rifle stock checkering
- Thread starter JJ1979
- Start date
Does it really have to be checkered???
Don't get me wrong, I love decent checkering but it does tend to get dinged up in the field.
One of my favorite forms of grip adherence on the fore end of a rifle, wood or composite, is that rough, sandpaper type tape that hockey players use on the blades of their sticks to give them better control of the puck.
The last time I purchased some, from a local sports shop, they had three different colors. White/Black/Brown.
The other method that works well and is easily maintained it to outline the area you intend to grip and have it ''coarse sandblasted"
Much cheaper and as often as not they work as well or even better than cut checkering in the field. Especially when wearing fiber insulated gloves.
Don't get me wrong, I love decent checkering but it does tend to get dinged up in the field.
One of my favorite forms of grip adherence on the fore end of a rifle, wood or composite, is that rough, sandpaper type tape that hockey players use on the blades of their sticks to give them better control of the puck.
The last time I purchased some, from a local sports shop, they had three different colors. White/Black/Brown.
The other method that works well and is easily maintained it to outline the area you intend to grip and have it ''coarse sandblasted"
Much cheaper and as often as not they work as well or even better than cut checkering in the field. Especially when wearing fiber insulated gloves.
Best and cheapest answer!
Lots of DIY info online. Key to the whole thing is patience and good lighting.
Agreed!
Lots of vids online to help ya get started.
Did a couple a few years back, which were also my first.
Like trevj stated patience is a must.
If I may share a couple of old threads for ya.
Cooey Hiawatha made Special
Mossberg 195 Winter Project
Lots of vids online to help ya get started.
Did a couple a few years back, which were also my first.
Like trevj stated patience is a must.
If I may share a couple of old threads for ya.
Cooey Hiawatha made Special
Mossberg 195 Winter Project
Oh dear!
It may come as a shock, but some folks have lives other than in front of a keyboard. (says the guy with arse calluses that match his desk chair embroidery! LOL!)
Until proven otherwise, maybe the way to keep him around, is to treat his question as valid, and carry on. Worst case, the info is still good for others who go looking.
You never know. You might be the clueless newb asking about what HE knows well some day, somewhere where he does 'hang out'.
This guy's videos cover it in more and better detail than the Midway USA videos.
I like that he does not make it sound impossible, but he does not sugar coat the hazards either.
Choose a simple design, get your layout set in well, set up your pattern and master lines, Use lots of painters tape (masking tape) to define your edges as needed. that will protect against over running the borders somewhat.
The real patience part is in getting the pattern established, and resisting the urge to go straight to full depth on each line in turn. Scratch in the pattern, go over it to deepen, watching for run offs and following of the grain rather than the line, and gradually deepen the pattern so that the lines stay straight and the diamonds point up.
Get yer Zen on! Distractions and trying to watch TV while doing this, makes for really bad results.
If you can find a copy of Gunstock Checkering and carving by Mont Kennedy, there are some decent ideas in there for making tools that work well. Mostly it requires a lot of careful filing with a set of needle files, some basic hardening (propane torch or gas stove level stuff) and a willingness to put some time into the stuff.
I like that he does not make it sound impossible, but he does not sugar coat the hazards either.
Choose a simple design, get your layout set in well, set up your pattern and master lines, Use lots of painters tape (masking tape) to define your edges as needed. that will protect against over running the borders somewhat.
The real patience part is in getting the pattern established, and resisting the urge to go straight to full depth on each line in turn. Scratch in the pattern, go over it to deepen, watching for run offs and following of the grain rather than the line, and gradually deepen the pattern so that the lines stay straight and the diamonds point up.
Get yer Zen on! Distractions and trying to watch TV while doing this, makes for really bad results.
If you can find a copy of Gunstock Checkering and carving by Mont Kennedy, there are some decent ideas in there for making tools that work well. Mostly it requires a lot of careful filing with a set of needle files, some basic hardening (propane torch or gas stove level stuff) and a willingness to put some time into the stuff.
That's quite acceptable for a first attempt... I have seen much worse after several attempts... it is not uncommon to have to rasp and sand the first attempt off the stock...
Most should try the first attempt on a used walnut stock - forget about beech wood cheapies...
Most should try the first attempt on a used walnut stock - forget about beech wood cheapies...
I've seen commercial stocks with checkering that didn't look that good. The early Zastava imports come to mind.
I can clean up existing checkering but I don't do well for full out projects. I'm a wood butcher but great with metal.
IMHO, that checkering is quite acceptable, especially for a first job. I'm jealous.
There have been SEVERAL answers to the question!
Most opine that a DIY job is going to meet the OP's needs (probably) the best!
As you have commented, but not provided the so called answer either, does your comment have any validity?
Ayup. My first go was just following the lines that were damaged, but already there. I learned a LOT about what could go wrong, because it all did.
Then you have the very serious problem of being too close to the work being done! BTDT! The guy that GETS the work, is liable to be WAY more satisfied, than he who DOES the work. The guy that did the work has spent hours looking at all the faults he has created!
All the guy who GETS it, sees, is that it is wonderful!
FWIW, my dad's best friend re-checkered my dad's Model 70 Fwt, that was bought new in 1958. I will never touch it. Not because it is perfect, but because it was dad's, he was happy with it, and it was the work of his best friend!
Sometimes it's not all about being better than the guys at Holland and Holland, or similar such.
Quote Originally Posted by oldstarfire View Post
Wow! Two pages, not one answer to the question.........
My apologies for wasting your time good sir. I do not post much. I do read/listen a lot. One such thing I have heard over the years was along the lines of one man speaks, a wise man listens. I am still learning and come here to do just that. Many on CGN know volumes more than I ever will. I defer to those with more knowledge.
Wow! Two pages, not one answer to the question.........
My apologies for wasting your time good sir. I do not post much. I do read/listen a lot. One such thing I have heard over the years was along the lines of one man speaks, a wise man listens. I am still learning and come here to do just that. Many on CGN know volumes more than I ever will. I defer to those with more knowledge.
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There have been SEVERAL answers to the question!
Most opine that a DIY job is going to meet the OP's needs (probably) the best!
As you have commented, but not provided the so called answer either, does your comment have any validity?
I had looked into the DIY route for checkering. It is a lack of time that directed me to ask this question. I do appreciate all the responses. All of them. I may end up sanding/refinishing the stock, smoothing the existing checkering and applying a textured grip coating. It is a 'utility rifle' but I would still prefer it to not look like a terrible bubbafication job.
