Removing Loc-Tite

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I bought a VangComp +1 extension a while back. I figured using LT Blue would give me some extra hold while still being easy to break. I was having problems with the it loosening. Given it is much bigger threading than recommended and it isn't Red I figured I would be fine. BUT! I can't get it off. There are now scratches on the extension from the various tools I tried... This thing is on there very, very GOOD! So how the hell do I get it off??
 
Often people make the mistake of slathering the stuff over the whole thread. A drop on a 1/2 x 28 muzzle thread is more than enough. One small drop. Never use the green or red unless you want a permanent attachment.

So now you have to put the heat to it to get it off.
 
I thought that would be the response. I gave it a few minutes under a propane torch. Much longer and it would have been starting to glow. No luck :(. If a dab 'll do ya I f**ked up... And it is weird, someone put Red on the sights on another gun, unscrewed easily after putting a little effort to crack it....
 
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I thought that would be the response. I gave it a few minutes under a propane torch. Much longer and it would have been starting to glow. No luck :(. If a dab 'll do ya I f**ked up... And it is weird, someone put Red on the sights on another gun, unscrewed easily after putting a little effort to crack it....

Probably had oil or some such on it. That'll wreck any lock-tite bond
 
simple solution

Probably had oil or some such on it. That'll wreck any lock-tite bond

If it aint cross threaded - Kroil fer a few hours - and a big wrench.
Loctite goes liquid with the right heat for the right amount of time- it should come off.
 
Maybe I willtry the torch again tomorrow after the range. I rushed it to clean it before the next session. I think this will require patience. Any other suggestions are welcome though:p. Thanks a ton guys,I will be back if it fails!
 
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Less heat for longer. The let go temperature is around 300'ishF. So a little over the boiling point of water but not enough to turn clean steel to one of the colors. If a bit of naked steel in the flame starts to turn tan then it's too hot. Pull it back a bit and play it around more. You want it so a wet finger will sizzle smartly but not to hot that it's up to the color change temperature. Just play the flame over the joint long enough that you're sure it's heat soaked through the full depth then turn the extension off while it's still hot. If you let it cool it'll lock back up.
 
Less heat for longer. The let go temperature is around 300'ishF. So a little over the boiling point of water but not enough to turn clean steel to one of the colors. If a bit of naked steel in the flame starts to turn tan then it's too hot. Pull it back a bit and play it around more. You want it so a wet finger will sizzle smartly but not to hot that it's up to the color change temperature. Just play the flame over the joint long enough that you're sure it's heat soaked through the full depth then turn the extension off while it's still hot. If you let it cool it'll lock back up.

This is good advice. The temperature must reach the loctite. If you just heat it up hot for a short time, the mag extension acts as a heat sink and prevents the heat from getting to the the loctite.

Loctite is good for a very few things on guns, I repeat a very few things. Guns existed long before loctite; they worked fine and didn't fall apart. Someday I will make a statement about Dremel tools!
 
I agree with all the advice given on here, but I will say that in my experience sometimes there's unfortunately no way to get something off even using heat or penetrating oil.
Sorry man, keep at it, but you actually might be up the creek without a paddle on this one.
 
On parts at work we usually apply way to much heat, for a long time. You can actually see smoke coming out of the threads which used to be locktite.

In your application, I agree with previous posts about low heat for a long time. The only thing I can add is ensure that you turn it out while it's still good and warm.
 
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