Hi guys this is my problem. I have reloaded for this rifle for a short time {Norinco AR 15} no problems. I have a single stage Lee O press and a Lyman Spartans single stage. Hornady new dimension dies { bought used} RCBS shell holder. I bought a new Remington 700 SPS varmit. Shot some factory rounds, went home and made up some cartridges and then it started. Bolt would not close on almost all the rounds i made. So i go to the local gun shop showed them the cartridges and they would not work in the guns at the store. He said i did not resize the case completely. So home i go, now i check and adjust the shell holder so it touches the die. Grab some cases lube resize, check overall lenght ok specs are 1.760 max. Now just the case it self in the gun will not allow the bolt to close. So down to the club shoot 20 factory rounds. Come home try the brass in the gun before resizing they fit ok. I resize 1 case complete works in rifle, i lube every 2nd case 2nd case bolt is tight to close { case looks fine}. AHHH so i lube every one. Now too much lube i have small dents on the neck of the case. The brass is once fired Remington, the others is stuff i have reloaded before. The cartridges i load are not too hot, powder IMR 4320 24 grs at 2800 fps. WTF is going on? Befoe the Remington i would have shot all of it. I did not change my procedure. Now i,m a little worried about shooting it in th AR. My question is help what have i done wrong am i over looking something? Should i buy a new die set, are Remington chambers tight but ok in a AR ? I know it is hard to give exact advice on what i have said. I have a Hornady manual, just bought neck size die for Remington rifle. My concern is for the AR and me. I would appreciate any hep thanks AGE
Resizing 223 problem
- Thread starter age
- Start date
Clean off a case that is tight to close. Make sure no lube is on it.
Now get a heavy 'sharpie" marker and run a line down from the case opening down about a quart inch lower than the shoulder onto the case.
WHILE THE INK IS WET, try to chamber the case in the offending rifle. Remove the tight case and observe where the ink is missing.
I'm thinking your shoulder has been pushed forward.
Get back to us on the results of the ink test.
Mike.
Now get a heavy 'sharpie" marker and run a line down from the case opening down about a quart inch lower than the shoulder onto the case.
WHILE THE INK IS WET, try to chamber the case in the offending rifle. Remove the tight case and observe where the ink is missing.
I'm thinking your shoulder has been pushed forward.
Get back to us on the results of the ink test.
Mike.
So you know you are using too much lube. The dents will iron out when you shoot them. Having 2 rifles with the same caliber is a lot less of a PITA if you keep the brass sererate.
If you have another shell holder try that. if not you may have to take a few thousands or an inch off your shell holder. Lay some sand paper on a flat surface and run the top of the shell holder on it. If you have a vernier you can measure before and after to see how much you have taken off. Make sure your shell holder makes good contact with the die at the very bottom of the stroke.
If you have another shell holder try that. if not you may have to take a few thousands or an inch off your shell holder. Lay some sand paper on a flat surface and run the top of the shell holder on it. If you have a vernier you can measure before and after to see how much you have taken off. Make sure your shell holder makes good contact with the die at the very bottom of the stroke.
My suggestion may not address the core cause of your problem, but it may make it disappear.
Buy a Lee Collet die for your Bolt action, and neck size your brass only. Once it's 2-3x fired in the bolt gun, Full length size as before for use in the AR-15.
Buy a Lee Collet die for your Bolt action, and neck size your brass only. Once it's 2-3x fired in the bolt gun, Full length size as before for use in the AR-15.
I agree with checking the OAL of the brass first.
A better investment than new dies would be a headspace gage IMO. Don't guess whether or not your knocking the the shoulder back far enough, measure it. Full length sizing keeps your velocity more consistent from loading to loading, plus it ensures reliable feeding. When its done properly, you aren't loosing any significant accuracy over neck sizing.
A better investment than new dies would be a headspace gage IMO. Don't guess whether or not your knocking the the shoulder back far enough, measure it. Full length sizing keeps your velocity more consistent from loading to loading, plus it ensures reliable feeding. When its done properly, you aren't loosing any significant accuracy over neck sizing.
