Resetting a scope to factory zero

I mean, if you have a bunch of spare time and don't know what to do with it...?

What guntech said. Bore sight the rifle with the scope mounted, then take it to the range. If you don't have a bore sighter and refuse to buy one (they're cheap, and really make the zeroing process a lot easier), shoot close with a big sheet of paper. There's no reason to dink with a scope before it's on a rifle.
 
Not sure why I'd bother. When it comes time to mount the scope on a new rifle just mount the damned thing, level it, adjust the eye relief and then pull the bolt and bore sight it through the bore. If you can't bore sight it in this fashion (ie it's a semi or a lever) then either use a traditional bore sighter or just take it out to the range and shoot it at 25 yards first against a large back stop.
 
About the only time I bother centering adjustments is when mounting a scope on a rifle with windage adjustable bases. Since I hate those it seldom comes up anymore.

I’ve ever had any luck with the mirror method. Just turn the turret or dial all the way to one side lightly; then count the revolutions and left over minutes to the other side, then go back by half. When mounting the scope, bore-sight the scope useing the windage screws then proceed normally.

Not to mch use getting too precise about it; its a rifle scope not the space shuttle. Its not going remain there anyway.
 
If you want to zero or check for zero of your reticle in an ‘image moving’ scope …. You can use a stiff cardboard shoe box (or plastic box if you want to cut the plastic) cut two ‘V’s on opposite sides of the box and lay your scope tube in the ‘V’s … then follow the advice here:
https://www.americanrifleman.org/content/rifleman-q-a-centering-crosshairs/

the reason its a good idea to ‘mechanically’ centre the reticle and then attempt to get your scope zero’d on a target with the mounts (if possible) is because it is not uncommon for windage and elevation adjustments in a scope to not respond linearly when adjustments are made at the limits of their travel.
 
If I'm changing scopes from one rifle to another, I do the 'Mirror Thing' because I might have needed to 'clik-a-lot' to get zero on rifle #1. I don't want to 'start' at that point, especially if I need to clik a lot again. Different mounts, barrels and scope need to be individually addressed. Starting with a "True Scope Zero" simplifies the process, I believe. I shoot at varying distances and often want that additional 'adjust-ability'. It only takes 5-minutes and is simple and painless.
 
There is such a thing as windage-adjustable bases and windage-adjustable rings. I get that if a person is using bases and rings that are not adjustable for windage the value of starting with a centered reticle seems murky, but what if a person is using windage adjustable bases and/or windage adjustable rings? In such a case, wouldn't it make sense to you then?
 
If you optically center your scope before mounting it you can see how far out of alignment your rings,bases etc. are.
I have bought used scopes that were cranked most of the way in one direction or another, it was worth centering them before mounting them.
 
Wendell said:
There is such a thing as windage-adjustable bases and windage-adjustable rings. I get that if a person is using bases and rings that are not adjustable for windage the value of starting with a centered reticle seems murky, but what if a person is using windage adjustable bases and/or windage adjustable rings? In such a case, wouldn't it make sense to you then?
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Yes, makes most sense to do then - there is Leupold STD with windage adjust in base-to-rear ring connection, and various ARXX Parker Hale rings that have integral windage adjustment within the rings. Is an old time optics thing that best performance is with the lenses and reticle at dead centre - with most modern scope bases / rings, is not likely where you end up. For sure is important to do (to get reticle in centre) if you are shimming or milling to get bases to fit or are making the rings or bases to be close to alignment with rifle - not many do that any more. Is also probably a good idea, if using those Burris rings with eccentric inserts to get close to alignment, when installing the scope.

Is a thing though - eventually you have to shoot a rifle on targets to know or prove it is sighted in - that the scope reticle is pointed where the bullets end up - nothing else "proves" that - bore sighting certainly does not. I have come to believe that perhaps last bullet length in barrel, and muzzle condition, has MUCH to do with where the bullet will go. The other length of the barrel is just for building up speed - I think.
 
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What exactly is the point in doing this? I just throw the scope on the rifle, level it off and take it to the range for zero. I personally do not even waste my time with bore sighting. Get some trigger time in and walk those impacts in! 90% of the time I am where I need to be in 5 rounds or less @ 50 yards. Then just adjust from there and zero at your preferred distance. IMO anything more is a waste of time.
 
Factory settings are 'usually OK' but a used scope should be 'centered'. Bolt and go is OK for 22s but Centerfire at $1-2 per shot I like to know where it's going to go b4 I shoot. If the used scope was Z'd for one rifle it likely is not OK for the next one.
 
Buck1950 said:
Factory settings are 'usually OK' but a used scope should be 'centered'. Bolt and go is OK for 22s but Centerfire at $1-2 per shot I like to know where it's going to go b4 I shoot. If the used scope was Z'd for one rifle it likely is not OK for the next one.
Click to expand...

Very true. My Z’d scope off one rifle couldn’t give me enough elevation on a different rifle so I “centered” the scope and remounted it with Burris shimmed Zee rings, boresited it close enough with the included ring shims and then fired it and had enough scope adjustment to get sighted in properly.
 
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