Remington 74/742/7400 thoughts.

oneone

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So I've been seeing a few of these for sale lately, and am wondering what they're like. Does anyone here have one, which one? I found a site that seems to explain most of the models:

http://ww w.wisnersinc.com/additional_info/Remington_7407427400.htm

Anyone have anything to add to that?

Are they a reliable gun? Accurate? I wouldn't want to buy one over something like an SVT40 etc if they're not all they're cracked up to be. I haven't heard anything about them, so I'm kind of looking "blindly" into them. Thanks for any advice/opinions.
 
There are several in my deer camp. You will hear those guns referred to on this board as Remington "Jamo-o-matics". My observation is that those fellows who know the importance of proper cleaning & preventive maintenance have no issues with their Remington semi-autos. On the other hand, those fellows who take the gun out once a year for deer hunting always seem to be the ones with jamming problems.

The only time I saw a guy who practices proper maintenance have a problem was because one of the models (I forget which one) can be prone to chipping (chatter marks) that develop over time along the rail that is machined into the inside of the receiver. The gun was a very well-used deer & moose getter.
 
I have two 7400 one in 308 and one in 3006. I am a 7600 pump guy but the days I don't feel like getting kicked I take a 7400. Been using them since probally 1987 and never had a jam. The 3006 I call my one bullet one deer gun. She has taken about 14 deer with 14 shots.
I clean them after every trip out or if I shoot them.
 
rem auto

Just make sure you do not play with the front swivel screw,its will afect the accuracy of the rifle....if it does loosen up and you retighten it make sure you take a few shots to check the zero...this happened to my brothers rifle while out hunting,it got loose and he retightened it,It was out!! only downfall we noticed!!
 
The Rem 74, 740, 7400, etc are very good guns. They are perfect as a bush gun for large game, and accurate enough for your typical bush shots of about 50 yards and under, but still accurate enough for a 100 yard shot if needed. 180 grain soft point ammo (silver tips) function through these guns nicely, and are a good round on large game.

The main problem with these guns is the chamber. You must clean the chamber using a chamber brush at the end of a day of shooting at the range, or when you get back home from hunting. Scrub it with the chamber brush, and then apply a light coat of gun oil directly to the walls of the chamber using a cleaning mop or some cleaning patches. If you don't do this, the chamber walls will start to rust over the next few weeks, and then pitt, and this is one of the reasons these guns jam. The jam is caused when the brass cartridge casing expands when fired, and forms into the rust and pitts on the walls of the chamber. This causes the empty brass casing to get stuck in the chamber enough that the extractor is unable to remove it from the chamber.

The other reason these guns jam is because of too much oil in the chamber, and in the action parts located under the forend (this goes for all semi-autos). Too much oil turns into dirty, sticky, carbon upon the first shot, because of the flame and heat from the round being fired. Carbon mixes into the working parts and causes them to not function smoothly, especially if you're hunting in cold tempurtures.

Oil is good on these parts after you're done shooting at the range for the day, or when the hunting season is over, and your rifle is going back into the safe. However, you need to remove as much oil as you can from the chamber and bore, and from all the action parts located under the forend a day before you start your next hunting trip. Just leave about 2 drops of fresh gun oil on the coil spring, and always best to make a test shot at your gun range before starting the big game season just to make sure all is working good and the sights are true.

So, if your buying a used Rem 74, 740, 7400 etc the first thing you want to do is lock the bolt back (mag must be inside) and look at the chamber walls with a strong flash light. If you see a lot of red specks of rust on the walls, and/or dark spotting (pitts), then I would not buy it. All though, It can be fixed by a proffesional gunsmith, but if the pitts are too deep, then it will need a new barrel at a cost of a few hundred bucks by the time the new barrel is bought, fitted, and installed.

I hope this info helps.

All the best.
 
I have a 7400 in .243 Win and haven't had a problem with it. It is a pita to take apart and clean but I prefer to do it this way to make sure it is done right. I like 243's and would have liked a carbine but these rifles in this caliber are only made in the longer barrel configuration.
 
Although I am a dedicated Bolt action fan, many years ago I did have an original M740 Remington in 30-06. I shot a fair bit of game with it, and never had any issues with it. I kept it clean {as mentioned, keep the chamber clean}
It was capable of shooting groups of around 1½" at 100, so was plenty accurate for deer, moose and bear at normal hunting ranges. They are not a reloader's dream, though, and it is a good idea to keep your ammo clean as well. This assures positive functioning.
The naysayers are those who failed to clean properly or else, they never actually owned one and are going by hearsay. Regards, Eagleye.
 
My uncle in Quebec has one. I remember admiring it in 1967 so it is one of the 1960s models.

He said it wouldn't cycle in sub-zero temperatures.

I doubt if he cleaned it much but probably oiled it. It probably had too much oil in the action and that's what froze up.

I wonder what he wants to do with it. He must be at least 80 now ....
 
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