Removing Moly???
- Thread starter cueball
- Start date
The simplest way is to give it several complete cleanings. Moly forms a surface film and can be "scrubbed" out. The stuff is ccomposed of extremely fine particles, it sits in every microscopic flaw and irregularity in the metal.
I just clean the barrel with a product known as "Wipe-Out" a foaming agent that removes everything, on the can it does not mention removal of moly, but it does.
Just fill the barrel let it sit @ room temp (this stuff is temp sensitive doesn't work so well at cooler temps I found out) for 20 minutes or even over night, wipe barrel clean with a brass jag and patches, your done when you don't see anything coming out on the patches, some of my rifles are strictly moly shooters.
Wipe-Out from Sharp Shoot R Precision Products.
Just fill the barrel let it sit @ room temp (this stuff is temp sensitive doesn't work so well at cooler temps I found out) for 20 minutes or even over night, wipe barrel clean with a brass jag and patches, your done when you don't see anything coming out on the patches, some of my rifles are strictly moly shooters.
Wipe-Out from Sharp Shoot R Precision Products.
bullets. i'll try em in that order. thanks guys.
KROIL will not remove moly, thats for sure. What it is excellent for, however, is removing powder fouling while you are doing the initial shooting with moly to get a barrel "plated up", and keep it that way afterwards.
One the barrel is moly'd, I put a single patch with Kroil through the bore after each shooting session, then one dry, then one more wet with Kroil and into the safe.
Have never used a copper solvent once I had a barrel moly'd. My experience is the same as Maynard's, they just do not metal foul anymore, even after many hundreds of rounds, and still going strong.
Ted
One the barrel is moly'd, I put a single patch with Kroil through the bore after each shooting session, then one dry, then one more wet with Kroil and into the safe.
Have never used a copper solvent once I had a barrel moly'd. My experience is the same as Maynard's, they just do not metal foul anymore, even after many hundreds of rounds, and still going strong.
Ted
- Location
- Calgary, AB
I just recently picked up a M700 BDL in .17 Rem, and bought some tungsten-disulfide from these guys.
http://www.lowerfriction.com/packages.php?productID=1
Might be a good alternative to moly.
http://www.lowerfriction.com/packages.php?productID=1
Might be a good alternative to moly.
I normally use WS2, from the site mentioned above, usually 2 parts of ws2 to one part of mos2.
Normally, it eliminates powder fouling outright, or at the very least it reduces it significantly. Still, I will lightly clean my guns every hundred rounds or so - just a couple patches, foam and then dry. Once a year, or after every session if it's a brand new gun, I'll go the whole nine yards with JB and take them right down to the bare steel. From bare steel, I find it normally takes 5 to 20 rounds for it to settle in with coated bullets.
The biggest advantage of moly in my books is that it noticeably reduces the rate at which the barrel heats up. I find I get about 30-50% more shots through it with moly'd bullets than naked. For this reason alone I'd live with the additional hassles of coating bullets, and conditioning barrels with moly.
Normally, it eliminates powder fouling outright, or at the very least it reduces it significantly. Still, I will lightly clean my guns every hundred rounds or so - just a couple patches, foam and then dry. Once a year, or after every session if it's a brand new gun, I'll go the whole nine yards with JB and take them right down to the bare steel. From bare steel, I find it normally takes 5 to 20 rounds for it to settle in with coated bullets.
The biggest advantage of moly in my books is that it noticeably reduces the rate at which the barrel heats up. I find I get about 30-50% more shots through it with moly'd bullets than naked. For this reason alone I'd live with the additional hassles of coating bullets, and conditioning barrels with moly.
