Removing Squib

M

maka

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Southern Ontario
Well I guess it is bound to happen. Got a squib in my M&P 9mm.

Slow firing just testing my loads and pop!!! Holy crap was it hard to get out. I had to drill a hole in the bullet and then hammer it out. What do you guys use??
 
Sooner or later it happens to all of us.Ive found that putting a penetrating oil(WD40) behind the bullet,let stand for a few hours,muzzle down,and then using a "squib" rod(usually a fairly tight fitting brass rod),has the bullet out,no problems.Usually force the bullet back into the breech area,and not forwards to the muzzle.Shouldnt need to put a drill in your barrel for that!
 
Used two brass rods both didn't work, used aluminum rod as well. Put barrel in vice and used a small wood bit in my drill press just to take out the heart of the bullet to relieve pressure. Came out with a wooden dowel after that.

I appreciate your concern though.

thanks
 
Secure it muzzle down and put a fair amount of Hoppes #9 in teh barrel. Go away, someplace.
Next day use a, preferrably brass, rod and tap it out. I'm assuming a jacketed bullet. Even a wooden dowel that just fits the barrel should do it.
 
i use a wrapped steel rod- 11/32 diameter, and 1 wrap of electricians tape brings it out pretty close to 355( 9mm) and about a foot long- and a brass hammer- that way it also clears for any revolvers i have
 
not that i would recomend this, but i know a fellow who took about a quarter of the powder out of a cartridge, jammed the case full of paper, and drove a bullet that was stuck just at the start of the lands out, he was able to keep hunting that way..
 
I do not reload yet, but I was wondering what was wrong with the above?
Just using a cartridge with everything except the bullet and firing that to pop out the bullet in the barrel?
 
pie1 said:
I do not reload yet, but I was wondering what was wrong with the above?
Just using a cartridge with everything except the bullet and firing that to pop out the bullet in the barrel?
Click to expand...

Basically you have a new cartridge in the chamber and a barrel obstruction. As I understand it, the pressure wave moving up the barrel can act almost like a solid object and when it hits the obstruction you get a bang that can rupture the barrel.

It might be possible to come up with a load that can safely build pressure slowly enough to do what you suggest. I'm going to stick with a rod and a hammer and all the rest of anatomy intact myself though. Not worth the risk.
 
I have removed hundreds of stuck bullets in rifles and pistols. I use a primed case with about half the usual amount of powder, and fire the gun, aimed straight up. Usually works on first shot. With revolvers, because of gas leak at cylinder gap, may have to try again with 3/4 the powder charge.

Have not seen any damage, nor have I seen any documented evidense of a risk.

Pounding rods into barrels can cause damage. Have seen that happen a number of times.
 
Strange. :confused: I've seen a lot of pistol squibs on the range. I have yet to see one we couldn't clear at the range with a brass rod and hammer - sometimes a brass rod and a rock, though.
 
I've been told once that there are 2 kinds of reloaders:

-those who have had a squib
-those who will have a squib
 
Ganderite said:
I have removed hundreds of stuck bullets in rifles and pistols. I use a primed case with about half the usual amount of powder, and fire the gun, aimed straight up. Usually works on first shot. With revolvers, because of gas leak at cylinder gap, may have to try again with 3/4 the powder charge.
Have not seen any damage, nor have I seen any documented evidense of a risk.
Click to expand...

This practice has some risk attached to it. While it works most times, on occasion, it will "Ring" the barrel right at the obstruction [bullet] I have seen two such incidents in my lifetime, so I do know it can happen. This is somewhat akin to not seating the patched ball right down tight in a muzzle loader. This also can "ring" the barrel, and with black powder, the frequency of ringing is higher. Regards, Eagleye.
 
charles.emond said:
I've been told once that there are 2 kinds of reloaders:

-those who have had a squib
-those who will have a squib
Click to expand...


Oh man, I just started reloading. The learning curve is steep.
However I just returned from the range and got my first MOA grouping with my .204 and relaods. I wasn't even using a rest just laying on the table. I think santa put a "lead sled under the tree for me.
 
Using a cartridge (even half full) to expel a squib is dangerous business. Use a brass rod and a hammer. Just because something "worked" does not make it a safe practice.

do not be in a hurry when reloading and you probably wont get squibs
 
My reloads are all lead and i carry a 3/8 and 5/16 hardwood dowel about 14" long in the bottom of my shootin bag. I haven't had to use it. (yet) but have used the 3/8 one to take out a .45 lead stuck just forward of the chamber.
Andy
 
I have used a wooden dowel, the size of the bore to drive out a couple of squibs, on others firearms.
I keep a couple of diameter sizes handy in the box in the car
I've been loading for a number of years and haven't had a squib yet, but I'm sure it's only a matter of time.
(Likely the next time I'm out after writing this!)
 
I had a whole batch of 44 mag that was flaky (thanks to my Lee 1000 and it's fubared autodisk powder dispenser) About 1 out of 5 had no powder. A buddy of mine and I spend the afternoon wacking out squibs with an oak dowel. They're cheap. They're easy to get. They're easy to use. The hardest oak won't damage a barrel. If you break one or mush the end....just cut another one. For $20 at Home Depot, you can have a lifetime supply for pretty much every caliber you own.
 
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