Use your sharpie marker and colour the shoulder of the case. If it rubs the the marker off the shoulder you are not resizing it enough, the shoulder needs to be bumper back a couple thousands of an inch. Do you have a small amount of bolt grease on the back of your lugs and is the lug recess in the action free of dirt and grime?
rem 700 police bolt hard to close?
- Thread starter Kryogen
- Start date
I will, but I used an RCBS small base die to resize (bought it specifically for this, another 40$ wasted....) doesnt make the cases easier to load so I am starting to think that cartridge size is not the issue.
Some load easier, some load harder, but none load "easily".
Rifle is clean.
An easy way to check that would be to chamber a case, push the handle down then without extracting the case lift the handle up then back down again. If the bolt handle goes down easy the second time it could be the extractor binding.While your inspecting the extractor push the ejector down and see if it goes down smoothly past the bolt face. Another thing, your small base die may not make the headspace shorter all it does is resize the brass more at the case head. I would do as others have suggested and take a black sharpie and color the neck and shoulder of the case so you can see where it's tight if it is a tight chamber.
Kryogen,
Lots of people on here have made suggestions, not just by guess work but in most cases "Been there, done that" experience.
First step is to colour the shoulder of the case with a sharpie marker, if it rubs off, you are not resizing (bumping the shoulder) enough regardless of the type of die you are using. Make sure your bolt lugs have grease on the back of them and the bolt recess in the action is clean. If this isn't the problem lossen the bedding screws and seeing if the chambering problem is still there. The next step would be to remove the scope bases and see if the chambering problem is still there.
Lots of people on here have made suggestions, not just by guess work but in most cases "Been there, done that" experience.
First step is to colour the shoulder of the case with a sharpie marker, if it rubs off, you are not resizing (bumping the shoulder) enough regardless of the type of die you are using. Make sure your bolt lugs have grease on the back of them and the bolt recess in the action is clean. If this isn't the problem lossen the bedding screws and seeing if the chambering problem is still there. The next step would be to remove the scope bases and see if the chambering problem is still there.
Ok maynard, I am going in the garage now.... will report later tonight.
Having one insane week at work, like last week, and the other week before, and I work 6 days a week.... 60-70 hours a week.
I just didnt have any time to try anything this week.
Having one insane week at work, like last week, and the other week before, and I work 6 days a week.... 60-70 hours a week.
I just didnt have any time to try anything this week.
Ok:
Removed the scope and base. Screws didnt interfere.
There is only one screw that could interfere with the chamber, and it looks like remington jammed a small screw at the bottom of it to "prevent" base screws from screwing in.
Checked front action screw, it's well inside the bolt recess, not even close to interfering (stock stock and bolts).
So it's not the base or action screws.
Tried factory remington core lock ammo, it works better than my 1f brass. It still does not "freely" close like my savage used to do, though, or like the bolt does when there is no case.
It puts some "presure" on the bolt. Still, it closes, but you feel that the bolt pushes against the case.
Should the bolt freely close with a factory case in in? or should there be some presure?
Did the black marker. It rubbed off a "bit". My 1f norma brass is noticeably harder to close the bolt on. (even though it will go inside the chamber and drop off the chamber quite easily. It's really like headspace is the issue because of a case that would have a shoulder a tad too long?
Taking measurements with a caliper, I can't see a difference in headspace, so it's probably just a few thousands?
What should I do, bring the small base rcbs die to a machine shop and have them remove 5 thousands off it, and then adjust it for proper shoulder bumping? I paid 40$ for that die do I would like to use it to salvage my 200 unusable brass.
http://i1214.photobucket.com/albums/cc483/kryogen69/cgn/brass2.jpg
1f case on the right, factory rem ammo left.
Shoulder definitely rubs a bit
When I put marker on the bottom of the case, it gets rubbed off alot (because bolt "scrubs" it rotating against it with presure).
Any suggestions?
Thanks
Removed the scope and base. Screws didnt interfere.
There is only one screw that could interfere with the chamber, and it looks like remington jammed a small screw at the bottom of it to "prevent" base screws from screwing in.
Checked front action screw, it's well inside the bolt recess, not even close to interfering (stock stock and bolts).
So it's not the base or action screws.
Tried factory remington core lock ammo, it works better than my 1f brass. It still does not "freely" close like my savage used to do, though, or like the bolt does when there is no case.
It puts some "presure" on the bolt. Still, it closes, but you feel that the bolt pushes against the case.
Should the bolt freely close with a factory case in in? or should there be some presure?
Did the black marker. It rubbed off a "bit". My 1f norma brass is noticeably harder to close the bolt on. (even though it will go inside the chamber and drop off the chamber quite easily. It's really like headspace is the issue because of a case that would have a shoulder a tad too long?
