Remington M700 Bottom Metal

I replaced my Rem's stock with one from HS Precision, and had the rifle reblued. Had the original bottom metal anodized, but just didn't match the rest of the gun, pretty much a waste of money. Ordered up a Williams direct from the company. No issues having it shipped up here, albeit this was about 5 years ago.

In a word, excellent! Actually made to fit the HS stock. Huge improvement over the original, vastly superior quality. Final finishing touch on a very sharp looking (and acutely accurate) rifle.



 
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SuperCub said:
I"ve never had a problem with a factory 700 BDL bottom. Why replace it?
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It's an absolute piece of junk. But you are right. It's an absolute miracle that more of them don't fall apart. But that is likely indicative of house to truck to stand. Stand to truck to house. Repeat.
 
I have 2 sps, one bottom metal is nice.. smooth anodized finish, similar type cast aluminum to a Husqvarna 1600.
The other has a crinkle paint finish, and seems to be made of paper mache.
 
My new Williams bottom metal arrived today.

Just fit it into the stock.

It's just beautiful, compared the factory piece, that is cheap paint on pot metal...

The release for the floor plate, is different from the Remington factory unit, but functions perfectly (of course) and is 'stylish' for sure.








 
That's called an "Oberndorf" release, considered the best design by some because it virtually eliminates an accidental release of the floor plate and landing one's ammo on the ground...sometimes as a most disadvantageous moment.
 
sir_springer said:
That's called an "Oberndorf" release, considered the best design by some because it virtually eliminates an accidental release of the floor plate and landing one's ammo on the ground...sometimes as a most disadvantageous moment.
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This isn't always the case, in fact Williams has adjusted their latch over the years as they have had problems with them coming open under recoil. Here is an Echols unit and their explanation and demonstration of proper latch geometry.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4yo6IkplgqU

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FGKLGZ0Z2Zs
 
chuck nelson said:
It's an absolute piece of junk. But you are right. It's an absolute miracle that more of them don't fall apart. But that is likely indicative of house to truck to stand. Stand to truck to house. Repeat.
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I must take exception with this assumption CN.......I have hunted as hard as anyone, using 700 Rems with factory bottom metal and I have never broken a trigger guard or had any grief what so ever with the factory floor plate. It's light, it works, and it never pops open of it's own accord. Nor have I ever had one fall apart.
I put a PT&G Oberndorf style one on my Rem 700 375 H&H in order to add some weight, and they definitely do look classy, but it doesn't function any better than the factory. I find the Rem 700 bottom metal much better and quieter than the Ruger floor plates, they wobble all over hell and are always loose and clicking and rattling. I have drilled and tapped at least 1/2 dozen just ahead of the trigger bow latch, and put a set screw in to take up the slack and stop them from slapping about and rattling.
 
c-fbmi, all of my other M700's also have the aluminum floor plate. I've never had an issue with any of them. I've also never had the floor plate rattle, break or pop open.

The only reason I replaced the one on this M700 SPS was I didn't like the crinkle texture paint they slapped on it... none of the other M700's I own have that crinkle texture paint job.
 
c-fbmi said:
I must take exception with this assumption CN.......I have hunted as hard as anyone, using 700 Rems with factory bottom metal and I have never broken a trigger guard or had any grief what so ever with the factory floor plate. It's light, it works, and it never pops open of it's own accord. Nor have I ever had one fall apart.
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That post mirrors my experience as well. I need a bottom for a 280 project and will stick with factory.
 
Just because something "works" doesn't mean there is no room for improvement - even if that improvement is more aesthetic than anything else. How much deader will a deer be if shot with a Stevens 200 vs a Sauer 202? I like the feeling and look of quality workmanship. It pleases me.
 
Demonical, what was the cost to your door for the update if you don't mind me asking?

I'm playing with a SPS Stainless that has what I think is a plastic floor plate which I would like to update.

So far I've bedded my Stainless SPS 30-06 into a Bell and Carlson Alaski TI stock, free floated the barrel, and installed a Trigger Tech trigger. I'm liking the results so far but not crazy about the floor plate.
 
chuck nelson said:
This isn't always the case, in fact Williams has adjusted their latch over the years as they have had problems with them coming open under recoil. Here is an Echols unit and their explanation and demonstration of proper latch geometry.
Click to expand...

I think the idea of a spring is to create a bit of resistance in the event of an unintentional nudge. Placed inside the guard goes a long way to prevent this, too. My Williams requires some pressure to get it to release. On my Vanguard the release is on the leading exterior surface of the trigger guard, and while it's not happened to me yet, I'd bet I wouldn't be the first to have the magazine empty with a bump or misstep in handling. Seems whenever one hears a story about such an occurrence, it's usually at the worst possible time when things get exciting, and hands get to fumbling a tad. :)
 
hawk-i said:
Demonical, what was the cost to your door for the update if you don't mind me asking?

I'm playing with a SPS Stainless that has what I think is a plastic floor plate which I would like to update.

So far I've bedded my Stainless SPS 30-06 into a Bell and Carlson Alaski TI stock, free floated the barrel, and installed a Trigger Tech trigger. I'm liking the results so far but not crazy about the floor plate.
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$308.28Cdn, including taxes & shipping.
 
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