Rem 700 bolt handle fell off fixable?

I am fully retired and not working...

The last person who attempted to silver solder this did a poor job. All previous silver solder has to be completely removed from the handle and the bolt body before any repair can be made. It can be successfully silver soldered or tig welded after it is located for maximum initial extraction.

That handle looks like such a mess from previous attempts it may be better to replace the bolt handle.

Properly silver soldered don't come loose from normal use, properly welded don't come loose...

It is imperative the bolt handle be located for maximum initial extraction or the whole job is worthless.
 
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Rem 700 bolt handles are known to break. It is not impossible, you just need to find a gunsmith to take on the project.
 
I would not think $150 for labour would be out of line... that would depend on the quality of the shop and how busy it is...
 
New bolt cost approximately 300 from pacific tool , I think they’re a US company so $400 plus shipping.

And that’s if they ship to Canada
 
It doesn't need the expense of a new bolt... and I would not buy any bolt unless it is machined for the 700 extractor.
 
This is what happens when a repair is attempted by someone who isn't up to the job.
I wouldn't bother trying to salvage that handle.
Look at it as an opportunity to install an upgraded handle and optimize primary extraction at the same time.
I have always used paste silver braze. Never had one come off that I installed.
No experience with a TIG welded repair. Don't know where the beads are run. I do know that a proper silver brazed job has a lot of surface area and is very strong.
I was wondering what to do with the 700 long action in the photo. One bolt was standard faced, the other magnum. I forget now which was which. I did set the thing up as a rifle. In the last while I assembled a .25-06 sporter and a .300WinMag with heavy barrel in an HS stock..
Anyway, there a bolt body without a handle, and two replacement handles, one factory, the other extended.
It depends on what is desired. I've used that pattern of extended handle on a precision rifle and it is excellent.
Note that the handle attachment area on the bolt body is smooth, clean and undamaged. That is important for a good job.

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I explained the options to the guy and he said he has a buddy who’s going to tig weld it on.
Fill ya boots… lol
 
I wonder where the beads are run...
The front of the handle is where the primary extraction camming occurs. The end is what stops rotation as the bolt is opened. Under the root, nothing much is happening. The rear of the saddle doesn't engage anything; but that is sort of off center as far as the application of force to the bolt handle is concerned.
I hope that the TIG welder understands what is involved mechanically and has a proper jig to hold the handle in correct orientation for welding. Just clamping it in place with Vicegrips is an invitation to a ruined bolt. All that braze will need to be cleaned up before welding. Along with the broken screw that was added. Maybe the welder can fill that hole. Don't know if the bolt and handle being stainless is going to affect the job.
The handle must be placed in exactly the right position for proper function.
 
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