I free floated the barrel as best as I could, as the sides of the stock are still a little tight to fit a piece of paper in there, if I'm off work before it's dark I'll go shoot it and see if that helped. If not, even if it does, I'll try and get rid of the copper fouling and see if that helps as well
Remmy 700 Wont shoot!! GRRRR
- Thread starter hunter-4-life
- Start date
sir_springer
Regular
- Location
- East Kootenays
Should be able to wrap a dollar bill around the barrel and freely slide it back and forth along the length of the forearm.
From what you're saying here, doesn't sound like this can be done...and I'm starting to suspect this is the root of your problem. Any contact, particularly unevenly so from side to side, is going to play havoc with groups as the barrel heats up. (Yes, I understand that full length bedding of the barrel in the forearm usually results in excellent accuracy, but that's a different matter altogether.)
I have had 3 700 Rems of magnum persuasion and bolt face that had a small hump in the bolt rim right where the extractor rivet was peened, these all shot very poorly as the small hump was touching the back of the barrel. Look at your bolt and see if you have a small shiny spot right above the extractor rivet on the nose of the bolt. This was a very common problem for several years and I suspect yours may fall in those years.
A photo of the bolt face would help if you can't understand what I'm talking about as it is hard to explain but quite evident when looked at. It has also been my experience with 700 Rems that they usually shoot better with forend pressure than without.
This is very easy to fix with a lathe, but can be repaired with a file if one is very careful to remove just the high spot.
A photo of the bolt face would help if you can't understand what I'm talking about as it is hard to explain but quite evident when looked at. It has also been my experience with 700 Rems that they usually shoot better with forend pressure than without.
This is very easy to fix with a lathe, but can be repaired with a file if one is very careful to remove just the high spot.
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I will go look right now and see if it has that. I do know there is a bit of brass in the bolt face...
When I got it, I cleaned it up, shot it and cleaned it after 50, no difference, shot another 30ish and now copper foul cleaning it out. Hoping that it makes a difference
Mount Sweetness
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Southern Ontario
Stop cleaning the gun, period.
It sounds like you will need some assistance from an experienced shooter/handloader.
It sounds like you will need some assistance from an experienced shooter/handloader.
Ardent
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
He actually sounds to me perfectly competent, what do you base this on "Sweetness"? If anyone wants a copper remover that is cheap by the gallon, doesn't hurt bluing, and is non-toxic try plain old Spray Nine one day. You'll be blown away, I promise.
Sweetness, please enlighten us with your wisdom he doesn't already have.
Seriously, I'd like to learn too!
Sweetness, please enlighten us with your wisdom he doesn't already have.
Seriously, I'd like to learn too!
I don't want to sound like more of a prick than normal, but believe that Mount Sweetness is onto something.
Think about it, 3 different powders and 5 different bullets, plus different primers and COLs all in 80-90 rounds? Then free floating the barrel without bedding the action? That sounds more like random flailing than methodical trouble-shooting or load work-up.
A more experienced shooter/gun doctor is in order.
Think about it, 3 different powders and 5 different bullets, plus different primers and COLs all in 80-90 rounds? Then free floating the barrel without bedding the action? That sounds more like random flailing than methodical trouble-shooting or load work-up.
A more experienced shooter/gun doctor is in order.
Dog ive never tried different primers, when I load uo rounds I load 4 and then shoot them to see if they group half decent, if it looks promising then ill go farther into it and see what it does. Only reason for doing this 1)powder/bullets is VERY hard to get in the boonies not to mention when I have a day off 99% of the time I cannot get to the city (2.5 hours one way) to get anything. I understand where you guys are coming from but some people cannot "work up" a load like most do due to the fact that I dont have access to powder/bullets that easy so I do have to be careful how much of it I burn. Keep in mind Ive had the rifle for 5 months.
As far as bedding goes, same thing, I havent been anywhere to grab the stuff I need to bed it, or even get anywhere to have someone else bed it. Free floating all I needed was sandpaper and I do in fact have a hardware store in town that keeps the basics
As far as bedding goes, same thing, I havent been anywhere to grab the stuff I need to bed it, or even get anywhere to have someone else bed it. Free floating all I needed was sandpaper and I do in fact have a hardware store in town that keeps the basics
- Location
- Somewhere on the Hudson Bay Coast
One reason might be that with the barrel cut to 23" the muzzle coincides with the tightest part of the bore. More likely though the muzzle was damaged somehow, and the 23" length was just convenient.
Edited to add . . .
OP, get rid of the pressure point completely, and see how it shoots. If the groups haven't tightened up, add shims to the barrel channel where the pressure point was, to incrementally add pressure to the barrel in an effort to find the sweet spot.
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Your first post said that you had tried different primers and COLs?
Not everyone has the time, knowledge, desire to acquire the knowledge, commitment or resources to trouble-shoot used (often problem) rifles. Actually, that's OK because there are enthusiasts, gunsmiths, new rifles and factory ammo to get them through. They are the majority of shooters, it just doesn't seem like it on a forum of gun nuts.
If you can latch onto a guru, that would help. Even gurus have gurus.
Not everyone has the time, knowledge, desire to acquire the knowledge, commitment or resources to trouble-shoot used (often problem) rifles. Actually, that's OK because there are enthusiasts, gunsmiths, new rifles and factory ammo to get them through. They are the majority of shooters, it just doesn't seem like it on a forum of gun nuts.
