Revolver or Semi-auto?
- Thread starter Dave_Shotgun
- Start date
Don't submit to the tyrany of reciprocating actions!
Handgun design peaked in 1899.
Buy a S&W K frame revolver.
Correction: Handgun design peaked in 1907 with the introduction of the N Frame in that most perfect of calibres, the .44 Special.
But seriously, odds are that you end up getting both.
I wouldn't worry about resale value; the only guns that are investments are high-end stuff like pre-war Colt SAAs or Winchesters, which are probably out of your league anyway, and are more for collecting than shooting.
One factor you may want to consider as to which one to choose as your first purchase is the availability of 38 Special and .357 Magnum ammo in your area compared to .45 ACP.
Preference is a gem in the mine! Everyone is different.
I've had all types of handguns from Glocks to high end SVI 2011's, to 22 revo up to big XFrame 460 revo.....each has it's own personality and style, and each has it's own attraction.....I dare you to buy one and not the other....
I've had all types of handguns from Glocks to high end SVI 2011's, to 22 revo up to big XFrame 460 revo.....each has it's own personality and style, and each has it's own attraction.....I dare you to buy one and not the other....
Toss a coin and buy one. Then as soon as you can afford it buy the other. Or get the .22 suggested already and following that buy the other.
Then volunteer and set up some Speed Steel matches in your club and make sure there are categories for both your guns to shoot in....
Then volunteer and set up some Speed Steel matches in your club and make sure there are categories for both your guns to shoot in....
Based on that, I'd go with the .357... Ruger I assume?
The GP100 was my first centerfire Restricted
Semi:
-Most parts can be easily swapped/stripped; barrel changes are easy.
-Loading mags is more fun as well as quicker if you have multiple magazines.
-LCF (look cool factor) is high.
-Picking up brass sucks
-More chances of failure
Revolver:
-Ultra Reliable
-No brass policing
-Powerful
-Barrel is not changed easily
-Canadian law says that the barrel does not include the chamber so we get lots of ugly Revolvers here of the 6" type.
what to do
that's pretty funny getting advice on canadian gunsite to buy u.s. made revolver. If you don't know much about it get a friend to let you shoot theirs, heft it, sleep with it, drool over it, then take all this free advice from everyone and go buy three of each.....and a rifle and shotgun or two. No man can ever have to many. after all this is GUNNTUZ....no all seriousness aside get a 357 revolver, 38's are cheap to plink with in same gun and then go get some deer meat with your magnum shells......Oh and most importantly wheel guns don't jam when you have a grizzly charging......rip
that's pretty funny getting advice on canadian gunsite to buy u.s. made revolver. If you don't know much about it get a friend to let you shoot theirs, heft it, sleep with it, drool over it, then take all this free advice from everyone and go buy three of each.....and a rifle and shotgun or two. No man can ever have to many. after all this is GUNNTUZ....no all seriousness aside get a 357 revolver, 38's are cheap to plink with in same gun and then go get some deer meat with your magnum shells......Oh and most importantly wheel guns don't jam when you have a grizzly charging......rip
- Location
- WMU248 near Edmonton
I shoot both,
But when you go to the range and pull out a big old N frame 6" barrel 357mag and start smacking the plates everyoen notices
Black plastic semi's are just another black plastic semi
Plastic only belongs on handgun grips and only when you cant get wood.
But when you go to the range and pull out a big old N frame 6" barrel 357mag and start smacking the plates everyoen notices
Black plastic semi's are just another black plastic semi
Plastic only belongs on handgun grips and only when you cant get wood.
Based on that, I'd go with the .357... Ruger I assume?
The GP100 was my first centerfire Restricted
Semi:
-Most parts can be easily swapped/stripped; barrel changes are easy.
-Loading mags is more fun as well as quicker if you have multiple magazines.
-LCF (look cool factor) is high.
-Picking up brass sucks
-More chances of failure
Revolver:
-Ultra Reliable
-No brass policing
-Powerful
-Barrel is not changed easily
-Canadian law says that the barrel does not include the chamber so we get lots of ugly Revolvers here of the 6" type.
Sorry but revolvers are not more reliable than an auto.
Here's a nice overview for those on the fence.
Revolvers

