Luckily I have 14 more extractors and rivets for them lol I also have a few more firing pin assemblies as well I can show you pictures of?
Remington 788 Bolts
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Luckily I have 14 more extractors and rivets for them lol I also have a few more firing pin assemblies as well I can show you pictures of?
I don't think firing pin assemblies changed when the bolt sleeve thread diameters changed.
Those extractor sets will sell well.
A little anvil jig is necessary to support the rivet head when riveting in the extractor. I made mine from a piece of 1/2" drill rod.
The other 788 part for which there is demand is the bolt stop. These got regularly sheared off.
Those extractor sets will sell well.
A little anvil jig is necessary to support the rivet head when riveting in the extractor. I made mine from a piece of 1/2" drill rod.
The other 788 part for which there is demand is the bolt stop. These got regularly sheared off.
https://files.catbox.moe/aj9ey8.jpg
These were stored in paper envelopes that were disintegrating so I move them to these poly envelopes and copied exactly what my late father in law had written on those envelopes
These were stored in paper envelopes that were disintegrating so I move them to these poly envelopes and copied exactly what my late father in law had written on those envelopes
Oh thats a great idea, 1/2" drill rod I was kinda thinking that I could use. Thanks!
I reduced the diameter back from the end, leaving a ring, then removed most of the ring, leaving a projecting lip. The jig is clamped in the vise, the extractor and rivet are assembled, and then the lip supports the rivet head. The end of the jig is sized so that it can be used with either small, medium or large bolt faces. Once the riveting is complete, dress the surface smooth.
It helps to get it right the first time....
Brownells sells (sold?) a jig.
Riveted extractors were used in some 700s, 788s, 740/2s, 760s.
It helps to get it right the first time....
Brownells sells (sold?) a jig.
Riveted extractors were used in some 700s, 788s, 740/2s, 760s.
The threads definitely changed I have two 788 firing pin assemblies that will not thread I to any of my 788 bolt bodies its strange the size definitely changed. Do you happen to have a picture of the drill rod you used?
Thanks!
I do understand headspace. I certainly don't have anywhere near the experience that you do, but from what I understand setting the barrel back is the standard way to fix bad headspace? Please correct me if I'm wrong.
I'm was just thinking, I've heard talk about changing bolt heads on Lee Enfields to deal with bad headspace - apparently they're numbered based on size from what I've read? - so I was thinking maybe there is something similar going on here. Obviously not though.
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Ok I guess I need to make something like this, you were saying that it's possible to buy something?
Fiddly job. Assemble, set up on anvil without anything shifting. Use a small hammer, many light blows to upset the rivet. Remington rivets are very malleable and upset very nicely. Once firmly riveted, file flush.
Before riveting, the extractor has to be correctly shaped. Check how it fits when assembled but before riveting. If the extractor has too much curve it will project too far into the boltface counterbore; too little curve and the extractor won't grab the rim firmly.
Should the extractor not be set properly, the rivet can be removed, the extractor adjusted and re-riveted. To remove the rivet, drill the upset end out of its recess and use a tiny punch to drive it out.
Before riveting, the extractor has to be correctly shaped. Check how it fits when assembled but before riveting. If the extractor has too much curve it will project too far into the boltface counterbore; too little curve and the extractor won't grab the rim firmly.
Should the extractor not be set properly, the rivet can be removed, the extractor adjusted and re-riveted. To remove the rivet, drill the upset end out of its recess and use a tiny punch to drive it out.
