Remington style action wrench and barrel vise
- Thread starter Fore300
- Start date
Contact xtremegunshootingcenter.com in WPG I got mine from them
It depends on how much of what you want to do... a few switch barrel changes or some serious removals...
Brownell's in the US can supply.
Or ... barrel vises are easily machined from 2 inch bar stock.
I faced mine off (on an 11 inch lathe) so it is 1.5 inches 'thick' and the hole is 1.5 inches.
...and a clamp wrench
But a spade wrench is more popular for 700 and Savage actions...
I made this from a truck axle.
Often a Savage action will require a barrel vise, and action wrench and a nut wrench.
Brownell's in the US can supply.
Or ... barrel vises are easily machined from 2 inch bar stock.
I faced mine off (on an 11 inch lathe) so it is 1.5 inches 'thick' and the hole is 1.5 inches.
...and a clamp wrench
But a spade wrench is more popular for 700 and Savage actions...
I made this from a truck axle.
Often a Savage action will require a barrel vise, and action wrench and a nut wrench.
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I made mine many years ago, made a number of bushings to fit various barrels as the need arose.
Made from 1 1/2" barstock, bushings are 1 1/2" in diameter, 7/8" clamping bolts.
Instead of bolting it to the bench, I grab it in a very large heavy vise I have.
Made and sold a few on CGN a while back, but stopped because the cost of the materials, time required and postage cost put the price above what I thought they were worth.
I have external receiver wrenches for round and flat sided receivers I made, and a commercial inside the receiver wrench.
Made from 1 1/2" barstock, bushings are 1 1/2" in diameter, 7/8" clamping bolts.
Instead of bolting it to the bench, I grab it in a very large heavy vise I have.
Made and sold a few on CGN a while back, but stopped because the cost of the materials, time required and postage cost put the price above what I thought they were worth.
I have external receiver wrenches for round and flat sided receivers I made, and a commercial inside the receiver wrench.
Attachments
Steps to make a vise:
Cut two pieces of barstock.
Drill the clamping bolt holes.
Clamp the pieces together in the 4 jaw chuck with a thin spacer between them. The pieces are clamped so that half a hole may be drilled and bored in each piece.
Cut two pieces of barstock.
Drill the clamping bolt holes.
Clamp the pieces together in the 4 jaw chuck with a thin spacer between them. The pieces are clamped so that half a hole may be drilled and bored in each piece.
- Location
- Western Manitoba
I recommend the above mention of the bore hole size - 1.5" - for barrel vise. I managed to buy a length of 1.5" diameter aluminum round bar and cut to 1.5" lengths to make the barrel vise inserts on my lathe. My miter saw with 60 tooth carbide blade seems to slice the 6061 aluminum easily. Biggest barrel that I have fitted are for M1917 / P14 - about 1.290 at the fat end of their barrel, made tapered inserts - so not much "insert" thickness, even with a 1.5" bore hole in the vise. I have another four bolt barrel vise here that appears home made - 1.75" bore, but I have not yet found aluminum stock to make that size insert, nor have I needed it. I found that a dusting of rosin, and a wrap of computer printer paper completely eliminate any aluminum scuff marks on the barrels.
For action wrench, I ended up with the Brownells system - probably 10 or more "heads" for various actions. Also have one internal wrench - a "spade" wrench, I suppose. I prefer to use that one to tighten up a receiver, rather than break it loose. Had to make a tall "jack stand" for outboard end of socket - hard to keep that long internal "spade" wrench straight with action / barrel when leaning into it with a 18" strong-arm, often with a 3 foot pipe over it as a snipe.
For action wrench, I ended up with the Brownells system - probably 10 or more "heads" for various actions. Also have one internal wrench - a "spade" wrench, I suppose. I prefer to use that one to tighten up a receiver, rather than break it loose. Had to make a tall "jack stand" for outboard end of socket - hard to keep that long internal "spade" wrench straight with action / barrel when leaning into it with a 18" strong-arm, often with a 3 foot pipe over it as a snipe.
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I have a salt shaker with powdered rosin.
aircraftspruce.ca has aluminum round stock for sale, along with a lot of other metal.
I think that I bought the 1 1/2" steel bar stock from Metalsupermarkets when I was making these vises for sale.
Made my flatside receiver wrench with a couple of pieces of 1" barstock. One longer than the other, with a few inches turned round so that a pipe cheater can be slipped over it. Allen head clamp screws, one piece is tapped. Clamp a couple of pieces of copper sheet between the wrench halves and receiver.
If the bushings leave any aluminum of the barrel, an aggressive bore cleaner will remove it.
aircraftspruce.ca has aluminum round stock for sale, along with a lot of other metal.
I think that I bought the 1 1/2" steel bar stock from Metalsupermarkets when I was making these vises for sale.
Made my flatside receiver wrench with a couple of pieces of 1" barstock. One longer than the other, with a few inches turned round so that a pipe cheater can be slipped over it. Allen head clamp screws, one piece is tapped. Clamp a couple of pieces of copper sheet between the wrench halves and receiver.
If the bushings leave any aluminum of the barrel, an aggressive bore cleaner will remove it.
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- Location
- Western Manitoba
OP title referenced Remington style - has the added complication of keeping that recoil lug in correct position while tightening on the barrel - several solutions, but just one thing more to sort out compared to a Mauser or a Win 70
