Resetting a scope to factory zero

FatCatsDad

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Found this article, it works, I tried it in some spare scopes I have.
Takes about 15 seconds

Here’s How You Can Reset Your Scope?

Mirror Method

1. Put your scope flush with the mirror

2. Line up the shadow of the reticle with the reticle itself

Resetting to factory zero means lining up the shadow of the crosshairs with the reticle itself, which is done by adjusting the elevation and windage turrets. There is no specific way to complete this step, but it is more trial-by-fire. Keep adjusting the turrets to get the shadow and reticle aligned.
 
What's the purpose in achieving a factory reset when it comes to eventually making the scope adjustments so that you hit what you're aiming at?

The mechanical center of a scope is moot, unless it's mounted with a system that can put the center close to POI. Burris Signature Zee rings with offset inserts, for example, allow a scope that's run out of adjustment in elevation or windage or both to be mounted so it's close to center.

Of course, if a scope is frequently swapped between rifles, it may make zeroing it a little quicker. On the other hand, notes on scope adjustments from one rifle to the next may achieve a quick and trouble-free swap as well.
 
Is (or was) a thought at one time that is better to have cross hair in dead centre of optics in the scope - back in the day when people would fuss with grinding or shimming mounts to get scope set onto rifle to be close - only minor turret adjustment (if any) needed for final "0". But sounds correct - if scope today going to end up with 11 clicks Right and 7 clicks Down from "centre" to be zeroed on that rifle, is not much value to finding zero before mounting it. Is probably based on modern idea that bases and rings made by bulk and are "close enough", versus the ones made precisely for that scope and that rifle. Is an older German made scope here with no windage turret - an acquaintance has a Bausch and Lomb scope that has no turrets - neither Windage nor Elevation - all was meant to be "adjusted" with the external mounting system that was used - or to fit the bases and rings when installed, so that no adjustment would be required.
 
Or you could just max the turret adjustment one way then back again the other direction, count the revolutions and back to center splitting the difference, that’s what I do, never thought about using a mirror.
 
Interesting smithing hack. But, I can't understand the benefit of why someone would to go back to the factory zero on a scope.

It has to be re-zeroed when its installed onto a rifle.

Seems like a moot and unnecessary procedure.
 
It doesn't work with higher quality glass. The coating prevents glare - and prevents reflection back into the tube.

With my new models of quality leupold I found that holding the scope to a very well lit bathroom mirror will work. The visual on the two cross hairs is still not very strong but enough to impose one cross hair over the other bringing the scope back to zero.
 
Or you could just max the turret adjustment one way then back again the other direction, count the revolutions and back to center splitting the difference, that’s what I do, never thought about using a mirror.

I lost count at almost 200 clicks with no end sight
 
Or you could just max the turret adjustment one way then back again the other direction, count the revolutions and back to center splitting the difference, that’s what I do, never thought about using a mirror.

Yup.
Then when you have your scope mounted and your bore sight plugged in you can fine tewn'er using the bore sight pattern.
 
It seems to me to be a waste of time.. what does it matter where the scope adjustments are when a scope is not in use, and not mounted on a rifle?
 
It seems to me to be a waste of time.. what does it matter where the scope adjustments are when a scope is not in use, and not mounted on a rifle?


I wanted to do it on a used scope I got before mounting it.
Thought it would give me a better chance on hitting paper at 50yds.
 
I wanted to do it on a used scope I got before mounting it.
Thought it would give me a better chance on hitting paper at 50yds.

What I found on a Cooey 60. Commercial side mount on the receiver visibly pointed that scope in different direction than the barrel was pointed. So needed shimming on the mount to get both looking in same direction - then bore sight, then sight in. That Cooey shot fine with barrel mounted front and rear barrel sights - barrel was not in line with that receiver, though. Position of cross hairs at the start was about irrelevant in that instance. If any top mounting holes drilled / tapped a thou or two left or right, or bases just smidgeon different one side to other, etc. - makes difference which way the bases are installed - and then I suppose rings can vary as well. I have had pretty ugly experience with likely inexpensive bore sighters, so I no longer use them - "hitting paper" is done with BIG paper - actually cardboard from shipping boxes - 24" x 24" and the target stand like 15 or 20 yards ahead of the shooting bench.
 
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I wanted to do it on a used scope I got before mounting it.
Thought it would give me a better chance on hitting paper at 50yds.

If you are blindly shooting it, it should be on a 3 foot square target at 25 yards... get it on for windage and about 1 inch low before shooting at 100 yards.

Bolt actions can be lined up by looking through the bore at the target and adjusting the scope.
 
When I change scopes or buy a used one I always bring the scope back to zero before mounting. After I've levelled the scope square to the rifle I insert my bore sighter into the muzzle and finish the fine tuning prior to the range. If I have the same caliber in another rifle that's accurately sighted in I bore sight it and use the same position on the next install.
 
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