Rem 700 bolt issue

catfan

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Hello I just bought a rem 700 5R in 300 win mag. I have only fired 40 rounds and am very impressed with accuracy. I think i have an issue with it. When i close the bolt with a case in it loaded or empty, fired or resized, factory ammo or reloads the bolt is very hard to close. I have had head space checked and it is fine. Is the rifle safe to shoot or should i send it to a gunsmith. I have put a timminy 510 trigger in it and also have issues with the bolt release sticking. Any suggestions is greatly appreciated
 
Is it possible that the bolt release is dragging on the bolt body?
I would remove the trigger and see if it still binds. It the sear is up too high and puts pressure on the bottom of the bolt then it may close OK on an empty chamber as the entire bolt can be off set.....but once a case keeps the bolt face centered with the chamber you see the dragging issue.
Just my thoughts, a decent place to start if before the trigger job it did not bind.
 
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First make sure your scope base screws are not too long. If they are sticking through the action it will drag on the bolt when you try to close it. Second, make sure your stock is cleared around your trigger. Third, make sure your bedding screw are not too long. A quick way to check this is to loosen the bedding screw 1 turn and see if that solves the problem with the bolt closing.
 
I installed a Timney also and the bolt release hardware needed a bit of fine tuning till it worked 100%. It should show on instructions that you may need to tweek or bend the rod a bit that pushes on release.
 
. I have put a timminy 510 trigger in it and also have issues with the bolt release sticking. Any suggestions is greatly appreciated

The bolt release most likely isn't the problem, but rather the linkage on the side of your trigger that pushes on the bolt release. Check your triggerguard and stock inletting for clearance.
 
Hello I just bought a rem 700 5R in 300 win mag. I have only fired 40 rounds and am very impressed with accuracy. I think i have an issue with it. When i close the bolt with a case in it loaded or empty, fired or resized, factory ammo or reloads the bolt is very hard to close. I have had head space checked and it is fine. Is the rifle safe to shoot or should i send it to a gunsmith. I have put a timminy 510 trigger in it and also have issues with the bolt release sticking. Any suggestions is greatly appreciated

Firm closing on factory rounds is okay, especially when you are experiencing good accuracy. You can size fired brass to close easier - just don't size it so much you push the shoulder way back. Check to see if your bolt release is sticky when the action is out of the stock. If it contacts on the stock or the trigger guard it will stick. Sometimes the top end that contacts the actual bolt stop needs be be bent ever so slightly one way or the other for it to function smoothly. Get it working out of the wood first.
 
Is it possible that maybe the chamber is short? Because it's a 300 Win. Mag. it headspaces on the belt. Do 300 go and no-go's have the full body or just enough for the belt on the gauge? I've never had one so I don't know what the gauges look like. If it's just the belt, it's not actually touching the datum point on the shoulder in the chamber like a standard rimless gauge, and it theory the chamber could be short???
It's very unlikely that a factory chamber would be short, the reamer is all one piece. Was the headspace on the tight side? Just my two cents.
 
I own a 300 win mag also. The headspace is calculated on the belt from factory but you or me as a reloader would calculate head space from the shoulder. If it was tight headspace the OP would have experienced problems right from the first round .
 
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I own a 300 win mag also. The headspace is calculated on the belt from factory but you or me as a reloader would calculate head space from the shoulder. If it was tight headspace the OP would have experienced problems right from the first round .
It sounds to me like it has been right from the beginning...
 
It is not uncommon to find factory magnum brass a little long or a little short in body/shoulder dimensions... when it happens to be a little long and it finds a chamber that is a little short (but within specs) you can experience exactly what the op has experienced... no big deal.

I have never seen a chamber where a belted magnum actually would be tight on the belt... it always will be on the shoulder if it is tight.
 
First make sure your scope base screws are not too long. If they are sticking through the action it will drag on the bolt when you try to close it. Second, make sure your stock is cleared around your trigger. Third, make sure your bedding screw are not too long. A quick way to check this is to loosen the bedding screw 1 turn and see if that solves the problem with the bolt closing.
This is some good advice and easy to check, I am betting on scope base screws.
 
Thanks for all the suggestions. The issue with the hard closing bolt has been from the begining. I have checked the scope base screws - still have the issue with the rail off. The bolt is hard to close when out of the stock and trigger is out as well. One thing i forgot to meantion before is when you close the bolt and then open it say half way and close it again, it closes a lot easier. Also on the fired brass there is a small cut in the head of the brass.
I have adjusted the bolt release following the instructions and the issue seems to be with the bolt catch. I have polished the bolt catch and it still sticks. Should i sand it down then repolish it?
Thanks again for all the help and suggestions
 
Thanks for all the suggestions. The issue with the hard closing bolt has been from the begining. I have checked the scope base screws - still have the issue with the rail off. The bolt is hard to close when out of the stock and trigger is out as well. One thing i forgot to meantion before is when you close the bolt and then open it say half way and close it again, it closes a lot easier. Also on the fired brass there is a small cut in the head of the brass.
I have adjusted the bolt release following the instructions and the issue seems to be with the bolt catch. I have polished the bolt catch and it still sticks. Should i sand it down then repolish it?
Thanks again for all the help and suggestions

At this stage before you screw something up, take it to a competent gunsmith.
 
Thanks for all the suggestions. The issue with the hard closing bolt has been from the begining. I have checked the scope base screws - still have the issue with the rail off. The bolt is hard to close when out of the stock and trigger is out as well. One thing i forgot to meantion before is when you close the bolt and then open it say half way and close it again, it closes a lot easier. Also on the fired brass there is a small cut in the head of the brass.
I have adjusted the bolt release following the instructions and the issue seems to be with the bolt catch. I have polished the bolt catch and it still sticks. Should i sand it down then repolish it?
Thanks again for all the help and suggestions

In your first post you said you had the headspace checked... who checked it? Did they have any insight to what you feel is hard closing? I am beginning to think maybe it is you that feels it closes hard. What other rifles do you have to compare to?
Perhaps it is the cocking piece in the bolt leaving the recess it sits in when closing the bolt...? That can be a firm little 'bump.'
 
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Since you've determined that it closes hard with the stock, trigger and bases off, and with and without ammo that eliminates most of the usual suspects. Check to see if the nose of the bolt is bottoming out against the barrel and/ counter bore. Check for galling on the bolt lugs. Check to see if there is displayed metal where they black-smith the extractor rivet. Take the striker assembly out of the bolt and work it like that.
 
I brought the gun to a store that said they could check head space. They said head space was good but it was very strange that it closed so hard and should get it checked. I have compaired the bolt closing to my 5 other remington 700 and this one is a lot harder...almost impossible to close at times. I think i might just bring it by ATRS and have them look at it. Was hoping it was an easy fix.
 
Since you've determined that it closes hard with the stock, trigger and bases off, and with and without ammo that eliminates most of the usual suspects. Check to see if the nose of the bolt is bottoming out against the barrel and/ counter bore. Check for galling on the bolt lugs. Check to see if there is displayed metal where they black-smith the extractor rivet. Take the striker assembly out of the bolt and work it like that.

How would i check all of this? Starting to sound like its way above my head lol

Also the plunger ejector moves very freely...same as my other 700's
 
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