Reloads in a Glock 17? please give me the straight 'dope'

BBq_Woa!

BBq_Woa!

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Hey there.
So I've heard it a million times, "don't put reloads in a glock"

How specific is this?
are commercial reloads ok? things like WOLF reloads?
it's a Glock 17 9mm in case that makes a difference..

just curious, since my range only allows lead, and WOLF is cheaper than winclean, but winclean is fine if I absolutely must.
thanks!
 
Glock states that lead will build up in the stock factory barrel with polygonal rifling (which they all have stock) and will from the build-up of lead cause unsafe chamber pressures. I've never heard that it's unsafe to use reloads, only LEAD.
Personally I shoot a 17, and 34 9mm in glock and clean the barrels regularly with lead remover and have never had a problem in over 20thousand rounds. Those were all reloads and the brass before were jacketed factory. (Glocks keep on ticking)
If you want to properly shoot lead in your 17 properly please buy an aftermarket barrel from questar or someone like that with regular rifling which can safely shoot lead.
 
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Stick to plated bullet heads, LEAD rounds are not recommended although, you can still use them in Glock bbls, you just have to watch out the lead buildup.
In the country where I came from, almost all the people I know who is shooting Glock, use lead bullet heads with no problem.

Just my 2-cents
 
I too have a Glock 17 and belong to a club with lead only indoor shooting.

Don't reload yet but would like to get into it in the future. If one is shooting lead in a Glock, how often do you need to clean the rifling? Do you need special lead remover or or will a good scrubbing with the cleaning brush do it?

:runaway:
 
you can get barrels with non-poly rifling- solution for lead shooters- without the poly rifled barrel, it's just another gun- i shoot a beretta 92, and the real simple solution i use is to put a jacketed at the bottom of the 10 round mag- really reduces the leading
 
From Wikipedia: (Take with a grain of salt)

The manufacturer Glock advises against using lead bullets (meaning bullets not covered by a copper jacket) in their polygonally rifled barrels, which has led to a widespread belief that polygonal rifling is not compatible with lead bullets. Noted firearms expert and barrel maker, the late Gale McMillan, has also commented that lead bullets and polygonal rifling are not a good mix. However, since neither H&K nor Kahr recommend against lead bullets in their polygonal rifled barrels, it is probable that there is an additional factor involved in Glock's warning. One explanation is that Glock barrels have a fairly sharp transition between the chamber and the rifling, and this area is prone to lead buildup if lead bullets are used. This buildup may result in failures to fully return to battery, allowing the gun to fire with the case not fully supported by the chamber, leading to a potentially dangerous case failure. The other explanation is that Glock's barrels may be more prone than normal to leading, which is the buildup of lead in the bore that happens in nearly all firearms firing high velocity lead bullets. This lead buildup must be cleaned out regularly, or the barrel can become constricted and result in higher than normal pressures.
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Most of the Glock Kabooms have occurred with reloaded 40 S&W ammo, the 40 has high pressure and that pressure peaks fast. In regard to lead, use a barrel designed to shoot 9mm lead bullets and you should be fine. Lastly, I have also incurred lead build up in my Sig and Ruger pistols. Regards, Richard:D
 
I am kinda curious about this also. I have a stock Glock 17 that I plan on shooting lead through -
My question is how many rounds can I expect to shoot through the gun before it needs a good cleaning to eliminate the lead build up ?

I tend to clean my guns after every 500 rounds or so, am I thinking correctly here that I should be safe ?

I used lead in all my guns and I just run a bore brush down the barrel when I do the cleaning/oiling.
 
you SHOULD be using some kind of solution to "attack" whatever's left in there anyway,- typically , wet patch, once through, then wait a few minutes, then brush, then dry patch until it comes out clean- dry brushing does NOTHING
 
t-star said:
you SHOULD be using some kind of solution to "attack" whatever's left in there anyway,- typically , wet patch, once through, then wait a few minutes, then brush, then dry patch until it comes out clean- dry brushing does NOTHING
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well generally what I do is run an oiled patch through, wait a while, then scrub with a borebrush, then run dry patches through. they always seem to have plenty of stuff on them, and eventually come through clean.

does that seem ok, or should i get a solution?
 
nope- you should be doing the solvent thing as there's not only lead/copper but nitropowder residue left in the bore after every shot a bottle of hoppes 9 isn't all that expensive- i even use a mop for the initial - dip the mop in solvent, shove it though the bore , and then do your brush thing- it chemically loosens the "dirt" residue and makes your brush more effective then patch till you get clean, the "ash" that's left is the same stuff that's in your barrel, but now it's "welded " to your barrel by heat- hence, you need solvent
 
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You can shoot reloads in a Glock, just make sure they are plated or jacketed bullets because of the ploygonal rifling in a Glock barrel.

If you want to shoot lead reloads through your Glock buy yourself an aftermarket barrel that has ballard rifling, ie lonewolf.
 
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