Remington 870 forend trim or shim ?

FatCatsDad

FatCatsDad

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I have a TAC 14 with the nicest highest grade Wing master wood I've ever seen.

I recently picked up a MESA Tactical 4 shot side saddle.

Test fitting showed the forend would not slide back enough to allow the gun to operate properly.
Instead of trimming a beautiful piece of vintage wood, would it be possible to cut a ¼" spacer and install it where the red line is in this picture ?.

My thought is that it effectively moves the forend forward enough to allow for proper cycling.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

 
The spacer idea will work if there are lots of threads still. You need a lot of thread engagement when slamming the forend ahead... You may have to inlet the front nut deeper...

Nice wood and tactical don't really go together though...
 
I would personally not reduce the available locking thread turns on your forend.

I would either abandon the side saddle together because it makes your gun unbalanced...or buy a Velcro shot card which can be positioned exactly where you want on the side of the receiver to avoid contact with the forend.
 
OP,
Install a synthetic Corn Cob fore end on your TAC14....& run it like you stole it!!

Both of my TAC 14 12ga & 20ga have the synthetic Corn Cob fore ends that came w/ MagPul's.

Those fore ends w/ the Tails on each side are finger/hand pinching useless bling.
 
Nice wood stock set, I have the same forend sets installed and your only choice will be to cut a notch out of the forend on the saddle side or use a Velcro shell card and cut it back to a 5 or 4 shell card from a 6 so it clears the forend. Which is easy to do with the Velcro shell cards, I have a couple 4 cards I cut.

You could find a walnut police corncob style forend but it won’t ever properly match the existing buttstock, cutting the existing forend would be a shame. Making a spacer and moving it forward likely won’t allow enough thread engagement on the forend assembly and I’m guessing it could hit the mag tube nut

I cut the Velcro cards with a hot knife blade, put the knife handle in a vise and heat the blade with a propane torch till it’s good and hot. Holding the card you just push it into the hot blade and it melts through, it seals the end as it melts. I can’t fit anything longer than a 4 shell card behind the ejection port so I cut them.

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I had the mesa. Didn’t hold the shells worth a damn. I found side saddles a pain in general and went belt mounted.
 
Butcherbill said:
Can’t agree with that, look at all the wood stocked police riot models and trench guns out there. Old school tactical definitely applies to shotguns for lots of us.
Click to expand...

Yes.. but he stated "the nicest highest grade Wing master wood I've ever seen" without posting a picture... posting a picture later in the thread... I expected to see highly figured walnut as on higher grade trap or skeet guns... which really aren't good in a tactical situation. Instead it was plain walnut with a high gloss finish.
 
guntech said:
Yes.. but he stated "the nicest highest grade Wing master wood I've ever seen" without posting a picture... posting a picture later in the thread... I expected to see highly figured walnut as on higher grade trap or skeet guns... which really aren't good in a tactical situation. Instead it was plain walnut with a high gloss finish.
Click to expand...

:rolleyes:
 
Bizarre that they mount the 4rds further forward than their larger side saddles. The whole point of a 4rd side saddle was for those that use the longer forends. I was going to suggest the TacStar 4rd side saddle but it looks like they’ve moved it further forward as well but still haven’t updated the description, still claiming that it works without modification on longer forends.
 
Dump the solid mounted side saddle. Nobody uses those anymore. The cheap and cheerful soft velcro models are way better option and don't require any mods too the gun.
 
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