5gr, that's about 1750 reloads rounds per pound of powder ($30-35 each).

To get started review youtube videos on both progressive and single stage and see what will best suit how many times you actually go out shooting over the cost of both systems, one costs more but saves time, the other takes more time but costs less initial investment. Me, I load all winter and shoot in spring, summer and fall, so it works out good for me. I enjoy the single stage process, and process 1000 pieces of brass, 1 step at a time (some might find that repetitive and go with progressive), so clean all brass, deprime, re-size, cut to length, prime, powder, bullet head seating, crimp (if needed), store then shoot.

I spend all summer and fall looking for supplies when I am out and about, and built up a good supply over the years.

Be fair warned - it will lead you down other paths, like casting and powder coating, shotgun reloads..it can turn into a madness if you are precision shooter searching for the correct/perfect/best components to give the best consistent performance out each bullet weight, rifle type, set back (bullet jump), .01 of a grain differences...lol..the madness.

It is a good hobby that can done fast - or slow and steady.


Hello... I shoot 9mm...40S&W...45ACP. I don't get to the range as much as I would like but when I do I usually shoot 100-250 rounds of what every caliber I take along and that may be 2 or all 3. I'm wondering about learning to reload. I have no idea where to start or even if it would be cost effective and I have absolutely no experience, but aside from the cost I think it would be more of a hobby more than anything else. Is it worth it in the long run even for a hobby considering components that would be needed plus the equipment required to do so? What would be the price of admission just to start out on one of the caliber's? I'm not looking for exact figures here but more like ball park?

Regards.
G.T.
 
DOWN the rabbit hole...yes...down, down, down....lolololol
Someone who shoots, often takes up hand loading to get more enjoyment out of the sport - my own experience is that not much money is saved over buying store bought ammo - just end up with tooling, stacks of brass, components, etc. on hand and also shoot much more than otherwise. Sort of like the hunting guys who want to then learn how to process their own animals - then to make sausage, and so on - same deal - not so sure it actually saves money over taking it to butcher shop (if there is one near you), but sort of "completes" the knowledge that a "hunter" should have. Once you hand load, you have got a stash of supplies and some tooling, you do not care so much about periodic "shortages", etc. Or you could buy pallets of ammo and get to the same place, but not as much "fun" in that!!! And then you will find out about casting or swaging your own bullets, and down the "rabbit hole" you go!!!
 
Used Dillon 550 $500
1000 campro 45 acp $160
1000 cci LPP $45
1lb CFE pistol powder $40
Brass??
Calipers $30
Scale $50
If the correct does are not included , another $ 80


So $900 would get you started ,with 1000 loaded rnds.
With the bare minimum.
You can add extra equipment as you go.

If you dont like it, you'll have no trouble selling the press.
You could save a few hundred bucks, by buying a single stage press, but that'll quickly suck the fun out of it.
 


Thanks for the link yomomma, but as I posted earlier I have the items below being shipped to me and I should have it by weeks end. I'm sure there are still many other items that everyone has suggested that I will still need to acquire.


Classic turret press
223 and 9mm dies
Two turrets
Hornady digital scale
Powder measure
Drum riser
Turret primer
Lee reloading manual
 
DOWN the rabbit hole...yes...down, down, down....lolololol

Hahahaha oh I'm quite familiar with how easy a hobby can take you down deep into that rabbit hole. I was obsessed when I first started collecting Vintage audio gear a few years back, and now I have more than any one person should have and can could not possibly listen to it all. For some reason I can't bring myself to part with it now. The cost certainly adds up.
 
Thanks for the link yomomma, but as I posted earlier I have the items below being shipped to me and I should have it by weeks end. I'm sure there are still many other items that everyone has suggested that I will still need to acquire.


Classic turret press
223 and 9mm dies
Two turrets
Hornady digital scale
Powder measure
Drum riser
Turret primer
Lee reloading manual

The Lee Turret is a good press, I've been using one for 30 years. Lube the turrets with a light lubricant (not graphite!) before set up, and then clean and re-lube occasionally. It will triple the life of the press.

