remington/UMC model 14 in 25 rem ...... i have one, need more info

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45ACPKING

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a friend brought over some old rifles and i've been on google all morning trying to I.D. the rifle

it's a pump action made between 1912 and 1934
we think it is a model 14 , serial number is in the 57### range
caliber is 25 rem

anyone have one of these?
ammo availlable or reloading gear out there?
anyone know a value?
she is in what i would consider excellent shooting condition though i haven't examined the bore.
stock and pump condition are excellent, metal surfaces are pretty nice considering age and use. some pitting but no rust. finish is worn as well but again, no rust anywhere. would love to shoot this bad boy hehehe

anyone with any info/experience with this rifle...... post or p.m. me

thanx
 
Model 14's are very well built rifles available in .25,.30,.32 and .35 Remington proprietary cartridges. The .25 is the ballistic equivalent of the .25/35 Winchester, an effective deer cartridge at woods ranges. I had one in .35 and it worked fine, a delight to carry. Value is around $250 to $600 depending on condition in my area. Dies are still available but brass is getting hard to find. If yours is pitted value would be on the lower end of the range mentioned. Some of the 14/141 family are prone to headspace problems with long use. Examination of a fired case will usually show a line in the brass ahead of the rim if this is an issue in your particular rifle. My 2 cents.
 
My father had one in 25Rem for many years. Ammunition and brass has long since been discontinued, and my father made most of his last loads from 30rem brass, which can also be difficult to find.
 
If the cartridge ID plug in the side of the receiver says "Rem" then it is 1912 mfg.
"Rem-UMC" is 1913.
If it is proud to the receiver it is later than that.
Remington made the model 14 receivers in large batch lots and filled drums with them on the assembly line so they weren't exactly put together or shipped in order of serial always. The little details of the gun can help with that. Have my book close at hand to figure it all out.

The 25 is all but extinct. It is also my favorite. I use 30rem brass. Dies are not too hard to get, try budget shooter supply for both.
Just use 25-35 load data but the COL for 25 has to be 2.500" to feed properly with a round nose bullet, regardless of weight.

My Gramma's brother hunted with a 14A in 25 rem and a few neighbours used the same in their 14s and a couple 8s so it is great to have thunder rolling from the same guns in this valley for over a century.
 
Noel said:
According to my book, by serial# your friends rifle is from mid 1917.
It should have a small brush guard at the end of the magazine and the brass ammo indicator should be proud to the receiver.
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Huh... Way too cool.
Thanx for the info guys.
It has a spiraled magazine with a little brush guard lookin thing. It also has a proud brass ammo indicator ;)
Brass inicator is worn somewhat, but I can make out REM and UMC. This is also stamped behind the trigger guard.
Barrel has rem umc as well as the peterson name and his patent dates. Below that is 25REM

Would having this rifle reblued professionally kill it's "value" ?
I'm gonna try and post some good pics
 
Rebluing an old gun from my past experience is not going to add any value, it takes away IMO. Plus with pits to blend out and character in the wood from 96 years of existence it is really hard to make it all look right. Sure wish I had left a couple of mine as is.

Mine came up from Oklahoma in the mid to late teens, in a scabbard on a saddle all the way to Edmonton. It has some marks on the butt stock to prove it but I quite like them. Knowing that history makes it cool I guess.

That one a 22" barrel or a shorter carbine?

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Oh its good to get that out of my system!:redface:
 
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If it is pitted and the original finish is mostly gone collector value is nil so reblue it if you like. Personally I find these old rifles have more character when left as is.
 
I appreciate you posting those pics Noel, just awesome.
I would like try and offer my friend an honest dollar for it. By all my inspections so far, I would not hestitate to feed her some ammo after cleaning the bore.
The wood on this one is nice, great condition actually. Nice deep reddish brown. No real damage. Metal buttplate does have some surface rusting/pitting.
When my wife gets home with her fancy phone, I'll take some good pics.

Say, if a guy was to find dies and brass.... What grain of bullet was your choice for deer?
 
Hornady or the Remington bulk 117gr RN is your only option. Firstly to attain the proper COL for feeding and also for safety. The spiral in the magazine is there to hold the cartridges cockeye so the bullet was not resting on the primer. They were advertised as being able to use "pointed bullets" but bear in mind in 1906 a round nose projectile was pointed compared to 44WCF or 38 WCF or put in your favorite lever gun cartridge here....

IMR 3031 is your friend. The muzzle velocity is around 2200 if memory serves and that little bullet is a tough customer on deer, shot three so far and all pass throughs. Makes a great finishing round for elk too.

I don't know about the bluing, its your gun but one day it will be passed on to the next custodian. It is still original now, even if gray. They are not common at all, actually kinda hard to find. Buy it, see how you like it and keep an eye out for a better one down the road.
Just a thought.
 
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Noel is like an old hound dog when the subject of vintage Remingtons comes up ;)
Big plus is - he knows his :bigHug::bigHug::bigHug::bigHug:!

A model 14 in .25 is a good score
I wouldn't refinish the gun - enjoy her as is.
 
Why not? said:
And, you can always make 25 Rem out of 30-30 brass. Just find a friend who knows how to run a lathe. :)

Ted
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hmmmm
so do i just turn off the rim on the 30-30 ? then neck size to 25? i have both brass and lathe :)
i've been reading on pumpguns.org and seems a 6.8spc fl die is a good intermediate die for necking down the 30 rem case, then into the 25 rem die for final sizing.......
this rifle has been in my hands since this afternoon and i'm rather fascinated ;)
 
45ACPKING said:
hmmmm
so do i just turn off the rim on the 30-30 ? then neck size to 25? i have both brass and lathe :)
i've been reading on pumpguns.org and seems a 6.8spc fl die is a good intermediate die for necking down the 30 rem case, then into the 25 rem die for final sizing.......
this rifle has been in my hands since this afternoon and i'm rather fascinated ;)
Click to expand...

Turn off the rim and cut the extractor groove. I would recommend grinding a special HSS cutter to avoid dicking around with a compound rest. SAAMI has the specs for the 30 and 32 Remington, and you can readily copy the dimensions from their cartridge prints. Best of luck!

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Between the 14 and 141, I have owned 4 of these in .35rem. Each one of them had major cycling issues, jams feeding up to the chamber, jams coming out of tube, forestock and trigger and safety all locking up. I love how slim and light the guns are but from what I have seen the complex design makes for a finicky gun. Before you get too excitied about it, make sure it works.
 
Mount Sweetness said:
Between the 14 and 141, I have owned 4 of these in .35rem. Each one of them had major cycling issues, jams feeding up to the chamber, jams coming out of tube, forestock and trigger and safety all locking up. I love how slim and light the guns are but from what I have seen the complex design makes for a finicky gun. Before you get too excitied about it, make sure it works.
Click to expand...

Worn cartridge stops plagued me with the first two I had as well, as well as the COL was very likely a cause of grief for you, maybe even bullet nose profile. The action has to be ran like a pump shotgun, like you really mean it Chuck Norris style.
 
Ya, it's a stiff action, that's for sure.
I've sprayed a bit of deep creep here and there and she has smoothened up a bit. All mechanical functions appear excellent considering age.
The quest for gear to make some ammo for her has begun ;)
 
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