Remove a stuck bullet

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sonichanxiao

CGN Regular
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Anyone had experience removing a stuck bullet from rifle barrel cause by squib load?

As the bullet is not far in from the chamber side, so I tried to knock the bullet out using cleaning rod from muzzle side, but it doesn't seem moving.

Saw this youtube video https://youtu.be/1Gfi1W8KdN0?t=138 by loading a "blank" round to push the stuck bullet out, not sure if I should try this. Or better find any gunsmith with grease gun kind of equipment to get the bullet out?

Thanks in advance
 
I am not sure that it matters, but maybe just a bit more information might help - cartridge? Make / Model of rifle (can barrel be easily removed or not)? Type of bullet (jacketed, cast)? DO NOT BE TEMPTED TO POUND OUT WITH A WOODEN DOWEL - dowel will split and wedge in there - then you have two things stuck in the bore!!

Some of us own smooth polished steel rods that fit that bore snuggly and will drive out "stuck" bullets - others use brass rods - same idea - to fit snuggly so as not to damage the rifling in the bore. So pretty much need separate for each bore size, or a way to protect the rifling from the rod slapping against rifling, when struck by hammer.

I have never tried the "blank" behind a bullet part way up the bore - so I am no help about that.
 
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Potashminer said:
I am not sure that it matters, but maybe just a bit more information might help - cartridge? Make / Model of rifle (can barrel be easily removed or not)? Type of bullet (jacketed, cast)? DO NOT BE TEMPTED TO POUND OUT WITH A WOODEN DOWEL - dowel will split and wedge in there - then you have two things stuck in the bore!!

Some of us own smooth polished steel rods that fit that bore snuggly and will drive out "stuck" bullets - others use brass rods - same idea - to fit snuggly so as not to damage the rifling in the bore. So pretty much need separate for each bore size, or a way to protect the rifling from the rod slapping against rifling, when struck by hammer.

I have never tried the "blank" behind a bullet part way up the bore - so I am no help about that.
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Thanks for the reply. Sorry, I didn't realize it needs this much info.

It's 6mm dasher, so it's a customize build but on rem700 footprint action.
Bullet is Sierra MatchKing 107gr HPBT, I believe it is jacketed.

I guess both steel and brass rods are stimulating a loaded round to guide and push the bullet out from the muzzle, it also protect the rifling when pushing the bullet, correct?
 
Not sure that I follow your thinking - maybe I mislead you - if bullet is only a short ways from chamber, I would insert a good fitting rod into muzzle and tap that bullet back out of the chamber - the "blank" idea would drive it forward and out the muzzle. Many people would suggest overnight soak with muzzle up right and a good shot of penetrating oil in there - that can not hurt. If bullet has gone full length of itself, it should have the rifling engraved into itself - if it has not fully engraved its bearing distance, then likely best bet is to try to get it out the way that it went in there.

I did see the U-tube video of the Edmonton gunsmith guy with the grease gun powered removal tool - I do not think that is a "normal" gunsmith type of tool - have to consider how he created a clamp for that pressure to attach to outside of the barrel at the muzzle - perhaps around a front sight, or had to remove a front sight - that "clamp" has to hold tight enough to withstand the pressure that will pop the obstruction loose.

EDIT: 8-May-2022 - I have been advised by CGN member that the Edmonton gunsmith guy is using a fitting that he machined into the muzzle and held with his lathe tail stock to hold that grease gun pressure - is not a "clamp" around the barrel - my mistake on the description.
 
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I have done this with a stainless rod taped at intervals to protect the bore. Insert down muzzle at tap the bullet out. It should be pretty easy.

Do not use a wooden dowel, and I wouldn't try anything that drives the bullet deeper into the barrel or you'll likely need a gunsmith to sort it out.

Chris.
 
A steel rod close to bore diameter, with a flat end, taped every couple of inches to protect the rifling... drive the bullet out the shortest way... make sure the rod is taped where it contacts the muzzle and where it contacts the bullet... hold the barrel in a padded vise... and it will take quite hard blows... most likely with a heavy hammer.
 
guntech said:
A steel rod close to bore diameter, with a flat end, taped every couple of inches to protect the rifling... drive the bullet out the shortest way... make sure the rod is taped where it contacts the muzzle and where it contacts the bullet... hold the barrel in a padded vise... and it will take quite hard blows... most likely with a heavy hammer.
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Thank you sir.

I did try to tap using a mallet and brass rod from HomeDepot. Doesn't seem moving the bullet at all. The rod has bend a bit already. I guess I'd better stop there. Not sure how critical the heavy hammer part is.

I did spray some ballistol and lucas gun oil from both side of the barrel, hopefully it can make some difference after stay overnight.
 
Do not listen to idiots on you tube about shooting it out.
That will bulge the barrel.
As had been said , a hard steel rod, or brass , that is as large as will fit, not always possible.
I have used shrink tubing , to cover the rod, princess auto has it, but can be hard to find in long lengths ( rolls )
slide it on rod and hear with heat gun or small torch .
If you rod is bending , build it up with tape in a few spot, not too much .
If a tap don't work, wack it. Tapping is for tacks. ( or a pistol). Good luck.
Stand it up and put more oil, or ? and let stand for a couple days.
Take the action out of the stock.
 
OP - I could not easily find specs about 6mm Dasher bore, but that bullet is 0.243" diameter - assuming 0.004 rifling each side, that means hole down the barrel (top of rifling) is about 0.235" - so like 15/64" - less than 1/4". Assuming that your barrel is 26" target barrel is going to be a very slender rod to be used. If your rod is bending, I presume that is the part of it protruding from the muzzle?? Tend to want to minimize that unsupported length as much as possible.

