Removing oil from bare walnut stock

oil stain

You can try something like paint thinner or turpintine to lift the oil stain. It (the thinner) shouild evaporate and leave no residue. As far as the sand paper to use before oiling for the final stock finish, start with, say 150, then 220, maybe as high as 320. You may also want to use a wet-n-dry sand paper durring the oiling process to seal the pores of the walnut. With a final rubdown with a soft cloth, hand rubbed.
 
ass a tone:D;) outdoors
150 then 220 , if you use tru oil, get some into the wood @ 150 grit, a polished wood stock will not get as much oil to penetrate
The key is to work in 75-85 deg f, or it will suck. You can stop at satin or continue to a gloss finish, like factory , finda looks like a clear coat.
 
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If it's a stubborn oil stain, you could try a spot treatment of oven cleaner. I've never had to use more than three applications on the nastiest, greasiest milsurp stocks. Just spray on, let sit for a minute or two, and then wipe off with a damp rag. My only advice is to test the stuff on a hidden area of the stock, just to make sure it won't leave any stain of its own.

Erik.
 
Oven cleaner is caustic and is made to remove carbon from enameled steel. It can chemically burn the wood. Mineral spirits(aka varsol) will take out any cosmoline. Not likely to be any on a new unfinished stock though.
 
Another way is to use an ordinary clothes iron (not on steam setting). Place some newsprint type paper (not newspapers, the print will leech into the wood) on the area and heat the paper with the iron. The grease will absorb into the paper. Careful with your heat settings, too much and you could burn or mark the wood.
 
They sell Birchwood Casey Tru-oil at Wholesale Sports in Winnipeg. I picked some up last month, it was about $12 for around 300ml. When you are done using it, turn the bottle upside-down so it sits on the lid. This way you don't have to brake through the skin when you go to use it again, possibly contaminating the oil with grit.
 
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