Remmy mod. 725 "sprays" bullets.

gitrdun

gitrdun

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I was shooting with my friend today. He brought a mod. 725 chambered for .244 Rem. He was shooting 105gr. Remington extended range 6mm ammo. His best was 2". He blamed it on a gunshmith that had recently done some repairs to the safety mechanism. I noticed two things about it that I figure could be a problem. Of course, I checked the bases & mounts (Leupold) and the scope (Leupold VariX II 2-7).

1. I believe the rifling in those guns is 1 in 12 which probably doesn't stabilize those 105 gr. bullets very well. Likely meant to shoot the lighter varmint bullets.

2. The action is bedded. But it starts 2" forward of the recoil lug, which is fine, maybe. But then it ends halfway into the receiver opening. The rear portion and tang area is not bedded. I know that Savage tangs are floated since the rear mounting is in front of the trigger. But shouldn't the Remmy tang be bedded?

Anyways, the experts' opinions is what I'd like to hear before my buddy goes ballistic on the gunsmith.
 
He's lucky he got 2" groups. Its the rifling twist. Tell him to try the rifle with some lighter bullets. General thought is that a .244 won't work with a spitzer bullet heavier than 90 gr.
 
tiriaq said:
He's lucky he got 2" groups. Its the rifling twist. Tell him to try the rifle with some lighter bullets. General thought is that a .244 won't work with a spitzer bullet heavier than 90 gr.
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X2, try 85gr loads.
 
Thats why the .243 is so popular and the .244 or 6mm remington pretty much died even though they came on line about the same time, the rifling twist was to slow in the rem and wouldn't shoot heavy bullets and the 243's 1-10 twist would so thats what everyone bought even though the 244 with a proper twist beats the 243 hands down. Rem screwed the pooch on that one.
 
The thing of it is that this friend always expects that I should reload for his guns. He simply can't bare the thought that my rifles shoot sub-moa because I have spent time fine tuning my rifles and loads. I don't know what the availability of 6mm factory ammo is like, but I sure don't want to reload for yet another rifle. As it is, I have my hands full with my own. The old .244 sounds like a good rifle to own, in the right hands. Maybe I'll talk him into selling it :D
 
gitrdun said:
2. The action is bedded. But it starts 2" forward of the recoil lug, which is fine, maybe. But then it ends halfway into the receiver opening. The rear portion and tang area is not bedded. I know that Savage tangs are floated since the rear mounting is in front of the trigger. But shouldn't the Remmy tang be bedded?

Anyways, the experts' opinions is what I'd like to hear before my buddy goes ballistic on the gunsmith.
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gitrdun,
Well from your desciption, if he paid more than $50 for that bedding he has a right to go ballistic.

The front and rear hold down screws should go thru pillars, aluminum or bedding material to keep the wood in the stock under the action from crushing when the screws are tightened. The back of the action and front of the action should have bedding material under it and the front should have the bedding material forming the bedding behind and around the recoil lug. I don't like bedding material touching the barrel, especially with a light factory barrel, so I would loose the 2" ahead of the action. The barrel should free float from recoil lug to front of the stock.

NormB
 
gitrdun said:
I was shooting with my friend today. He brought a mod. 725 chambered for .244 Rem. He was shooting 105gr. Remington extended range 6mm ammo. His best was 2". He blamed it on a gunshmith that had recently done some repairs to the safety mechanism. I noticed two things about it that I figure could be a problem. Of course, I checked the bases & mounts (Leupold) and the scope (Leupold VariX II 2-7).

1. I believe the rifling in those guns is 1 in 12 which probably doesn't stabilize those 105 gr. bullets very well. Likely meant to shoot the lighter varmint bullets.

2. The action is bedded. But it starts 2" forward of the recoil lug, which is fine, maybe. But then it ends halfway into the receiver opening. The rear portion and tang area is not bedded. I know that Savage tangs are floated since the rear mounting is in front of the trigger. But shouldn't the Remmy tang be bedded?

Anyways, the experts' opinions is what I'd like to hear before my buddy goes ballistic on the gunsmith.
Click to expand...

1. All barrels marked .244 Remington are 1 in 12 twist and usually will not shoot long pointy bullets. All barrels marked 6mm Remington are either 1 in 10 or 1 in 9 twist. Try bullets 90 grains or less and it may shoot just fine with no changes to the bedding.

2. Don't blame the bedding just yet. All barrels marked .244 Remington are 1 in 12 twist and usually will not shoot long pointy bullets. All barrels marked 6mm Remington are either 1 in 10 or 1 in 9 twist. Try bullets 90 grains or less and it may shoot just fine with no changes to the bedding.

3. How good the bedding job is can be tested using a dial gauge set up on the barrel. Loosen one stock screw one turn .... there should be little (about 3 thou.) or no movement between the barrel and the stock. Tighten it and repeat the test with the other screw.

4. Tell him not go ballistic on his gunsmith. Ballistic usually doesn't achieve anything with anyone.
 
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A friend of mine used to bed all of his Remingtons just this way. He just didn't tighten the rear screw more than finger tight. They shot very well.
I agree with Dennis that "going ballistic" is often counterproductive and can even be hazardous.
Round nose 100 and 105 grain bullet were produced for the 244s and worked fine but I've always liked 85s for 6mms anyway. Regards, Bill.
 
gitrdun said:
1. I believe the rifling in those guns is 1 in 12 which probably doesn't stabilize those 105 gr. bullets very well. Likely meant to shoot the lighter varmint bullets.
Click to expand...

Contrary to popular belief, not all 244s have a 1 in 12 twist. Around May 1960, rifling twist in the 244 was increased to 1 in 10. The 244 chambering was dropped in the 725 at the end of the same year. Date the rifle or check the rate of twist on your own before doing anything drastic. I just read an article in and old handloader's digest (seventh edition-page 77) about the 244 and heavy bullets in reloads. Author was getting sub MOA groups at 200 and 400 yards with no keyholes at these extreme ranges with a 722.

Found the serial # range-- anything after 714###X SHOULD have 1 in 10 twist in the 725.

Nope, haven't mounted the scope on anything yet.
 
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gitrdun said:
The thing of it is that this friend always expects that I should reload for his guns. He simply can't bare the thought that my rifles shoot sub-moa because I have spent time fine tuning my rifles and loads. I don't know what the availability of 6mm factory ammo is like, but I sure don't want to reload for yet another rifle. As it is, I have my hands full with my own. The old .244 sounds like a good rifle to own, in the right hands. Maybe I'll talk him into selling it :D
Click to expand...

Missed this quote. Let me know if it needs a new home.
 
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