Age,
Try one case, hand tighting as hard as you can the sizing die down on the shell holder and then lock it in place with the locking ring. Just touching might be anything. That should allow the sized cases to fit in any rifle. Dents and 223, only way I have beaten that one is use the redding type S die with the neck bushing. That setup leaves a gap in the die for extra lube between the shoulder top and neck bushing.
Try one case, hand tighting as hard as you can the sizing die down on the shell holder and then lock it in place with the locking ring. Just touching might be anything. That should allow the sized cases to fit in any rifle. Dents and 223, only way I have beaten that one is use the redding type S die with the neck bushing. That setup leaves a gap in the die for extra lube between the shoulder top and neck bushing.
Don't worry about the dents they will push back out once your ammo is fired. I had simmilar problems when I started loaded for my Ar-15... I had the reverse it worked fine in my 700 VLS but wouldn't close in my Ar-15 turns out my die was not adjusted all the way down.
I have some of the 3-die lee sets forsale in .223 with the collet neck sizer... I am currently useing there 3-die set for .308 for my m14 and no problems... they also claim it can be used without lube.
as for lubeing your .223 take a fine film on your fingers and rub the neck of the case so there is a light film you should not be able to visually see the lube... then it won't dint the necks.
I have some of the 3-die lee sets forsale in .223 with the collet neck sizer... I am currently useing there 3-die set for .308 for my m14 and no problems... they also claim it can be used without lube.
as for lubeing your .223 take a fine film on your fingers and rub the neck of the case so there is a light film you should not be able to visually see the lube... then it won't dint the necks.
Mystic Precision
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Just to confirm, the factory ammo brass that you fired WILL chamber easily again in your rifle.
If yes, then you need to put more lube in the neck and/or polish the expander ball on the die. It is pulling the neck forward. Lee collet die would be my choice.
If no, then you have a rifle problem where the lugs are not seating properly and flexing during firing. Pull the bolt out and look at the lugs. There should be obvious shiny wear on the back of the lugs. If one looks dull, like cast and the other has a shiny swirl, that is your problem and the rifle needs competent attention - ie send back to factory for correction.
For lubing consider a spray lube. Hornady one shot is really good but a bit pricey. I have been using the Frankford Arsenal spray with excellent results. Just a light spray mostly on the case body. Let sit for one minute. Size away. Dented cases should dissappear. I use the RCBS case lube on a Qtip to do the necks.
I rarely lube anymore since switching to the Lee collet die. I do lube when using the Redding body die to bump the shoulders as needed.
Jerry
Jerry
If yes, then you need to put more lube in the neck and/or polish the expander ball on the die. It is pulling the neck forward. Lee collet die would be my choice.
If no, then you have a rifle problem where the lugs are not seating properly and flexing during firing. Pull the bolt out and look at the lugs. There should be obvious shiny wear on the back of the lugs. If one looks dull, like cast and the other has a shiny swirl, that is your problem and the rifle needs competent attention - ie send back to factory for correction.
For lubing consider a spray lube. Hornady one shot is really good but a bit pricey. I have been using the Frankford Arsenal spray with excellent results. Just a light spray mostly on the case body. Let sit for one minute. Size away. Dented cases should dissappear. I use the RCBS case lube on a Qtip to do the necks.
I rarely lube anymore since switching to the Lee collet die. I do lube when using the Redding body die to bump the shoulders as needed.
Jerry
Jerry
THANKS GUYS . Problem solved , worked a double shift and could not get back and say thanks. Hornadys die manual said to have shell holder to just touch resize die, cranked it down a little gobbed a little lube inside the neck and bingo everything is good to go. Case lenghths are about 1.754 , did try a new shell holder, the marker idea was good to. Sure learned something from all you guys on this problem, saved a few bucks to. Have neck size die but the problem was driving me nuts and had to solve it. Thanks AGE
