rifle cases on a progressive

hoochie

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I have been sizing and depriming on a single stage, then cleaning off the lube, trimming etc before running my rounds through the progressive to load them.
Is there a better or faster way to do it?
 
If there is I would like to hear it as well. I do the same with my Dillon 550B

I think you would need to go carbide die sets and add a power trimmer to one of the stages.
 
I lube before they go in the press, then run them all through and drop them in the tumbler for 5 minutes to clean off the lube.

Don't do this with hollow pointed bullets, unless you don't mind your HP's full of media.

For trimming I measure up my brass before it goes into the press, if it's close to trim length, I trim unsized. I know that you should trim first, but I find trimming before works well enough, although I may end up re-trimming one firing before the guys who do it after sizing.

For lube I use RCBS spray lube, but anything would work. I used to use the RCBS Lube Dies, but I found they worked pretty well at the start, but ended up more hassle then they were worth, especially with spray lubes as an option.
 
doesnt the lube bung up the media? I had thought of doing that as well, but changed my mind cause i thought the media would get mucked up with lube.
 
It does eventually, but most of the guys I know who size on a single stage, still take off the lube with a tumbler.

I would use straight walnut for removing the lube, since I'm often cleaning up cast bullets with liquid alox on them as well, I add a little mineral spirits to cut the alox.

Reportedly you can get big bags of walnut really cheap at pet stores.

I've tumbled thousands of rounds, many that I'm cleaning alox off of as well, and my media is still doing the job fine. If you were just cleaning off spray lube I'm sure your media life would be very extensive.
 
I've used the LEE neck sizing dies and avoid the lube issue. Unless you're looking for really accurate loads, instead of burning up a bunch in a semiauto, I find that I don't need to clean the primer pockets every time, usually one every 3 or 4 times depending on the powder burned. Getting the powder measure to be consistantly within .2 of the targeted charge is what I struggle with most on a progressive press.
 
Usually I deprime the cases with a Lee Universal Deprimer, don't need lube, then into the tumbler for cleaning. Trim the cases and then reload as normal on my 550.
 
I used my 1050 to process cases in bulk, sizing, primer pocket swaging, trimming. The cases were lubed with Dillon spray lube, and tumbled in fresh corncob to remove the lube.

For loading, I used an undersized Lee Collet die in station one to make sure the flash hole was clear of media.
 
Toolhead #1 on my 550 had a full length sizing die at stage 1 and the power trimmer on stage 3.

After chamfer and tumble, toolhead #2 has either a neck size die on stage 1 (no lube) or universal decapping die (depends on the caliber) to clean the flash hole of media, powder charge on stage 2 and seating on stage 3.
 
I spray lube my .223/5.56 cases with Dillon Lube while shaking them around in a shoe box. I then drop the cases in the case feeder on my Dillon 650 for reloading. They come out (same as my pistol rounds) perfect. If there is better equipment for reloading than Dillon I have never used it. I use the rounds “as is” for practice but for competition I take the lube off. I do this with a bit of lighter fluid on a piece of paper towel. The lighter fluid works well but if you are going to try using it remember it is quite flammable so do it in a well ventilated area. Also, I would advise against smoking while playing with the lighter fluid. My friend tried it once; I never realized he could break dance.

The lube left on the rounds after reloading has never caused a jam in bolt guns, AR’s or XCR’s but I don’t feel comfortable using ‘sticky’ rounds in competition.

Good Luck!
 
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