Removing Squib

Sorry, but it is more than the Lee Loader FUBAR'ed to have actually load 20% squibs.

I later discovered that about 1 out of 5 times the press cycled, the autodisk wouldn't retract far enough to let powder drop. I'd added extra springs and changed the bloody chain more times than I could count. It got worse and worse over time and eventually it wouldn't retract at all. I tried a few things but is just kept jamming. I retired it after that and eventually sold it. Good bye and good riddance.
 
Yup, using a progressive, a guy has gotta find a point at which he can visually inspect the powder charge and the bullet alignment/seating for each case. Goes a lot slower, but saves the waste of time loading a few hundred, travelling to a match, paying entry fees, hotel, gas, and meals, and blowing a match for a squib. Or, missing a freezer full of meat, or other, more serious consequences of failure to charge!
 
I have removed dozens of stuck pistol bullets by filling the barrel behind the bullet with water and firing a primer only behind it. Only occasionally, and then it was with jacketed bullets, it would require more than one try. It never ringed any of my thin .45 auto barrels. Water is not compressible, and the pressure created from the primer is mild so there is no way the barrel could be damaged, where as when a bullet is driven out with a brass rod, where I assume that the muzzle is placed on some sort of hard surface or if pounding the bullet towards the chamber could be exposed to an errant hammer blow, the crown could be damaged. Water and a primer is safe, fast, and easy.
 
"...Pounding rods into barrels can cause damage..." Neither brass nor Al will hurt steel.
"...that can rupture the barrel..." Or bulge it.
 
My first reloader was a Lee, I would get a lot of primer pop (squib) after one dbl charge the Lee went in the garbage. Got a Dillon never looked back
 
I made a squib rod. Bought a piece of brass and cut a little bit out of the center of it on a lathe. Bought a big wood ball (think it was for a fence post cap) drilled a hole in the ball and epoxied it in. Works like a charm and don't have to hammer on it.
 
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