Taking measurements with a caliper, I can't see a difference in headspace, so it's probably just a few thousands?
What should I do, bring the small base rcbs die to a machine shop and have them remove 5 thousands off it, and then adjust it for proper shoulder bumping? I paid 40$ for that die do I would like to use it to salvage my 200 unusable brass.
http://i1214.photobucket.com/albums/cc483/kryogen69/cgn/brass2.jpg
1f case on the right, factory rem ammo left.
Shoulder definitely rubs a bit
When I put marker on the bottom of the case, it gets rubbed off alot (because bolt "scrubs" it rotating against it with presure).
Any suggestions?
Thanks
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When the bolt closes, there usually is a little bit of resistance 'cause the firing pin spring is being compressed. If should have as much resistance if not a hair more than closing the bolt on an empty chamber. If you know how to remove the firing pin assembly, the only resistance you will feel on closing the bolt, will be that of the chambered case. If even factory rounds are feeling tight, you might want to have a gunsmith look at it or send her back for inspection.
It's cheaper to take some off the top of your shell plate than to mess with the die. From what I've read, the LEE dies are close to that of the RCBS SB dies.
It's cheaper to take some off the top of your shell plate than to mess with the die. From what I've read, the LEE dies are close to that of the RCBS SB dies.
I used a LEE, and then an RCBS small base die.
rcbs is tighter a bit.
I have no shellplate, I have a forster co-ax that has "jaws". I am not grinding jaws.
So whats the solution, have the die machined 10 thousands shorter, and tighten until the cases fit?
I already have an rcbs small base, and a lee die. I am not really willing to buy another damn die, so do I just get 10 thousands machined off the base, and then adjust to bump 2 thousands?
rcbs is tighter a bit.
I have no shellplate, I have a forster co-ax that has "jaws". I am not grinding jaws.
So whats the solution, have the die machined 10 thousands shorter, and tighten until the cases fit?
I already have an rcbs small base, and a lee die. I am not really willing to buy another damn die, so do I just get 10 thousands machined off the base, and then adjust to bump 2 thousands?
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That little bit of rubbing on the shoulder is your problem. You are bumping the shoulder back with the force of closing the bolt. This might only be .0005-.0015" out of spec. If your die will not adjust down anymore, grinding .005" off the bottom of the resizing might help.
Get one of these http://www.sinclairintl.com/reloadi...-308-winchester-sku749006317-33476-69685.aspx
This way you will know once you set your dies up exactly how much you are bumping the shoulder back and you are taking the guess work out of it.
Edit to add, your once fired Norma brass is still good and you really didn't need the SB die.
Get one of these http://www.sinclairintl.com/reloadi...-308-winchester-sku749006317-33476-69685.aspx
This way you will know once you set your dies up exactly how much you are bumping the shoulder back and you are taking the guess work out of it.
Edit to add, your once fired Norma brass is still good and you really didn't need the SB die.
Ok thanks maynard, will try.
I think that I will place my die in my drill press holding by the decapper pin, and then rotate against oiled sandpaper to remove 5 thousands. And then see.
I'll get one of those gauges I guess.
Technically, once they are bumped enough, I can just neck resize using the lee die?
I think that I will place my die in my drill press holding by the decapper pin, and then rotate against oiled sandpaper to remove 5 thousands. And then see.
I'll get one of those gauges I guess.
Technically, once they are bumped enough, I can just neck resize using the lee die?
turbo_bird
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Kamloops, BC
Shell holders are a lot cheaper than dies, why not try modifying a shell holder instead? Sort of a poor-mans Redding competition shell holder set.
Kristian
Nevermind, I missed the part about no shell holders.
Kristian
Nevermind, I missed the part about no shell holders.
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Ardent
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
I'd suggest going more than 5 thou on the die, if you're going to the effort I'd take more off to make sure the problem's solved, even 30 thou+ off the bottom of the die won't change its resizing function at all and will allow a lot more wiggle room. Dies are really hard steel, I'd suggest grinding rather than sanding as sanding would take a very long time, clean up with wet sandpaper as a finish.
SB dies will resize the brass down to min specs (good for using in a semi) but it does over-work the brass. If you use your Lee Die to just neck size after bumping the shoulder back, you will have to bump that shoulder back again after 3-4 firings. I use a Redding Type "S" die with a bushing that bumps the shoulder back .002. One action that I used is a CG Millennium, it is a 4 lug design similar to the RPA action. They lock up like a vault be have very little in the way of camming action like a 2 lug Remington. When I was running the Millennium and a 40X at the same time (both chambers were cut with the same reamer) I had to resize my brass to fit the Millennium and it would fit and shoot just fine out of the 40X. If I tried to use necksized brass out of the 40X it would not chamber in the Millennium.