If you can latch onto a guru, that would help. Even gurus have gurus.
Hunter4life, having read your opening post and skimmed the majority of the replies what I have not seen is results from factory ammo.
Have you tried and what results did you experience?
When all else fails resort to some factory ammo to try and determine common results and move from there.
I reloaded for my Rem Varminter in .243 years ago and while some combos would show promise it wasnt until I tried some Federal 100 grn Blue Box stuff that I decided the challenge of covering three bullet holes touching at 100 yrds just wasnt worth the costs.
I'm not saying Not to enjoy reloading and the benefits of such but, you are chasing some problems that may cause you to go round and round the whole hunting season.
Tight Groups,
Rob
Have you tried and what results did you experience?
When all else fails resort to some factory ammo to try and determine common results and move from there.
I reloaded for my Rem Varminter in .243 years ago and while some combos would show promise it wasnt until I tried some Federal 100 grn Blue Box stuff that I decided the challenge of covering three bullet holes touching at 100 yrds just wasnt worth the costs.
I'm not saying Not to enjoy reloading and the benefits of such but, you are chasing some problems that may cause you to go round and round the whole hunting season.
Tight Groups,
Rob
A couple options I'll toss in. If you don't want to splurge for Devcon or similar bedding compounds, you can use JB Weld in a pinch. I've used it for a couple bedding jobs and it works and still holding up. The other option is to shim the front of the receiver to help float the barrel. This can be done by cutting up some old aluminum pop/beer cans into strips, punch a hole for the receiver screw and stack them as needed to raise the barrel then torque back down the receiver screws to 35-40inch pounds. It's not as good as a bedding job but it'll free float the barrel and help you eliminate that possible part of the problem. See if your groups tighten up. If they do, well you're on the right track, bed that action.
As others pointed out, check the crown of your barrel to see if it's not a hack job when whoever cut down the barrel. Maybe they didn't cut it off squarely.
As others pointed out, check the crown of your barrel to see if it's not a hack job when whoever cut down the barrel. Maybe they didn't cut it off squarely.
have you changed the scope on it... sometimes its not the rifle at all... mabbe somethin loosy goosy in the scope
i had a rem varmint in 308 that would shoot 3" groups when brand new... tried every fiddly fix in the book... after 2 years, a brand new shilen barrel turned it into a shooter ...lesson here: sometimes you just have to rebarrel a Turd gun ! lol
i had a rem varmint in 308 that would shoot 3" groups when brand new... tried every fiddly fix in the book... after 2 years, a brand new shilen barrel turned it into a shooter ...lesson here: sometimes you just have to rebarrel a Turd gun ! lol
I have a used 700 in 25-06 that is giving me grief right now, but so far I have only worked with 120 Nosler Parts because that is the bullet I would like to use in it. I have tried several powders and some COAL changes but so far nothing is showing promise. Sometimes it's just the nature of the beast, when I have exhausted the suitable powder selection for the Noslers I'll be trying a 125 Maxtix bullet in it, and so on, and so on, and so on.................................
I have found 1/4 bores to be finiky anyway, but have always found a load except for an old Win featherweight (push feed, first year) in 257 Bob that absolutely would not shoot, period.
7RM is not a particularly difficult cartridge to load for and I have had several that shot very well with several different loads...........keep plugging along and you should succeed.
My personal method is to try a few loads and if nothing is showing any promise, my first change is to add forend pressure to the barrel, this works 50% of the time on sporter weight barrels. Next is to bed action and chamber only, float barrel and if still no improvement I again add forend pressure. There can be upwards of 100 test loads between each change, depending on my goals and expectations for that caliber and rifle. If it still won't play nice I will then re-crown it and try the loads that showed the best promise again. I had an 8mm RM that was giving me fits and I even rechambered it twice. The list can go on "ad nauseum" however somewhere you just have to say "enough" and either sell or rebarrel it, which I did with the Sako 8 RM and in 300 WM it shot 3/4" with 180 NPs and I took it to Africa and it performed flawlessly. I will also change scope and rings somewhere along the way, sometimes twice even, just to be 100% sure.
I have found 1/4 bores to be finiky anyway, but have always found a load except for an old Win featherweight (push feed, first year) in 257 Bob that absolutely would not shoot, period.
7RM is not a particularly difficult cartridge to load for and I have had several that shot very well with several different loads...........keep plugging along and you should succeed.
My personal method is to try a few loads and if nothing is showing any promise, my first change is to add forend pressure to the barrel, this works 50% of the time on sporter weight barrels. Next is to bed action and chamber only, float barrel and if still no improvement I again add forend pressure. There can be upwards of 100 test loads between each change, depending on my goals and expectations for that caliber and rifle. If it still won't play nice I will then re-crown it and try the loads that showed the best promise again. I had an 8mm RM that was giving me fits and I even rechambered it twice. The list can go on "ad nauseum" however somewhere you just have to say "enough" and either sell or rebarrel it, which I did with the Sako 8 RM and in 300 WM it shot 3/4" with 180 NPs and I took it to Africa and it performed flawlessly. I will also change scope and rings somewhere along the way, sometimes twice even, just to be 100% sure.
Nope just COL's I've changed a bit.
For factory ammo I've shot 150gr and 175gr Remington core-lokt, Hornady 139 and 162gr SST, and fusion 175gr. Bought some Winchester 175gr and will try those out here when I get a chance
Sorry I should have been more specific when I started it...whoops
