rem 700: Got some questions for ya!

Goose25

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I recently purchased a NIB remington 700 sps varmint. It has a 26" heavy barrel and is chambered in .243 win. After my initial inspection and a trip to the range I got a couple questions for ya folks!

1.To sight it in and for my barrel break-in I was shooting 80gr win PSP using IMR4350 in a Norma case(browning head stamp). I would clean after every shot for the first 10, then every 3 shots for the following 20...etc, I noticed during ever cleaning, my barrel was excessively dirty. What's the cause? powder? barrel length? (forgot to mention, I did a thorough cleaning before my trip to the range).

2. Upon closer inspection I noticed the barrel is not completely free floated. It comes in contact with the stock about 0.5-0.75" from the tip of the stock. I have plans to upgrade the stock in the near future, so I'm not looking to do a complete bedding job... Can I simply remove the excess plastic (grind barrel channel) to free float the barrel without adding any extra support?

3. I experienced several FTF's (failure to feed). I would close the bolt and the round (new unfired norma brass) would not chamber. I also noticed I was getting small brass shavings on the bolt face and signs of friction between the bottom of the bolt and rounds in the mag. any suggestions?
here's a pic:
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IMG_0012.jpg




Thanks!
 
How many rounds did you fire? I fired 40 rounds from my new LTR a few weeks ago, and there was far less brass left on the bolt face, and none evident on the bolt shaft (might not be the right term).
 
yes, you can float the barrel the way you described.

As for the tight chambering..try sizing your cases down a bit more....and check the depth of your seated primers...seems like you have more brass on the bolt from the primer than from the case.........you may be seating the primers when chambering.
 
Sounds like if you reload that you are not getting a FULL sizing of the brass. It would seem the shoulders are not getting done right. perhaps adjusting the dies would help. The rubbing on the bolt face is usually as a result of improper sizing. Do have a look at the fired caases for excessive primer flow. measure the OAL of the case and make sure it is withion spec, and trim tooproper length as required. Chamfer the case mouth inner and outer, then load a few more. Once i changed my RCBS dies over to Dillons, I never had another size problem
 
I'm going to guess that you didn't fully resize the new brass?

TOTALLY speculating here, but if there's a burr in the chamber, it might catch the brass and not allow it to turn at all going in, thus stopping it from fully chambering, and causing tons of friction when turning the bolt.

Just thinking out loud, but a rough bore could cause lots of fouling too, but you didn't say if it was bad copper fouling, or bad carbon fouling...
 
3. I experienced several FTF's (failure to feed). I would close the bolt and the round (new unfired norma brass) would not chamber. I also noticed I was getting small brass shavings on the bolt face and signs of friction between the bottom of the bolt and rounds in the mag. any suggestions?
As mentioned, new brass should be full length re-sized the first time through. Neck sizing after that, for that rifle only. If the brass is longer than the chamber it will be hard to chamber as well as bind on the bolt face.



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How many rounds did you fire?

pics were taken after 60 rounds.

I'm going to guess that you didn't fully resize the new brass?

TOTALLY speculating here, but if there's a burr in the chamber, it might catch the brass and not allow it to turn at all going in, thus stopping it from fully chambering, and causing tons of friction when turning the bolt.

Just thinking out loud, but a rough bore could cause lots of fouling too, but you didn't say if it was bad copper fouling, or bad carbon fouling...

I FL sized my new brass, I recall checking and making sure my primers were seated properly... But I will double check. Chambering was not excessively tight.

bad carbon fouling.

GTG, my bear sausages are on the stove..... mmmmmm, bear sausages for breakfast:)
 
Most rifles will have a contact point on the stock as mentioned since it considerably improves the strength of the unit assembly, the firing consistancy can also be improved on light barrels, though that is a pre- glass bedding and synthetic stock technical perspective, and not really relevant to heavy barrels.

If you want to rout and bed your action area, then the forend support can be an asset since you can take out one of the two action bolt areas at a time without affecting the level of the action. Makes bedding foolproof even after significant clearance routing. Then as a final step you can clearance the barrel.
 
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