Limited magazine capacity

Heavier than most autos,
larger in overall dimensions than autos

As many parts as some autos and more parts than others

Most parts require a gunsmith to install, no "drop in" capability

Increased recoil due to magnum cartridges

Long and heavy double action triggers

Many moving parts when trigger is pulled

No manual safety

No "out of ammo" indicator

Many revolvers have integral rear sights. 

Many revolvers have no option for night sights

Cylinder gap blast can be quite severe

Timing issues
Blown primers cause firearm to fail indefinitely

Aligning six rounds with six holes requires fine motor skills and more effort than aligning one large magazine with one large hole
Cannot execute tactical reloads(top ups) with speed loaders.

Cannot execute tactical or emergency reloads without rendering the firearm useless

Partial reloads(less than full cylinder) can result in dropping the hammer on several empty chambers before the live rounds.
Cylinder gap blast destroys the top strap, eventually rendering the firearm unsafe

No ability to mount a light

Slower reloads

Failure for any ONE casing to fall from the cylinder renders a speed loader useless until all chambers are cleared.

Spare ammo(speed loaders) take up more real estate than magazines with fewer rounds

Unable to surpress a revolver

Ejector rods back off causing the cylinder to lock up

Excessive firing and heat build up cause empty cases to stick in the cylinder

Excessive firing creates large deposits of carbon on and in the cylinder

High bore axis and magnum calibres combine to form a turning moment, increased muzzle flip.

Open action prone to debris

Slow follow up shots

Difficult to operate one handed



As far as accuracy goes. A single action trigger is a nice advantage for precision shooting. From a practical stand point, the revolver shooter will never #### the hammer when using the firearm in a high stress situation. Sight radius is neither critical nor required for accurate fire out to and including 25 yards. Proper training and practice can hone a persons ability to shoot naturally, also known as instinct or point shooting to the point where sights are neither needed nor depended on. The length of a handguns sight radius varies so little from handgun to handgun that the difference is a non issue. Handguns are designed for close range and usually sport large chunky sights which reflect their intended usage. They're handy/convenient, and quick to bare. They are not precision instruments from a traditional precision stand point. As for operation, the slide does not begin its movement until AFTER the projectile has left the barrel. Slide movement as a cause for "inaccuracy" is usually a result of poor sight picture or operator error. 
Some other points. Barrels and their lengths can be changed on a revolver, at the cost of other attributes, Namely weight and handling characteristics. Barrel length has very little to do with accuracy, Velocity is the key. An increase in barrel length can increase velocities which results in more consistent accuracy over greater distances. Again, handguns are designed for short range work, making an increase in velocity/accuracy of little gain. Even with an increase in velocity with a longer barrel, revolvers are still wasting much of their potential gain due to the cylinder gap.
 Revolvers have 6(or more) open chambers for which debris can enter and cause problems. A plugged chamber could very well cause the revolver to detonate on firing. For most autos the only access points are the mag well and the muzzle. Beretta being one of the exceptions with its open slide design.

Revolvers are not necessarily easier to train novices on. Both autos and revolvers require three movements to operate. Insert magazine/shells, Cycle the slide/close the cylinder, pull the trigger. Many autos have manual safeties which may require operation. Revolvers require the shooter to mind the cylinder gap so as not to get burnt or get a gas cut. Other than crossing ones thumbs, the slide will not damage the shooter if they run their fingers against the slide during firing. With rapid heat build up on revolvers from sustained firing, the shooter must make contact with a potentially hot cylinder. This is not required by those who shoot autos. The slide does not heat up as rapidly, nor does it achieve the high temps a revolver can. Should the auto get extremely hot, the slide release can be used as an alternative.