You have most of the basic tools looked after. You still need:

  • case trimmer for .223
  • brass prep tools (inside/outside neck deburring tool, primer pocket cleaner)
  • a digital scale needs to have a way to prove it is still in calibration. I would have gone with a beam scale as my first scale instead of digital but that's me.
 
The Lee Turret is a good press, I've been using one for 30 years. Lube the turrets with a light lubricant (not graphite!) before set up, and then clean and re-lube occasionally. It will triple the life of the press.

You have most of the basic tools looked after. You still need:

  • case trimmer for .223
  • brass prep tools (inside/outside neck deburring tool, primer pocket cleaner)
  • a digital scale needs to have a way to prove it is still in calibration. I would have gone with a beam scale as my first scale instead of digital but that's me.


What would be the best beam scale to go with without spending top dollar. I just loaded 10 rounds of 9mm yesterday ( very first rounds ) using 115 Campro RN FCP bullets,4.7gr of HP-38 seated to overall length of 1.12in as per the Campro data site. Problem is the Hornady digital scale sometimes fluctuated and it made me sceptical about how precise it was. Anytime it happened I dumped the powder and recalibrated the scale. Sometimes it would show 4.5 or 4.6 instead of the set 4.7 that the drum measure is set at. A few nights ago I set the drum measure to 4.7 and threw the powder about 30 times to see how consistent it was and it only changed one or two times over 30. Reading the instructions for the Hornady it states that even a fluxuation in temperature of 1 or 2 degrees can affect the scale. Ugh.

GT.
 
Even air movement can fluctuate a scale reading, ceiling fan or draft from open window. .1gr load fluctuations is not that huge unless you are at max load, .1 gr is not detectable to most pistol shooters on paper. also for pure shooter accuracy loads that just have enough powder charge to reliably function the action in a pistol are best. Unless of course if you have to load to a certain power factor to complete.
 
The Lee disk measures are actually very consistent, weigh the first couple of drops each time to make sure there isn't something weird going on and you'll be fine. I've loaded tens of thousands of rounds on a Lee turret since 1987, and it's still going strong. Higginsons is awesome to deal with and they have a huge stock of parts if something wears out, they also have all of the other stuff you need. The turret was the best choice for starting to load small capacity cases, once you get the sequence down pat, it transfers well to progressive set ups. Nice choice. As far as a beam scale goes - I have both digital and beam - and I've used the beam scale twice since 1987. Digital scales come with check weights to re-zero them, use the check weight each time you use the scale and all is well.
 
The Lee disk measures are actually very consistent, weigh the first couple of drops each time to make sure there isn't something weird going on and you'll be fine. I've loaded tens of thousands of rounds on a Lee turret since 1987, and it's still going strong. Higginsons is awesome to deal with and they have a huge stock of parts if something wears out, they also have all of the other stuff you need. The turret was the best choice for starting to load small capacity cases, once you get the sequence down pat, it transfers well to progressive set ups. Nice choice. As far as a beam scale goes - I have both digital and beam - and I've used the beam scale twice since 1987. Digital scales come with check weights to re-zero them, use the check weight each time you use the scale and all is well.

It seems that the display might change by .1gr but then stays consistent just less that .1gr. Other than that it seems pretty accurate and yes I have used the check weight each time.
Yeah Higginsons is great for parts and accessories for the Lee Turret. I've already ordered a few things from there and still have a die ring wrench in the mail. Lol.
 
I have another question sorry.... maybe I'm being overly cautious and it's my imagination but is it normal to see the bottom of the bullet making a sort of bulge or shadow ( much easier to see in person ) in the brass in the final product?? I've drawn a red line around the area affected. This all very new to me and these are the very first 10 rounds of 9 mm that I've done so if there is something I'm not doing correctly I'd love to know before proceeding any further.

G.T.
 

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