Removing Minor Scratches from Stainless Steel

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Scragbait

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Hello Gun Fixers

I bought a used stainless steel revolver (S&W 686) and it has a small but noticable scratch on the left side near the top of the grip. I'd like to buff it out along with some other minor blemishes. I was wondering what would be the best method - abrasive paste and cloth by hand or a small modeller's power tool such as a Dremel? What abrasive compound is best and where could it be found? What type of cloth or wheel (I'd prefer cloth)?

Would it make sense to repolish all the smooth surfaces visible as opposed to working on just the flawed areas and risk having it look patchy?

I'm open to comments, suggestions and experiences.

Thanks.
 
I've found it's extremely tough to keep a 'consistent' appearance after trying to buff out a scratch on a stainless.

I have a 686 as well, and can see minutes scratches over parts of the frame, and have considered trying to buff them out, but thought better of it. You may get rid of the scratch, but you'll always see where you tried to fix it.

Just my $0.02... if the scratch is really that bad, I would get the whole thing bead blasted (matte look), or polished to a mirror shine :)
 
Scragbait,

Here's a post from the S&W forum that may help:

http://smith-wessonforum.com/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/511103904/m/1991022541

Steave
Member

Posted Jul 8, 10:34 AM
"I recently picked up a 3" 65-5 that was in good shape, but had a several dings, scratches, etc. It wasn't bad and I wasn't unhappy with it, but wanted it to be just a bit cleaner. Based on my previous experiences and posts on this board, I used two methods, both sandpaper and scotch-brite pads; my goal was to duplicate a factory stainless finish. Before getting started I completely stripped the revolver so I wouldn't need to worry about any residue getting into the action and I could give it a thorough cleaning while I was at it.

I started off going after the scratches with 1000 grit wet/dry paper. Always sanding "with the grain," I wet sanded the entire revolver, except the top of the barrel and frame, which is matte, with with oil on the paper. Minor nicks and scuffs were quicky removed, but a couple of dings on the sideplate took a bit more elbow grease, but when I was finished almost all all imperfections had disappeared. I was very pleased with the results, however, it was pretty bright and shiny like polished stainless, which, in fact, it had become.

Next I used white scotch-brite pads to dull the finish up a bit, but it didn't seem to work that well, so I went back a grade and used the gray, fine, scotch-brite pads. This worked very well. I went over everything that had been sanded with the 1000 grit paper with the gray pad and it was almost an exact match for a factory finsh, but showed maybe a bit more of the fine scratching and was a bit more dull than the factory finish. Finally I went over all of that with a white pad again and the results are perfect. It looks like a revolver that has had very minimal use and the stainless is identical to other stainless S&W's I have, so I was very pleased with the results.

To finish up, I blasted everything with brake cleaner, rinsed everything off in the parts washer and then blew it dry with compressed air. Since I had also completely cleaned everything and done a light action job all that was left was to reassemble.

I accomplised exactly what I wanted and couldn't be more pleased with the results."


John
 
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