There's probably some more points I've missed but I'm sure you get the idea. Most military's and LE agencies issue autos. The domination of autos over revolvers in both of these areas was not achieved by the offering of cheaper firearms or inferior firearms.
TDC
ETA: Some of the points above are in reference to duty/service pistols but the same principles apply to competitive shooting as well.
Dave_Shotgun
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- Ford Nation! :)
I currently own a DA Grizzly shotgun and I'd like to get a handgun eventually, preferably from the EE. I really don't want to have a huge gun collection like many of you guys do and cost is not an issue for me, because I have thousands of dollars saved up. I think a S & W 686 stainless steel revolver be a more reliable and powerful handgun than the 1911. Also, since 38 special bullets are fairly cheap, I'd shoot with those mostly. Do S & W magnums have high recoil?
- Location
- Kawartha Lakes
Yup....buy them both. I would stay away from Norinco. Remember your brass is never left behind with a revolver.
easyrider604
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Greater Vancouver, BC
If you really really really can buy only one, go with the 357 revolver. A Ruger GP100 should serve you well. Most versatile type of handgun and caliber.
Few shooters will have the will power to stop at one handgun, regardless of their financial situation. So a Norkie 1911 is almost guaranteed to be in your future.
We all know the OP won't stop at one but his question is what he should get now and I'll assume it's his first handgun...FWIW, my first handgun was a 686 that I own to this day. It was followed by a pre B CZ75 which I sold after a year or so. When I was starting out on handguns I found the revolver easier to shoot (not a gun gamer or mall ninja but a target shooter/plinker). There was no slide movement to distract me and the weight of the revolver helped in taming the recoil of factory rounds. It was also faster and easier to load. Shooting .38's through a .357 revolver is a very good option (lover recoil, muzzle blast, noise and cost) even though I've never put a .38 round through any of the .357 revolvers I owned. When I first started shooting handgun I didn't even concern myself with picking up brass because I didn't reload. My only question to the OP would be: What do you really like at this point in time? Buy it, enjoy it and when you no longer enjoy owning it, sell it and move on to another. If you enjoy it, you'll keep it and buy another. The only limiting factor in this hobby is your credit limit. YMMV.......
YMMV.......
Dave_Shotgun
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- Ford Nation! :)
I'm leaning more towards a S & W or Ruger 357 magnum right now. It's more expensive than the Norinco 1911, but it will probably last longer and it's more durable. It seems more reliable too and less prone to misfeed. I also like how the 357's can shoot cheap 38 special rounds. I really only need one handgun and one shotgun. I already have a nice shotgun.
I'm leaning more towards a S & W or Ruger 357 magnum right now. It's more expensive than the Norinco 1911, but it will probably last longer and it's more durable. It seems more reliable too and less prone to misfeed. I also like how the 357's can shoot cheap 38 special rounds. I really only need one handgun and one shotgun. I already have a nice shotgun.
Either the Ruger or S&W will "go more rounds" without having to replace parts than a Norc. This is my opinion only because I sold my Norinco shortly after I bought it and shot 200 rounds through it. I've shot 1000's of rounds through my 686 since the early '80's and she is still very accurate and functions 100%. It never has required servicing and has never given me any trouble. I bought a Norc 1911 to check it out 'up close and personal' and with the intention of turning into a 'custom' gun but changed my mind and acquired a Wilson Combat CQB from the EE instead. But I'm of the opinion that after a few 1000 rounds a Norc 1911 may need some 'attention'. (I could be wrong) The Norc 1911's are truly a good value for the money if that's what you are seeking.
A .357 Magnum revolver will shoot .38 Special rounds with no problems much like a .44 Magnum revolver can be fed .44 Special. The .38 Special round is shorter (but same diameeter) than the .357 Magnum round so the only caveat is to make sure the cylinder has been 'scrubbed' after you've shot a diet of .38's. Excessive buildup can/may make it hard to load .357 rounds.
FWIW, I find if I buy something I really want/like I tend to keep it longer and am generally more satisfied with my purchase. YMMV.....
