Remove a stuck bullet

I believe that bulged barrels come from trying to "shooting out" a previously stuck projectile with another round with another projectile. A round (brass + powder + primer) with no projectile will easily "shoot it out" with no ill effects.
Ever watch a Scheutzen benchrest match - virtually all these guys "breach seat" their cast lead bullets separately with some kind of a lever acting bullet seater - engaging the bullet at least half the bullets length into the rifling. Then they insert a primed / powdered case (usually plugged with some kind of foam or cork gasket) into the chamber and fire it. I recently tried this myself and although apprehensive / skeptical, it actually works fine and for cast lead bullets at least, there's a definite accuracy improvement
 
I have removed a few, not many stuck bullets. If you take a small cleaning rod and measure how far from the contact point of the bullet to the muzzle, you should be able to figure exactly how far the bullets engaged in the barrel. As suggested get as big a rod as possible and cut it only slightly longer than required to remove the bullet. Get a piece of hardwood and drill a hole the size of the rod and cut it thru the hole and screw the two halves onto the end of the rod. Add the width of the hardwood to the original measurement of the rod required. Use a big deadblow hammer because it transfers energy much better. The hard wood block will give a bigger striking surface and prevent damage when the bullet clears the barrel. I also used Kroil soaked for a day. I wouldnt attempt to shoot it out!! Best of luck
 
BattleRife said:
This paragraph is his introduction to the topic. The book goes on for 3 more pages how the ordnance lab set up a series of trials to see what the limits of the process was. They never, ever bulged a barrel when firing a bullet-less cartridge behind a single bullet stuck partway along the bore.
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And of course a bullet from a squib will not be very far into the rifling, most likely it will be where the barrel is very thick, so the chance of bulging it will be nil.
 
Shooting out stuck bullets is risky business. Depending how far up the barrel they are can considerably effect the dynamics of the shot being fired. Never even consider using a manufactured "blank" cartridge, they are loaded with very fast burning powder not intended to have any resistance. Also carefully measure from both ends to be sure there is only one bullet. I once had a 22 come in with 5 stuck in it. Snug fitting tough rods, drill rod or stainless are best and not sticking out of barrel more than a couple inches. In especially tough ones I have made up a rod with a short drill bit welded into the end about 2/3 size of bore, this can help relieve some of the tension, then you are driving out a hollow shell rather than a solid plug. Driving on the pointed nose can swell the bullet and make it tighter especially in rough/rusted bores.
 
Sorry guys, forgot to post some update.
Ceasy from Tactical Ordance help to knock the bullet out using a steel rod at right diameter with a hammer barrel mounted on a vise.

I guess I just didn't have the right tool, mainly the steel rod and vise part.
 
Well thanks for keeping us informed. Glad that you were able to rectify the problem. The proper tools definitely make life easier.
 
Now that it is put..how did you get a fast round like the Dasher that is always filled up to the neck with a low powder charge ?
This is a small case..powder level can be seen easily.
 
I’m guessing there was no powder and only the primer? Someone needs to rethink they’re reloading program!!
 
Janeau said:
Now that it is put..how did you get a fast round like the Dasher that is always filled up to the neck with a low powder charge ?
This is a small case..powder level can be seen easily.
Click to expand...

Pure speculation on my part -- but it's easy enough to do on a progressive press -- exactly why I don't use one.
 
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