Richard Microfit stock, recoil pad and sanding ?

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I just received my black/gray laminated stock the other day for my model 70. I was impressed that the stock came in just under three months. Packaging wasn’t the greatest but I have to finish it anyway. I can see that I have lots of sanding to do for a nice smooth finish but I’m not sure what to do with the recoil pad. I guess the pad was glued in place because I don’t see any screw holes.

So how does one go about finishing the stock when the pad is in the way and cannot be removed ? Masking the pad when applying the finish shouldn’t be a problem but I may have a problem when it comes time for sanding. WOULD ANYONE HAVE ANY EXPERIENCE WITH THIS ?

I may have made a mistake when I ordered the stock , asking for this stock with no cap or tip. The cap is not the problem. I wanted that look but the stock is much longer then what I expected and I guess it’s because the tip isn’t there. They didn’t trim it down, expecting me to do it , so looks like I’m going to trim it down some. The trick is to make a nice straight and square cut for a good look.

Now I’m not going to ask about what grit of sand paper to use to finish this stock because I know it’s here somewhere on this site but if anyone would have the info handy and pass it along , it sure would be nice...
 
Work with the pad in place is fine -- you can mask it a bit if you wish, but sanding would just smooth and blend it out more -- I have done several this way. Some like having the butt pad in place when they do the stock.

Start with medium to coarse with those stocks as there is lots of sanding to be done! work finer and finer to 400 grit for the final sanding. The laminated wood is not the toughest wood so it may or may not take the finest sanding to achieve the result of a hard, dense, wood stock.
 
A bit off topic, but can you post a few pictures of the stock in it's raw state..

I was going to order one for a Savage 17Hmr I have, and not seeing one as is, but in a finished state on their site, I am curious as to how much work there really is, to have it look good ?

it would be this one, I am ordering, but in the grey laminate

SilhouetteTactical8inch72dpi.jpg


Thanks for any reply you might have
 
Congrats, and yes , mask the pad, and the stock is pretty much finished in that area for you , all is needed is a bit of 220 grit to make it all even.
You will find some tool marks, get those out with 80 or 100, and if its your first , go easy in the grip area , but lots of wood in other areas to remove.
A sealer, then tru-oil is great, can make it dull or gloss, 10-15 light rub on coats, (by hand, and peanut butter to clean up your hands, works awesome)
A dremel will make a fine job in the grip areas, stippling is easy, and classy.
I left a pin stripe, like on the HW 97K airguns , and created the same pattern..
An if you like your work, they also sell exhibition grade claro in a modern classic , which I got for my cz 375 h&h , and 06 PH. Awesome wood, and fun to work, and finish.
Oh , before you get at the outside, bed the gun, and float the barrel, be careful in the barrel channel , and action for a nice wood to metal finish/look, no honking gaps, look along the gun for a better view of the inlet.
CT sells a very good bedding material, all you need is some release agent, like maxima chain wax for the metal
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0000_Maxima_Chain_Wax_--.jpg
 
Here is what mine looked like out of the box.
Richards_stock.jpg


I used a rasp to round the forend, using penciled guide lines to keep the stock looking straight. Then I sanded it with coarse then fine sandpaper using a sanding block. Using a damp cloth I wiped it down to raise the hairs and then sanded some more. The final step was to go over with steel wool. The finish used was tru-oil spray on.

Like you I found the recoil pad to be screwed (philips med) and glued on. I couldn't remove it easily and didn't want to pry it off. Masking tape worked fine.
 
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