Repairing a cracked Glock Frame

I'm guessing JB weld would probably work as a temporary hack, OP just need to stop the spread of the crack further, as the rail behind it is still integral. The gun would probably still function even if you cut off the entire dust cover before the slide rail.

Definitely get new RSA, and may be also invest in a small accessory called Glock recoil buffer, it goes in front of the U shaped area. I always thought that thing is a gimmick, but looks like it might mitigate some of the impact in your case.
 
You might be able to fix it with a hot staple or mesh reinforced hot weld if the plastic is not contaminated with glue but its honestly a bad idea. I would only do it for myself and the tools are prohibitively expensive. nylon requires drying and a nitrogen rich environment to weld properly.

polyvance.com
 
GerardSamija said:
Are these areas already rather sloppily glued with something grey? Or is that grease? Or am I misreading the images, and these are not the areas of interest in terms of damage? If the one on the left is glue partially filling a gap... well, that would be some of the worst assembly quality control I've ever witnessed in a firearm. Hoping to be schooled on this one, as if people are shooting these things when they're built to such low quality standards, I'm amazed more aren't flying apart in shooters' hands.
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The grey area is the torn out fiber reinforced nylon.

Personally, I'd chase Glock down for the long term, for the short, a new recoil spring and the buffer that was suggested in a post above, and carry on. If it doesn't get worse in use, with a new spring and a buffer, then the part isn't getting hit, eh? You could dab some liquid paper or other paint as a telltale to indicate when the slide starts striking, and monitor in use.

There are some really good epoxies out there, but on average, unless you are involved in Aviation or other composite structure repairs, you probably will never see them, let alone figure that they are worth the prices. They also tend to have expiry dates on the packages too, after which the Manufacturer will no longer certify the stuff as fit to use.
 
trevj said:
The grey area is the torn out fiber reinforced nylon.
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That is correct - The grey area is the torn out fiber reinforced nylon.

As far as dealing with Glock - As I've already said, I've already been trying to do that with no success.

As far as trying to epoxy it - I'm out of other options. Its either try that or throw it in the back of the safe in a baggie and forget about it.

Have gotten PMs from other Glock owners at CGN who said this has happened to their G22 frame so not an uncommon problem.
 
PSE said:
I have a Glock Gen 2 frame that has cracked under the pounding of the 40 S&W cartridge. The plastic lugs where the slide hits have cracked and I don't think it will last if I keep shooting this pistol. This has happened after <5000 rounds.

Since Glock Warranty Canada refuses to do anything for me except ignore me I have decided to try to effect a repair myself.
Nothing ventured - nothing gained.

My question is - Would JB weld epoxy be a good attempt to fix this? I could try to insert some 2 part epoxy into the cracks and squeeze them together and let it cure for a couple of days. I've had good luck in the past fixing other issues using JB Weld.
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Glock Canada is a complete joke. Don’t know if they can help but you might want to contact Black Box Customs.
 
It is my understanding that Glock frames are made of glass fibre reinforced nylon 66. Shave some off the framer somewhere and use it to plastic weld the repair. Glock 22’s have a bad rep. for durability, unlike their 9mm’s.
 
Why are people still suggesting repairs? Glock REDESIGNED the gun because of this issue. Any repair will just fail again, and likely so quickly as to make the excercise pointless. Even a perfect repair won't stop the locking block from trying to rotate and stressing the same spot. The only way out of this is a time machine to prevent use of full pressure .40 or to convert it to 9mm.
 
B said:
Why are people still suggesting repairs? Glock REDESIGNED the gun because of this issue. Any repair will just fail again, and likely so quickly as to make the excercise pointless. Even a perfect repair won't stop the locking block from trying to rotate and stressing the same spot. The only way out of this is a time machine to prevent use of full pressure .40 or to convert it to 9mm.
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I have to somewhat agree but at the least Glock should admit that using the existing 9mm frame (G17 and G19) as the basis for building 40 cal (G22 and G23) was a huge engineering mistake done hastily, that ended up causing Glock owners grief down the road and then compensate them in some fashion would be the right thing to do.

