I have a Ruger 22/45 Lite that I want to remove the loaded chamber indicator from. It's held in place by what's referred too as a slip fit pin, although it feels like it was slipped in by a full windmill swing of an eight pound sledge. Tandemkross indicates that with the Lite version of the 22/45 a drill press sometimes must be used to remove the pin but gives no more info than that. Anyone know what I would do with a drill press to get the pin out? Is this something I could have a machine shop do as I don't even own a drill press.
Removing stuck pin.
- Thread starter skookumchuck
- Start date
With a steel receiver I'd say just rap the action smartly on a block of soft wood to use inertia to bump the pin out. But in the case of the allow Lite version I'd want to be a lot more gentle.
I'd start with blasting the pin's end hole and generally around the LCI both inside and out with fairly generous use of brake cleaner. It may be stuck in place from some fouling. Blast it, let the fluid soak for a half minute and blast it again. Repeat for 5 or 6 hits from the can with short pauses between. The stuff WILL jet back and hit you in the face so do wear safety glasses and possibly do the blasting from the can with your hands and the parts all inside a large clear plastic bag to catch the splash back.
Once you're there I'd try a small super magnet to see if you can tease the pin out. You may need to work the LCI while doing this to remove the spring pressure of the indicator arm pressing against the pin. With it neatly cleaned by the cleaner you should be able to feel this when pressing lightly against the LCI arm. The idea here being to find out how to press against the arm in such a way that you remove the force from the spring pushing against the pin and just barely do that. It'll take a light touch in just the right place to find this sweet spot.
If it still won't come out I'm not sure what a good next step would be and likely I'd just live with the LCI in place. I sure don't like the sounds of that drill press removal method.
I'd start with blasting the pin's end hole and generally around the LCI both inside and out with fairly generous use of brake cleaner. It may be stuck in place from some fouling. Blast it, let the fluid soak for a half minute and blast it again. Repeat for 5 or 6 hits from the can with short pauses between. The stuff WILL jet back and hit you in the face so do wear safety glasses and possibly do the blasting from the can with your hands and the parts all inside a large clear plastic bag to catch the splash back.
Once you're there I'd try a small super magnet to see if you can tease the pin out. You may need to work the LCI while doing this to remove the spring pressure of the indicator arm pressing against the pin. With it neatly cleaned by the cleaner you should be able to feel this when pressing lightly against the LCI arm. The idea here being to find out how to press against the arm in such a way that you remove the force from the spring pushing against the pin and just barely do that. It'll take a light touch in just the right place to find this sweet spot.
If it still won't come out I'm not sure what a good next step would be and likely I'd just live with the LCI in place. I sure don't like the sounds of that drill press removal method.
Ruger stuff is like that. The MBA's running the place are terrified of more law suits so everything is battened down with nuclear powered tools.
Ruger's manual claims these are the only tools you need. HAHAHAHAHA. I'd use a brass rod instead of a dowel. And no mention of any further disassembly. They really don't want anybody doing it.
"(1) a soft rubber/plastic mallet. (2) a paper clip. and (3) a wooden dowel (1/8” - 1/4” diameter)."
Anyway, press fit pins need punches to get out. Put the thing in a vise and tap with a plastic mallet.
Ruger's manual claims these are the only tools you need. HAHAHAHAHA. I'd use a brass rod instead of a dowel. And no mention of any further disassembly. They really don't want anybody doing it.
"(1) a soft rubber/plastic mallet. (2) a paper clip. and (3) a wooden dowel (1/8” - 1/4” diameter)."
Anyway, press fit pins need punches to get out. Put the thing in a vise and tap with a plastic mallet.
Guys, the pin in question is sitting in a blind hole. It's not the usual sort of pin you find pressed into place with both ends showing. There's no option to push it out from the other end unless a hole is drilled into the receiver. And if that's what the "drill press option" is then it would be better to simply live with the LCR in place. It's not that big a deal.
The pin in question is supposed to have a loose sort of fit and come out with the attraction from a magnet. But in removing mine from the steel guns I found that I had to press lightly against the LCI as I described above to allow the magnet to lift the pin.
The pin in question is supposed to have a loose sort of fit and come out with the attraction from a magnet. But in removing mine from the steel guns I found that I had to press lightly against the LCI as I described above to allow the magnet to lift the pin.
Thanks for the advise. BCRider is right, it's a blind hole with no punch option. The gun is a replacement for one that wouldn't cycle properly in spite of a wealth of great advise from BCRider and I wanted to remove the LCI before I even tried it. I guess I should really give it a chance before attempting to modify it. 'rider, have you removed one from a "Lite" version?
No, just the two from my steel Mk III's. They both came out easily with just the tapping against the block of wood as I mentioned. I didn't even play with the indicator paddle to take the spring tension off the pins.
I seem to recall that this topic turned up on Rimfire Central. Something about the anodizing causing the hole to close up a little and they didn't use a bigger size drill to compensate for this? A search there should turn something up.
I seem to recall that this topic turned up on Rimfire Central. Something about the anodizing causing the hole to close up a little and they didn't use a bigger size drill to compensate for this? A search there should turn something up.
