rifle "tweaking"

[NormB]

What type of Rugers?

Interesting comments re. the Rugers. I have never seen one which did not respond well to bedding the action and floating the barrel and I know I've bedded and tested scores of them.
They frequently will not shoot well if the forend pressure is removed and the action is not glass bedded simply because the action is often quite a poor fit in the stock. Regards, Bill

Neither ATR, or Leeper defined which type of Rugers are under consideration.

I assumed ATR was talking about Ruger#1's, then according to my experience and many other's ATR is right as they don't respond as well to "free floating, or reducing barrel pressure.

I would expect a one piece stocked bolt action Ruger would repond as well as any other quality bolt action rifle to barrel floating and proper bedding, maybe these are the ones Leeper is referring to.

NormB

 

[alberta tactical rifle]

Norm Thanks for sorting that out, Yes you are correct with my poor wording number1s, just plain do not seem to benefit from bedding, &&s can be bedded and seem to usually work better when bedded, this also seems to reduce the incidence of stock cracks in their laminated rifle stocks

 

[JoeP's old business account]

Does anyone have any suggestions on how to tweak my Rem 700 in 30-06? It shoots good now but i want that extra confidence @300yds.+

I'd agree with most of the guys. Bedding is the first place to start if it hasn't been addressed. Wether you go pillar bedding or just a simple bedding job is up for debate. Pillar bedding certainly helps prevent the over torquing and crushing the wood between the parts being screwed. Poured pillars will work but they are probably the worst way to go due to the mechanical properties of the nature of the beast. Steel, aluminum and f. glass pillars are have better mechanical properties.

Crowning is not a mistake.

Free floating the barrel maybe pending the quality of the original barrel. The groups may open up slightly but the barrel will be less influenced by the stock which if wood, may change your point of aim as the wood moves especially when exposed to cyclic conditions (humid-dry-humid...hot/cold/hot ....) If accuracy drops off, you can always reinstall a pressure point.

Making sure you use a quality bore guide and rod is also recommended to keep it shooting well. The last thing you want to do damage the bore (throat etc.).....

The trigger is the next area. Reducing pull weight is a good idea if you can safely handle the light pull. Reworking the trigger to reduce pull weight, creep etc. is okay, but upgrading the trigger to a Shilen ($125ish) or a jewell ($299ish) is never a mistake. The triggers have excellent resale value unlike a "trued" original Remington trigger. Gunsmithing labour is always nice to charge out since marking up parts for resale at reasonable prices brings in marginal returns. All of my customers go either the Jewell or Shilen route once they have tried them, even after having used reworked triggers (in an attempt to achieve the same level of adjustability and reliabilty of the after market triggers).

Optics is always important as is the mounting system.

Before you know it, the accuracy bug will have bitten you and the next thing you'll want is a fully custom built rifle Don't shoot one, because once you do, the seed is planted...