Tapping - hitting - pounding - to do anything, want the force applied by hammer / mallet to be transferred to the bullet by that rod - not absorbed or dissipated by the support - hence the suggestion to remove action from stock - I would add to then support the rear end of that action on something solid - so is no bounce going on - all the force applied to the rod getting applied to bullet within barrel - not being dissipated within wood stock or whatever.

Nastiest solution is to unscrew that barrel from receiver - set rear end of barrel on a solid support - eliminate the receiver, stock, etc. entirely.

Tools used are relative, I guess - I was too long working as underground miner - so 2 or 3 pound ball peen hammer or 4 pound hand sledge sort of commonly used here. Likely is also a challenge to make contact squarely - that the face of the striking tool is at right angles to that rod on contact - so force is directed down that bore. Idea of "snug fitting" was so that the rod is kind of "supported" for the length of the barrel - by the face of the rifling - if loose, can "slap" and play various kinds of hell to both rod and to rifling.

Good Luck.
 
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marshall said:
Do not listen to idiots on you tube about shooting it out.
That will bulge the barrel.
As had been said , a hard steel rod, or brass , that is as large as will fit, not always possible.
I have used shrink tubing , to cover the rod, princess auto has it, but can be hard to find in long lengths ( rolls )
slide it on rod and hear with heat gun or small torch .
If you rod is bending , build it up with tape in a few spot, not too much .
If a tap don't work, wack it. Tapping is for tacks. ( or a pistol). Good luck.
Stand it up and put more oil, or ? and let stand for a couple days.
Take the action out of the stock.
Click to expand...

Why are you so insistent on "oil"

When a bullet is stuck in the bore, the only thing oil does is make things messy and slippery.

As for bulging the bore shooting it out. Maybe in the very odd situation.

I've removed a few dozen stuck projectiles with blank cartridges. The only time I'm concerned about bulging a barrel is if the projectile is stuck beyond the halfway point.

As for using rod to pound out the projectile, the tip of the rod should be rounded off before its inserted into the bore.
 
I am thinking a bit of penetrating oil, or G96. It may not help, but it will when it starts moving, did not mean heavy oil.
My idea is that it may soak through and help lube, slide better. Just my option , may not mean a damn thing.

I have seen 2 guns with bulged barrels , but you are correct, on a 700 with the bullet near the chamber, that should not be a issue.
What I find interesting is that most of the bulged barrels I have seen have been 22RF ( and 12ga)
 
marshall said:
Do not listen to idiots on you tube about shooting it out.
Click to expand...

How about listening to Hatcher, one of the greatest small arms technicians of the smokeless powder era?

I have not done it, but he described the process a century ago in a chapter dedicated to barrel obstructions, part of a book that is still one of the best technical guides to firearms ever produced.

Put some powder in a primed case. You want no projectile of any kind, so you will have to load the gun with the barrel pointing up, and keep it there. Pull the trigger, problem solved.
 
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... and barrels also have been bulged by shooting obstructions out...

there are no guarantees in that process... he states his success was uniform for the few times it was tried...
 
bearhunter said:
As for using rod to pound out the projectile, the tip of the rod should be rounded off before its inserted into the bore.
Click to expand...

I prefer a flat tip as it pushes straight on the bullet with no tendency to slide to the side or to expand the bulge tighter in the bore...
 
guntech said:
I prefer a flat tip as it pushes straight on the bullet with no tendency to slide to the side or to expand the bulge tighter in the bore...
Click to expand...

i think he may mean chamfer the end of the rod so it doesnt have a sharp corner on.

As to OP.

Its going to take a heck of a lot more than a "Tap" with a hammer. you have to remember, the projectile is a force fit that dents the outside of the projectile. oil likely wont help as it wont be able to get between the projectile and barrel.

set the rod down on the end of the projectile.. brass is soft and safe for the barrel.. but it may deform on the projectile (swell and wedge the rod in the barrel)
Go with what guntech said, use a steel rod that is very close to the bore dia, you dont want the rod sliding side to side when you hammer.
Use a large 1 hand sledge. start hitting the rod lightly, and slowly increase the force, you will feel it start to move, increase the force just a bit so you can control it so you don't hammer the muzzle when it lets go.
 
guntech said:
... and barrels also have been bulged by shooting obstructions out...

there are no guarantees in that process... he states his success was uniform for the few times it was tried...
Click to expand...

This paragraph is his introduction to the topic. The book goes on for 3 more pages how the ordnance lab set up a series of trials to see what the limits of the process was. They never, ever bulged a barrel when firing a bullet-less cartridge behind a single bullet stuck partway along the bore.
 
guntech said:
I prefer a flat tip as it pushes straight on the bullet with no tendency to slide to the side or to expand the bulge tighter in the bore...
Click to expand...

I know where you're coming from, I should have been more explicit and said round of the edges so they aren't sharp.
 
marshall said:
I am thinking a bit of penetrating oil, or G96. It may not help, but it will when it starts moving, did not mean heavy oil.
My idea is that it may soak through and help lube, slide better. Just my option , may not mean a damn thing.

I have seen 2 guns with bulged barrels , but you are correct, on a 700 with the bullet near the chamber, that should not be a issue.
What I find interesting is that most of the bulged barrels I have seen have been 22RF ( and 12ga)
Click to expand...

I know what you meant.

That bullet is sealed completely against the bore walls. Penetrating oil will work on "rusted" together metal, as it breaks down the ferrous oxide. You aren't dealing with that here.

I've seen guys heat the area the bullet is lodged, hoping to break the weld against the bore. Never saw it have a positive effect.
 
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