Removing primers

P

Potasz

CGN Regular
Rating - 100%
80   0   0
Location
GTA
Hey all

How do you remove primers before tumbling
Do you resize and deprime

Or just deprime if so how do you do it

Asking mostly about .223 and wet tumbling

Thanks
K
 
gewehr76 said:
Throw in with primers, then when they are clean lube cases deprime and resize at the same time. Clean primer pockets for reliable ignition after.
You are done for next steps, priming and so forth.
Click to expand...

SS tumbling yields me some very clean primer pockets without having to manually clean the primer pocket - which is why I deprime before tumbling.
 
I leave primers in for tumbling because I HATE poking out media from the flash holes. Re-size and de-cap afterwards. The universal de-capping die is still handy to have though.
 
illae said:
SS tumbling yields me some very clean primer pockets without having to manually clean the primer pocket - which is why I deprime before tumbling.
Click to expand...

+1. I don't get a lot of brass where pins get stuck in the flash hole (say that fast with a lisp). The odd one in hundreds is worth it to me.
 
I've often thought about SS tumbling but I'm not keen on the wet tumbling method. I uniform the primer pockets after each firing anyway so having clean pockets after tumbling would be lost on me.
 
illae said:
What type of media are you using? I wet tumble with stainless steel pins.
Click to expand...

The dry media type such as corn cob or walnut shells. I wish there was a dry media available that was just large enough not to plug the primer pockets and flash holes. It doesn't happen all the time mind you but enough for me to tumble before depriming.
 
The crushed walnut shells used for industrial deburring of plastic parts etc., are the same as that used for lizard bedding. Acquired a part bag, for free, years ago. Got an unfinished C7 forestock too.
Doesn't really matter what order you de-prime. As mentioned, tumbling after does both, cleans the pockets and attracts the media. Haven't cleaned chemically myself for eons. Adds another step. So does having to remove the clotted media in the pockets though. No free lunch when reloading.
Uniforming the pockets is only done once, if you bother with it at all. Doesn't make any difference if you do it or not. It's a bench rest technique
 
I used to use the Lyman media, and got flash holes with a bit of media stuck in them. Is witched to using ground walnut shells from Princess Auto. about $28 for 50 pounds. It is ground quite fine and have never had any media stuck in the hole.

That said, I usually tumble before sizing (primer in) to make brass nice and clean before sizing.
 
Lee universal decapping for Wet, SS tumbling. Resizing dirty brass may damage your sizer.
Leave the primer in for walnut/corn dry tumbling.

Actually prefer dry tumbling, so much easier without the water mess, can set and forget. Wet tumbling does a great job, had 1F 44Mag that was dry tumble for 3 hours, had to lube to size, wet tumbling for 3 hours, smooth sizing without lube.
 
Seconding (or thirding?) the notion of using a universal decapping die.

I actually have an entirely separate press for decapping. I picked up a cheap Lee new for like $30 or something, and the decapping die was another $20. The press is mounted on a board that I can quickly bolt to my workstation and then remove afterward. I do this because I hate how much the primer crap fouls the ram arm of my more expensive Hornady press.

After decapping, all of the cases go into a big bucket with dish soap for a quick hand-wash before they are lubed and resized.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom