Removing stock from #4 Enfield

Big Guy

Big Guy

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Ok I am a rookie at this. I want to re-blue my #4 (mixmaster) enfield
I want to know how to get it apart, and then back together. I have removed the front sight protectors, front barrel band, front sling swivel band, this allows me to take off the upper two forestock pieces. I removed a screw from in front of the mag. this didn't release the bottom fore stock as I expected it would , what else is holding it?Thats as far as I went I didn't want to try forcing anything and cracking something. If I remove the butt plate are there screws/bolts holding every thing together? Step by step instructions would be appreciated
 
The rear trigger guard screw has to be removed as well. DO NOT try to take the buttstock off before removing the forestock, or you will RUIN your forestock. After the forend is off, you need a long screwdriver to get into the compartment in the buttstock and remove the screw.

http://www.nrapublications.org/tar/LeeEnfield4Rifle.asp

Scroll down to disassembly.

http://ca.youtube.com/watch?v=CjYG7WHaXWk&feature=related

This video is of the SMLE, but may be some help, or, something interesting to watch.
 
Big Guy said:
Ok I am a rookie at this. I want to re-blue my #4 (mixmaster) enfield
I want to know how to get it apart, and then back together. I have removed the front sight protectors, front barrel band, front sling swivel band, this allows me to take off the upper two forestock pieces. I removed a screw from in front of the mag. this didn't release the bottom fore stock as I expected it would , what else is holding it?Thats as far as I went I didn't want to try forcing anything and cracking something. If I remove the butt plate are there screws/bolts holding every thing together? Step by step instructions would be appreciated
Click to expand...

The big trigger guard screw should have a lock washer under the head and there is a tubular bushing under the trigger guard in the wood- don't lose these pieces.
Make sure you use good fitting screwdrivers, don't bugger any heads. Don't force anything either, it will come apart easily when the right stuff is out of the way.

While apart, give the wood a good rub with BLO over a few days.

You need a massive slotted screwdriver for the buttstock, might as well pony up for one. I just bought a new one, the huge Canadian made :))) long slotted driver at Sears for about 10 bucks.
If the screwdriver won't go into the slot, there might be one of those fibre washers in there, which you'll have to fish out.
 
When removing the but stock you want need to get a pair of vice grips on the screw driver so you can apply downward pressure on the screwdriver with one hand and unscrew the bolt with the other hand. You'll have to hold the gun with your knees, barrel down of course.

As others have said, you'll need the biggest slot head screw driver you can buy at home hardware or crappy tire. I think mine is black and about 12" long. (no comments please :) )

Some times they take a bit of force to get out and you do not want to strip the head. If you do, your in for a battle to get it out.

If your going to strip the existing bluing, (if it is blued), muriatic acid works best but you'd beetr know what you doing with it if you use it.

If you have to remove suncorite, (black paint), paint stripper does loosen it up a wee bit, but be prepared to have to use elbow grease and lots of steel wool.
 
Thanks guys
I should be able to get it apart now. I do have proper screw drivers. I never thought of using muriatic acid to remove the old blue but thats a good tip. I'll know more of what i'll do once i get it all apart.
I knew the experts here would steer me right. Ask first and a little knowledge can save you from big screw ups.
 
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:cheers:

Check the Technical Articles for Milsurp Collectors and Re-loaders (click here)http://www.milsurps.com/forumdisplay.php?f=25

With thanks to dimitri, here's a FREE excellent scanned publication that everyone should have stored on their computer, which provides complete instructions on assembly and disassembly of almost every milsurp made.

a_basic_manual_of_military_small_arms.pdf.jpg


Basic Manual of Military Small Arms by W.H.B. Smith (Expired Copyright 1943) (click here)http://www.milsurps.com/showthread.php?t=1122

Regards,
Badger
 
Just a small add. There should be a leather washer in the buttstock to keep the oil bottle from rattling. You will have to hook that out with a bent coathanger or you will never get the screwdriver in the screw slot.

Oh by the way removing the forend first only applies to No1Mk3's The reason being that early models had a square end on the buttstock bolt that locked into a keeper on the forend to keep it from working loose. Removing the butt stock first on those rifles would split the forend. You can never be certain which SMLE has that arrangement, so it's best to play it safe and remove the forend first.
 
All of the advise on removing the butt stock are valid and good. In addition, I found that it can really be a bugger to get it off the action. I found that putting the barreled action into a padded vise helped a lot. I also found that while applying pressure on the screwdriver, tapping the back of the screwdriver with a hammer while trying to twist it, usually helped getting the screw undone as well. Good luck with your project :wave:
 
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