Restoring a stripped stock

josquin

CGN Ultra frequent flyer
Uber Super GunNutz
Rating - 100%
22   0   0
Location
Mission, B.C.
I am refinishing an old stock that (presumably) had numerous coats of oil underneath a varathane finish. Several sources recommended oven cleaner as the fastest way to remove everything down to the bare wood. This it did but it has now taken on a darker colour, presumably on account of the caustic solution. Any recommendations for lightening this to something resembling normal? I plan to put an oil fnish on it.

:) Stuart
 
I have heard tung oil is very good to finish a wood stock with. You have to use many coats though. I have never used tung oil and it is second hand information so check it out before using it.

I am sure someone on this board can either confirm or deny how well tung oil works.
 
You will need to sand it before applying a finish and that should be enough to restore the original colour to the stock.
The darked wood is usually only on the surface, personally I like Tru oil.
You can speed up the drying process by pacing the stock in a WARM oven.
I usually turn the dial just until the oven light comes on (about 100 degerees) and then I still leave the door part way open.
 
Potassium permanganate mixed with water will lighten a stock up to a bleached look if you want.If you need specifics pm me and i will look up the specifics....Dennis:)
 
The darkness of the wood is caused by the caustic reaction. It probably burnt the top layer of wood fiber. If you sand be very careful of the grit you use. Keep the wood to metal fit very close. Try to lighten with a few applications of naptha gas and let dry between applications. PS don't smoke!!
I think this might work for you.;)

Bob
 
Don't use naptha. Use Varsol. AKA mineral spirits. Then use the same products and techniques you do for refinishing fine furniture.
 
Tung Oil

When you see the hand rubbed finishs of the grear customs,it's a wow.Well with Lee Valley polmerized tung oil,it both easy and simple.Just a couple weeks of 15 minutes a night.Use a sanding block,mine is 3 inches of 2x2,front and back edges rounded,1/4" closed cell foam with the Wet-N-Dry stapled to it.
1) dry sand down to 220 grit
2) wet sand with tung oil sealer and 320 grit until you get a finish.You will be surprised how few evenings.
3)wet sand with tung oil sealer and 400grit until......
4)600grit
5)800grit,this is a good finish,but I have gone down to 1200.
6)apply a coat of High Luster and after dry, floor polish wax.
 
Thanks for the info, folks. Now that the stock is thoroughly dry, most of it seems almost normal, although there are some dark spots still in the checkering. I will try sanding very carefully; I have also heard that white vinegar (acetic acid) will help so I may try that in a very small spot to see.

I plan to use Circa 1850 Tung n' Teak Oil and possibly finish off with their Antique Oil as that has given me good results before. I had also considered good old boiled linseed oil but would like a little more sheen.

:) Stuart
 
josquin said:
Thanks for the info, folks. Now that the stock is thoroughly dry, most of it seems almost normal, although there are some dark spots still in the checkering. I will try sanding very carefully; I have also heard that white vinegar (acetic acid) will help so I may try that in a very small spot to see.

I plan to use Circa 1850 Tung n' Teak Oil and possibly finish off with their Antique Oil as that has given me good results before. I had also considered good old boiled linseed oil but would like a little more sheen.

:) Stuart

Could the dark spots be caused by oils still in the stock from previous owners handling it??Then it was covered by some coats of finish and it sunk in now?

If so make a mixture of TSP and water. Mix 10 percent TSP with 30 parts of water and wash the stock and stand in the bathtub and let dry. When it dries it will turn brown cause its sucking the oil out of the stock. Wash it off and repeat.
TSP is sold at most common hardware stores and the full name is Trisodium phosphate...commonly used for washing walls and removing oils.

Hope this helps....Dennis..:)
 
icehunter121 said:
Could the dark spots be caused by oils still in the stock from previous owners handling it??...

Possibly, although there is some darkening at the back (ie butt end) of the cheekpiece; I think this may be some of the original stain, which I had hoped the oven cleaner would have removed. TSP may be a little less brutal than oven cleaner. Possibly covering the remaining dark areas with an old cloth and soaking them may draw the remaining stain/oil out.

:) Stuart
 
I'm curious as to the use of a caustic liquid such as oven cleaner on wood. I'm surprised by this recommendation by anyone, especially with the availability of a wide range of products for paint and finish stripping with most of them being completely enviromently friendly.

Duke1
 
duke1 said:
I'm curious as to the use of a caustic liquid such as oven cleaner on wood. I'm surprised by this recommendation by anyone, especially with the availability of a wide range of products for paint and finish stripping with most of them being completely enviromently friendly.

Duke1

Me, too. One reference to it is in Gunsmithing Rifles by Patrick Sweeney. I also have Circa 1850's environmentally-friendly stripper, which I have also used.

:) Stuart
 
Back
Top Bottom