To just cut them adrift is not right. Acknowledge that an error was made and initiate an engineering recall or even offer to convert existing guns to 9mm would be decent. Industry initiates recalls all the time on many other products, why is this any different?

Right now I'm out at least couple of thousand bucks when you include gun, upgraded sights, 2 holsters, mags and ammo purchased. Yeah, I'm a little pissed, especially when Glock Warranty Canada doesn't even want to acknowledge me.

My only option now is to do what in all likelihood is a futile repair (as many posters have rightly indicated) or pack it up as a safe queen and part out the rest.
 
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I didn't say you shouldn't try to deal with Glock on this. If you are being ignored that doesn't bode well though. Regardless of how long it has been it's a known issue and as you said it's also their fault. You'd think they would help you somehow, one way or another.
 
Reeferman said:
Was this issue fixed in gen 3 and above?
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Change was made during the Gen "2.5" release. Some non-.40 models took a while longer though. The only reason 9mms were given a third pin was a matter of logistics. Easier to make them all the same. FWIW Gen 5 guns, including the somewhat rare .40s, no longer have the third pin.
 
B said:
Change was made during the Gen "2.5" release. Some non-.40 models took a while longer though. The only reason 9mms were given a third pin was a matter of logistics. Easier to make them all the same. FWIW Gen 5 guns, including the somewhat rare .40s, no longer have the third pin.
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FWIW - My Gen 2 has the third pin - didn't seem to make any difference.
 
PSE said:
FWIW - My Gen 2 has the third pin - didn't seem to make any difference.
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Since I missed it or you never said otherwise I assumed it was a straight two pin frame. In that case having it fail at 5000 more or less is also weird. Any handloads that may have been too much..?

If not I would guess you just ended up being unlucky. Don't give up on warranty, even if they won't replace it maybe something can be done. Sometimes it's a matter of being such a nuisance they want you to go away...
 
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B said:
Since I missed it or you never said otherwise I assumed it was a straight two pin frame. In that case having it fail at 5000 more or less is also weird. Any handloads that may have been too much..?

If not I would guess you just ended up being unlucky. Don't give up on warranty, even if they won't replace it maybe something can be done. Sometimes it's a matter of being such a nuisance they want you to go away...
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Yeah I guess that's what I'm hoping - that someone connected with Glock Canada will maybe read this thread and get something moving before Bill C21 is the law of the land and no more transfers are allowed.
 
PSE said:
Yeah I guess that's what I'm hoping - that someone connected with Glock Canada will maybe read this thread and get something moving before Bill C21 is the law of the land and no more transfers are allowed.
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Can you track down a Polymer 80 frame on short notice? If so...

Got anyone flying and fixing helicopters near you? EA 934 is a Locktite product, that has a pretty decent (for glue) shear strength of around 5800 psi, with a long working time, or can be accelerated by adding heat, a 100w light bulb placed close, would work. Talk to the repair guys that do composites, and see if you can scrounge or buy a small amount, or some expired stuff.

If I were doing this for me, I'd get some measured amounts of the resin and hardener, some syringes from the local Pharmacy, along with a couple large gage short needles, and make up a couple wooden blocks and wedges, to use to press the displaced material back into (almost) place.
Some contact cleaner to clear away any oils on the surfaces.

Mix the epoxy, fill a syringe (using a small plastic bag as a piping bag works). Use the needle on the syringe to slowly squeeze some epoxy mix in to the voids behind the cracks. Wedge the displaced material back with the wedges and blocks. Put it someplace warm for a week, or at as near to 93 C for an hour. Scrape off remnants with an eye towards not bothering to remove what isn't in the way of things moving around.

https://www.ellsworth.com/products/...e-hysol-ea-934na-epoxy-adhesive-50-g-e-z-pak/ Some research may find a better adhesive, but 934 is one I have used a lot in the past.

Those two ears on the damaged portion are just to keep whatever is hitting them, from mangling the steel inserts for the slide to ride on, yeah? If a new slide spring and buffer will stop it from happening, I'm not seeing much in the way of potential consequences. Broken and repaired, seems to me better than still broken. Anyways. Just putting that out there.
 
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