Rem 700 bolt timing issue

This has been puzzling to me as well. I'm on my 7th Remington 700 and none of them exhibited this problem. I have been using stock triggers and TriggerTech triggers. That being said, I remember a caution that was given to me when disassembling the bolt for internal cleaning. When reassembled, you have to make sure the gap underneath is as small as possible. I marked the gap with a red line in the photo. If the gap is too big, the bolt would likely fall in like in your video.

It might be worth it for you to inspect the gap. If it's too big, take the bolt and firing pin apart. Clean the whole thing while you're at it and put it back together making sure the gap is minimal. Hopefully it helps solve the problem or at least eliminate another potential cause.

IMG_20170810_172525688.jpg
 

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guntech said:
Gravel Agency said this is normal, but that doesn't seem right to me.

What is this? What do they say is normal? Is it from post 1 "if the handle is not lifted properly the lug will "lock" the bolt in"?
Click to expand...

Gravel said that the bolt behaviour in my video is normal. They said the when a Rem 700 bolt slides forward it is normal for the lugs to slide out of the raceway. The thing is no other Rem 700 I have handled does this. The lugs do not fall out of the raceways unless pressure is applied to the bolt. My action is the only one I have seen do this this far so I just don't see how it can be "normal".
 
I did get a response from Timney. He said my trigger has a long sear. He said if I tried a short sear it may fix the timing. I have absolutely no idea how this could ever be the case, but if I get it for free I'm willing to try.

As for the cocking notch. That cocking piece is very tight in that notch. There is no gap at all.


I have taken my bolt apart. About 2-3 times a year. I clean it all out and put it back together. I make sure it is spun all the way on and function test it as well. My notch looks to be the exact same as the picture posted. No obvious difference to the eye.

Looking at the picture now I wonder how crazy would it be if my cocking piece wasn't to spec... as in what is the part that seats in that notch is just slightly too long. Just another variable I guess.
 
Another update,

The gunsmith who built my gun said "this is the way commercial actions are, nothing can be done outside of replacing the action".

Fairly disheartening.
 
Your update doesn't sound right for some reason. I believe I would look elsewhere for an inspection... someone needs to see you demonstrate your 'problem' and then diagnose what's what.

Most people don't close the bolt as shown in the video in post #1. Looking at that video over and over it looks like the cocking piece has not engaged the trigger yet. Take the stock off and look at the trigger inspection hole while you push the bolt that way... the cocking piece should force the sear down to contact the trigger. You should be able to feel and see this happening. Does this same thing happen with the Remington trigger in place?

If you use the bolt handle and simply push it forward and down does a cartridge feed and chamber okay? Also you imply you need to lift the handle properly for the bolt to cycle correctly. So lift the bolt firmly...?
 
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So a couple answers to your questions. Yes rounds cycle from a magazine with no issues. Do not have extraction problems.

I'll try to explain the bolt thing and yes I know I'm not wording it well.

So with most Rem 700's this is what I have seen. Imagine the bolt is in battery, fully closed in the action. Now when you lift the handle it begins to ####. When the cocking piece locks into the bolt notch the bolt is fully cocked. Usually at this time the bolt lugs are in the raceway. If the bolt is pulled rearward it will easily follow the raceway.

With my bolt when it is fully cocked upon lifting the bolt lugs are NOT in the raceway. The bolt needs to be lifted further and lined up with the raceway. If the lugs are not lined correctly the bolt lugs with not smoothly entered the raceway. So what I mean is if the bolt is not lifted at the perfect height it will be rough when the lugs enter the raceway. Basically the have to get muscled in. That's really the best way I can explain it.

In the video at the end you can see the bolts natural place of rest when pushed forward. If I pull straight back on the bolt it will not move. The lugs prevent the rearward motion because they have partially engaged the locking cams. Other actions when the bolt is slide forward they can be pulled back with a straight motion because the lugs have not left the raceway.

I've never had a Remington trigger so regrettably I can not compare. I have known nothing else. This week though I'm going to try and find a Rem bolt to st least slide into my action I feel that is the next step.

3 gunsmiths here have told me this is normal, but they don't inspect anything. I just show them what it does they don't even touch my gun. Then a few people here say it's not normal, so I just am more confused than when I started.
 
I don't think it is normal...

Remove the firing pin assembly and then work the bolt... do the lugs still hangup?

If it works fine without the firing pin assembly in place, then I would think the indexing of the notch needs to be looked at... it's like the notch is not in the correct place and holding the shroud in the wrong place...

just another guess at this point.
 
Jeff_C said:
https://i.imgur.com/kwQ6CVD.jpg

I attached an image of my bolt with the shroud removed. The notch does not appear centred. When the shroud is on the cocking piece it is visibly angled to the right. Does this support your theory?
Click to expand...

It kind of does... here is a pic of mine with the lugs in the race way. (Altered for ease of closing so it is a narrower notch)

You will have to move your notch carefully until the shroud holds the lugs in the raceway indexed correctly.

cocking_piece_notch.jpg
 
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This is definitely out of my realm. I do not know how to move the notch over because to me that will just make it bigger. I think to make it work it would have to be cut down and over to reindex the cocking piece in the center. But I think that is the answer. If it was cut slightly left the cocking piece would be centered. If it was cut slightly deeper the cocking piece would index the sear slightly sooner preventing the lugs from exiting the raceway. I just don't have precise enough tools to accomplish this. Knowing the issue though maybe I can find someone to confirm and do the work. Thanks for your help.
 
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