Remington 700 free-floating barrel problem? PICS
- Thread starter mlebler
- Start date
Free floating the barrels is not the be all, end all, of rifle accuracy. In the decade of the 1950s, when competetive shooting was in it's hay-day and the great multitudes were shooting, instead of golfing, much was written about barrel bedding. One could go to the newstand and select half a dozen magazines devoted entirely, or at least partly, to shooting and hunting and each had a shooting editor who experimented with such things.
It was generally agreed that barrels should have pressure that pushes them up, for best accuracy. They even agreed that about six pounds of pressure was right for the average sporting weight barrel. In our box of shooting equipment was a spring scale with a hook to fit over the barrel. We would stand the rifle upright, hold it by the stock, hook the spring over the barrel and see how much pressure was required to spring the barrel away from it's pressure point. As stated, about six pounds was recommended, and that has usually worked for me.
It was generally agreed that barrels should have pressure that pushes them up, for best accuracy. They even agreed that about six pounds of pressure was right for the average sporting weight barrel. In our box of shooting equipment was a spring scale with a hook to fit over the barrel. We would stand the rifle upright, hold it by the stock, hook the spring over the barrel and see how much pressure was required to spring the barrel away from it's pressure point. As stated, about six pounds was recommended, and that has usually worked for me.
Pressure on barrels is tricky. Like H4831 says, some rifles are intended to have a specific amount of pressure. BUT, the pressure must be applied correctly. It appears the stock on your rifle would push the barrel to the side, which is no good.
HOWEVER, it will only manifest itself as a problem, as the barrel heats.
BOTTOMLINE, your brother made a crappy first shot. If the first shot had been well placed you would not be looking for the bear.
HOWEVER, it will only manifest itself as a problem, as the barrel heats.
BOTTOMLINE, your brother made a crappy first shot. If the first shot had been well placed you would not be looking for the bear.
Sounds like your rifle has a problem with that much offset in the barrel channel. Flyers may also indicate that the recoil lug is not bedded. As others have stated, a pressure point at the forend is typical of rifles with pencil thin barrels (M70 featherweight comes to mind). Removing a pressure point is not terminal either, it can be put back. I'd might also suggest before you go hogging wood outta the channel that you remove the action and bed it using some old credit cards (or the wife's current ones 
). This should lift the action and barrel away from contact points, see how it shoots then.
Either way, you have to dismantle it and investigate. If that rifle means anything to you and you don't feel comfortable making mods, then send it to a good gunsmith.
Good luck.
). This should lift the action and barrel away from contact points, see how it shoots then.Either way, you have to dismantle it and investigate. If that rifle means anything to you and you don't feel comfortable making mods, then send it to a good gunsmith.
Good luck.
There's now way that bbl heated up enough with one shot to cause your problems. You either have a serious bedding issue or maybe even loose scope mounts. As for the pressure point, they usually work very well, as long as the rest is in good order.
You need to take the rifle out of the stock and clean the bedding area of all dirt and oil. Then make sure your action screws are torqued properly.
Next, take off the scope and make sure the base screws are torqued properly. Take the scope out of the rings and clean them. Pit the rings back on the rifle, makeing sure the scres are tight again. Now put the scope back in the rings, makeing sure the reticles are as close to vertical. Then off course make sure the ring screws are tight.
Now, how often do you shoot? When was the last time you cleaned the copper fouling from your bore? After about 25 shots, most, not all rifles will build up enough copper fouling in the bore to really effect accuracy.
Once all of these issues have been addressed, then you can start looking at glass bedding and barrel free floating issues. A good glass bedding job is never a mistake, though not always effective.
bearhunter
You need to take the rifle out of the stock and clean the bedding area of all dirt and oil. Then make sure your action screws are torqued properly.
Next, take off the scope and make sure the base screws are torqued properly. Take the scope out of the rings and clean them. Pit the rings back on the rifle, makeing sure the scres are tight again. Now put the scope back in the rings, makeing sure the reticles are as close to vertical. Then off course make sure the ring screws are tight.
Now, how often do you shoot? When was the last time you cleaned the copper fouling from your bore? After about 25 shots, most, not all rifles will build up enough copper fouling in the bore to really effect accuracy.
Once all of these issues have been addressed, then you can start looking at glass bedding and barrel free floating issues. A good glass bedding job is never a mistake, though not always effective.
bearhunter
- Location
- Saskatchewan
Not offence intended... but why would you go hunting with a rifle that you knew was inconsistant?
I would try and borrow another rifle for the rest of this hunt and try and fix that rifle later just in case something gets screwed up and then you have no rifle.
I would try and borrow another rifle for the rest of this hunt and try and fix that rifle later just in case something gets screwed up and then you have no rifle.
- Location
- Yellowknife, NWT
Is the 700 Mountain rifle prone to such warpage? I handled one at LeBaron in Ottawa that had a warped forestock like the one in the photo. Odd.
bedding the 700
if memory serves me correctly , the model 700 remingtons were pillar bedded ? however the problem you are describing should be tested at the range , from the bench . using the same ammo , check mounts on the scope , check the bases , rings , make sure everything is tight . I would start at 50 yards , see and record what is happening . sometimes just channelling out the forearms with some sandpaper will releive stress , but it sounds to me that you may have to glass bed the action ( work better done by a good gunsmith ) make sure all the screws on the action are tight .these rifles are capable of great accurrcy , if the solution is not a simple one , take it to the gunsmith ....LOL....Joe
if memory serves me correctly , the model 700 remingtons were pillar bedded ? however the problem you are describing should be tested at the range , from the bench . using the same ammo , check mounts on the scope , check the bases , rings , make sure everything is tight . I would start at 50 yards , see and record what is happening . sometimes just channelling out the forearms with some sandpaper will releive stress , but it sounds to me that you may have to glass bed the action ( work better done by a good gunsmith ) make sure all the screws on the action are tight .these rifles are capable of great accurrcy , if the solution is not a simple one , take it to the gunsmith ....LOL....Joe
OK, so after I free-float this barrel what do you guys recommend installing under the barrel to provide some upwards pressure.....I heard credit cards, anything els? Also, does anyone out there know the correct torque to use on the two receiver screws on Remington 700's?????
- Location
- Ft. Mac. Alberta
I have personally fixed four mountain rifles by fully floating them, but I ALSO galss bedded the actions at the same time.
One would be like yours, the next shot it would be touching the other side!
Two shots with a rifle like yours can put the bullets in different places because the barrel is not coming to rest on the stock the same way each time.
Cat
