At the range today shooting the PU sniper and the Uberti single action that Santa brought me. Everything was going according to plan until about the sixth or seventh cylinder with the Uberti. After firing the fourth round I couldn't #### the hammer past the first [safety] click. After much gentle persuasion I finely managed to get it to move but don't know what may have caused it. I shot one more cylinder worth with no further problems but would like to know why this happened. Don't much like the idea of having to take a loaded handgun to a gunsmith some day. Any ideas?
Revolver cylinder locked up.
- Thread starter skookumchuck
- Start date
- Location
- land of f-cktards
Over pressure or hot load that would make the primer pop out or the touch hole too big. Check for a recall
- Location
- West Quebec
Did you switch ammo brands the second time?
Brutus
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
At a guess I would look at the ammo as a culprit. Next time this happens do this:
-Carefully unload your revolver of the remaining rounds during this interrupted shooting session. Look for two things; ineffective crimp letting the bullet slide forward out of the case. There should be a slightly deformed bullet nose when this extends far enough forward to bind up the cylinder to the barrel forcing cone. Also check for a raised primer as this would create the same binding effect as a loose bullet.
-A third and least likely possibility is some bit of loose debris from shooting finding it's way into the pawl area or between the cylinder and frame.
I suspect strongly the first issue is the culprit here.
-Carefully unload your revolver of the remaining rounds during this interrupted shooting session. Look for two things; ineffective crimp letting the bullet slide forward out of the case. There should be a slightly deformed bullet nose when this extends far enough forward to bind up the cylinder to the barrel forcing cone. Also check for a raised primer as this would create the same binding effect as a loose bullet.
-A third and least likely possibility is some bit of loose debris from shooting finding it's way into the pawl area or between the cylinder and frame.
I suspect strongly the first issue is the culprit here.
Cocked&Locked
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- S. Ontario
Brutus beat me to it. My first comment was going to be check the noses of the unfired rounds for evidence of dragging on frame.
Sometimes it's not just the noses. In a box of commercial Winchester .38Spl I had not one but THREE rounds that had nasty burrs on the rims that prevented the casings seating fully into the cylinder. Locked the cylinder pretty well. Had to force the cylinder around so I could eject them.
This is where I learned that it's best to load the cylinder and before going to full #### to roll the cylinder with my hand to feel for high primers, burred rims or anything else that might be causing the cylinder to not turn freely. On Italian clones this involves closing the loading gate and rolling the cylinder while still at half ####. For a Ruger you leave the gate open and roll it through a full turn or more.
If it tightens up from firing it could be bullet creep letting the bullet on one of the rounds move forward. Or it could be a primer that moved out of the case and didn't get pushed fully back in by the firing and recoil of the main charge.
This is where I learned that it's best to load the cylinder and before going to full #### to roll the cylinder with my hand to feel for high primers, burred rims or anything else that might be causing the cylinder to not turn freely. On Italian clones this involves closing the loading gate and rolling the cylinder while still at half ####. For a Ruger you leave the gate open and roll it through a full turn or more.
If it tightens up from firing it could be bullet creep letting the bullet on one of the rounds move forward. Or it could be a primer that moved out of the case and didn't get pushed fully back in by the firing and recoil of the main charge.
Good to know the consensus is an ammunition problem. I thought it may have been mechanical and that I had purchased another BNIB lemon! Any of you reloaders know the maximum OAL for .38 special? I'll check the rest of the rounds with calipers.
Could be the cylinder bolt was not engaged by the hammer as it was pulled back, if it happens again try pushing the hammer forward and this should engage the bolt and free it up.
If it keeps happening you will need to have it repaired or fix it yourself, this is the kind of thing that causes drag marks on the cylinder.
If it keeps happening you will need to have it repaired or fix it yourself, this is the kind of thing that causes drag marks on the cylinder.
Last edited:
- Location
- West Quebec
1.550
Pure Energy
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- A river runs through it.
Not related to your lockup, but my 686 jammed on me once. Shot about 100 rounds of .38 special and then the cylinder wouldn't open. I made sure it was empty, casings still inside the cylinder and brought it home. I used a piece of wood to tap it open. I looked everywhere for a burr, or something broken. Then I spun the cylinder with the extractor rod clockwise and ping, out came the rod and spring. It had loosened off and the end of the rod was jamming on the gun. Threaded it back in and tightened it up, good to go.
PE, the OP has a single action. But your point on the ejector on swing out models is valid. Instead of a thread locker I prefer to hand tighten and then using a patch of thick leather as a pad and some pliers I tighten a LITTLE bit more. This is enough that the ejector rod stays tight but it's not so tight that I can't remove it easily for cleaning.
And when I say a "LITTLE" I really mean it. Just a few degrees of extra movement. If in doubt guess at less. If it comes loose again next time finger tighten and then snug it up a few more degrees than the first time. You do NOT want to over stress the small threading on the rod. So sneak up on the extra torque in small amounts. And load up the cylinder with empties for this instead of subjecting the alignment key and little pins to the torque.
And when I say a "LITTLE" I really mean it. Just a few degrees of extra movement. If in doubt guess at less. If it comes loose again next time finger tighten and then snug it up a few more degrees than the first time. You do NOT want to over stress the small threading on the rod. So sneak up on the extra torque in small amounts. And load up the cylinder with empties for this instead of subjecting the alignment key and little pins to the torque.
Pure Energy
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- A river runs through it.
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^^
Yes and yes, I put a tiny bit of blue on it and hand tightened hand. Been good ever since, and now I know what to look for if it ever does jam up again. Also, it is left hand thread.
^^
Yes and yes, I put a tiny bit of blue on it and hand tightened hand. Been good ever since, and now I know what to look for if it ever does jam up again. Also, it is left hand thread.
- Location
- Prince George B.C.
Back to the S.A. issue...... I had this same problem on a Pietta 1873 clone. Two issues came to light by the time it was resolved:
1) High primers! I had recently purchased a new reloading press and I wasn't used to the feel of the primer seating mechanism. An adjustment there eliminated most of my cylinder binding but not all......
2) Every once in a while my cylinder still stuck and I found the the firing pin bushing was not properly fitted into the frame. I took a file and a stone to it. That was the end of my cylinder binding issue.
John
p.s. I kind of doubt this is an ammo OAL length problem if you are using .38Sp ammo in a .357Mag cylinder....... jr
1) High primers! I had recently purchased a new reloading press and I wasn't used to the feel of the primer seating mechanism. An adjustment there eliminated most of my cylinder binding but not all......
2) Every once in a while my cylinder still stuck and I found the the firing pin bushing was not properly fitted into the frame. I took a file and a stone to it. That was the end of my cylinder binding issue.
John
p.s. I kind of doubt this is an ammo OAL length problem if you are using .38Sp ammo in a .357Mag cylinder....... jr
It's a dedicated .38. What would I look for to make sure the firing pin bushing is fine? I checked the OAL of the remainder of the box and they're good.
- Location
- Prince George B.C.
Remove the cylinder.
Look for the hole where the firing pin comes through the frame. Should be a small metal bushing that guides the firing pin. That bushing should be pretty much flush with the inside of the frame.
If it protrudes more than a couple of thou use a file and a stone to reduce it.
What gun do you have? An Uberti Stallion?
John
Look for the hole where the firing pin comes through the frame. Should be a small metal bushing that guides the firing pin. That bushing should be pretty much flush with the inside of the frame.
If it protrudes more than a couple of thou use a file and a stone to reduce it.
What gun do you have? An Uberti Stallion?
John
