Remove
- Thread starter scjordan
- Start date
Action wrench #4 and a barrel vise. Or a strong vise for action and wrench can be used on the barrel knox of #4 or #1.
Often removal is not pretty. Heat, percussion, power bar, grip powder added. These barrels were often put on with up to 300 lbs torque, no bs.
Talk to guys at this upcoming Orangeville show, lots there can help you.
Often removal is not pretty. Heat, percussion, power bar, grip powder added. These barrels were often put on with up to 300 lbs torque, no bs.
Talk to guys at this upcoming Orangeville show, lots there can help you.
Be very careful, use the right tools and be prepared for one Gawdawful BANG!! when it lets go.
Swapped barrels on a Number 4 for a friend and it took more than 350 ft/lbs before it let go. After that, it was turn it off with finger power.
Be sure to have some thin (.030" should work) lead sheeting handy for fitting the new barrel; they often need a thin lead washer between barrel and body just so you get the indexing perfect. Proof round WILL settle everything out.
If you don't have a PROOF round, you can extemporise a substitute from a MAX 150-grain handload..... but using a 180. This will not produce full Proof pressures, but it will get you into the ballpark and should get the chamber started to swelling enough to lock everything permanently tight. A full Proof round should only be used for mating a new Bolt to a Body.
Hope this helps.
.
Swapped barrels on a Number 4 for a friend and it took more than 350 ft/lbs before it let go. After that, it was turn it off with finger power.
Be sure to have some thin (.030" should work) lead sheeting handy for fitting the new barrel; they often need a thin lead washer between barrel and body just so you get the indexing perfect. Proof round WILL settle everything out.
If you don't have a PROOF round, you can extemporise a substitute from a MAX 150-grain handload..... but using a 180. This will not produce full Proof pressures, but it will get you into the ballpark and should get the chamber started to swelling enough to lock everything permanently tight. A full Proof round should only be used for mating a new Bolt to a Body.
Hope this helps.
.
If you are taking off a ruined barrel - set up in the lathe and use a parting tool to shave off the shoulder within a whisker of the action face. Relieving the pressure on the action face makes disassembly much easier. You still need a proper fitting action wrench.
It is not clear from the original post whether it is an Enfield or Lee Enfield action being referred to - either can be a B#tch to remove the barrel.
It is not clear from the original post whether it is an Enfield or Lee Enfield action being referred to - either can be a B#tch to remove the barrel.
Lee-Enfield, and Enfield (P-'14 and M-1917) barrels were never ASSEMBLED that tight. In fact, they were assembled barely hand-tight.
What makes them such absolute B*TCHES to remove is the Proof round, which actually EXPANDED the chamber .002" and jammed the threads together.
THIS is why the Ross had trouble initially: Ross used the Enfield dimensons on his reamers, but the Ross barrels were much tougher and did not expand into the threads as readily. Result: Ross chambers, reamed from identical reamers, which were measurably tighter than LE chambers.
You have to KNOW what you are doing with these rifles or else you end up with a steel pretzel instead of a receiver. Straightening a twisted receiver is very nearly impossible.
.
What makes them such absolute B*TCHES to remove is the Proof round, which actually EXPANDED the chamber .002" and jammed the threads together.
THIS is why the Ross had trouble initially: Ross used the Enfield dimensons on his reamers, but the Ross barrels were much tougher and did not expand into the threads as readily. Result: Ross chambers, reamed from identical reamers, which were measurably tighter than LE chambers.
You have to KNOW what you are doing with these rifles or else you end up with a steel pretzel instead of a receiver. Straightening a twisted receiver is very nearly impossible.
.
The reference material from Peter Laidler on MILSURP forums notes that 18 degrees of offset from vertical is the desired hand tight position when installing a new No4 barrel. Coincidentally, I recently installed a new barrel on a M1903 Springfield which was at 18 degrees of offset when hand tight. Threads are different on these 2 barrels, so there is no relationship between the 2 rifles.
Well before the fight gets more heated...lol....just need to take the barrel off...It was cut to prohib lenght, then I bought it with a bunch of others at an estate sale. I will not be putting a new barrel on, just registering as a reciever only. Then on here it goes as parts. WHY you ask??
Cause the whole thing was CHROMED..lol so just a want to get rid of it.
Jordy
Cause the whole thing was CHROMED..lol so just a want to get rid of it.
Jordy
releve the pressure on the receiver ring.
cut around the barrel next to the receiver ,not touching the receiver ,with a hack saw .deep enough to be lower than the threads . remove with a vice and pipe wrench . if you don;t care about the barrel.
cut around the barrel next to the receiver ,not touching the receiver ,with a hack saw .deep enough to be lower than the threads . remove with a vice and pipe wrench . if you don;t care about the barrel.
- Location
- windsor,ontario
i'll buy the receiver and other action parts im looking for one to build a .22/.303 off of
