Rifle Zero

What is an acceptable zero, and what is your method for achieving it/confirming it?
Does it change/what do you do about it?

Seems the original question needs repeating for clarity. What you've asked seems extremely vague, even if, as you said later, you posted it in the 'Target and Precision Rifles' subforum. Rimfire or centrefire? At what range to your preferred target? What do you mean by an 'acceptable zero' - are you referring to something like 'how close to actually putting your bullets in the centre of the target do you consider adequate?' or more along the lines of 'where do you zero at whatever given range, such that holdover is necessary, or not?' I am finding this phrase especially difficult to understand. To me, an acceptable zero is one which will best result in stacking my projectiles at the desired point of impact, with whatever adjustments made in crosshair placement for wind, and whatever holdover adjustments as needed for different ranges outside my normally preferred zero distance. To 'achieve/confirm' a scope/rifle zero one shoots groups from a good rest and the groups of holes left on paper are enough to either confirm zero, or to indicate further reticle adjustment is required to obtain zero. Could you clarify the intention of your question?

As for 'Does it change/what do you do about it?' - this seems almost to be begging the question regarding equipment quality and/or installation integrity. If I had a firearm which shifted zero from one session to the next, I would examine every component involved, from the rail to the scope mounts to the scope itself, and try to determine which was defective. Aiming tools which result in inconsistent points of impact would not be acceptable in any circumstance. Again, it seems unclear what is being asked. Are you trying to shoot accurately using a $50 scope, or $20 mounts, or is something loose, perhaps your barrel? Very puzzling.
 
seems the original question needs repeating for clarity. What you've asked seems extremely vague, even if, as you said later, you posted it in the 'target and precision rifles' subforum. Rimfire or centrefire? (CF)

at what range to your preferred target?(matches are from 100-1400m)

what do you mean by an 'acceptable zero' - are you referring to something like 'how close to actually putting your bullets in the centre of the target do you consider adequate?'(yes)

or more along the lines of 'where do you zero at whatever given range, such that holdover is necessary, or not?' (yes, normally dial for elevation, but some cof with multiple targets on the clock require just using holdover)

i am finding this phrase especially difficult to understand. To me, an acceptable zero is one which will best result in stacking my projectiles at the desired point of impact, with whatever adjustments made in crosshair placement for wind, and whatever holdover adjustments as needed for different ranges outside my normally preferred zero distance. To 'achieve/confirm' a scope/rifle zero one shoots groups(how many, how many rounds) from a good rest and the groups of holes left on paper are enough to either confirm zero, or to indicate further reticle adjustment is required to obtain zero. Could you clarify the intention of your question?

As for 'does it change/what do you do about it?' - this seems almost to be begging the question regarding equipment quality and/or installation integrity. If i had a firearm which shifted zero from one session to the next, i would examine every component involved, from the rail to the scope mounts to the scope itself, and try to determine which was defective. Aiming tools which result in inconsistent points of impact would not be acceptable in any circumstance. Again, it seems unclear what is being asked. Are you trying to shoot accurately using a $50 scope, or $20 mounts,(again in tr and pr forum so no)

or is something loose, perhaps your barrel? Very puzzling.

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Zero at 100. Chronograph to validate the inputs for my ballistic calculator. Calculate drop for 200 yards, validate in real world. I've never had it not work for me.

If the scope has exposed elevation turret I'll usually dial the come-up at 200 yards and validate that as well. Most good scopes have remarkable tracking, but it's nice to know "for real".
 
As my wife often reminds me sarcasm is not an effective teaching tool. 31 years in the military teaches me otherwise!

Sounds like fun at O Groups.

Zero at 100. Chronograph to validate the inputs for my ballistic calculator. Calculate drop for 200 yards, validate in real world. I've never had it not work for me.

If the scope has exposed elevation turret I'll usually dial the come-up at 200 yards and validate that as well. Most good scopes have remarkable tracking, but it's nice to know "for real".

Ive found that chrony data is generally useful for starting ballistic data or measuring if handloads are within spec. Because Ill true out the data and use that because I'm more inclined to believe berger and their CDM vs whatever data I invent from chrony data.

For the close in competition stuff like 3gun, I zero at 100 meters, and normally use a mil reticle and write the data on the scope before matches for the ammo, out to 600-800. I won't dial in 3gun or PRS stuff unless necessary as it's a time vampire. I won't even look at a 2fp scope for anything since I need the reticle to be consistent in all power settings. I'll memorize the range band info before stages.
 
Sounds like fun at O Groups.



Ive found that chrony data is generally useful for starting ballistic data or measuring if handloads are within spec. Because Ill true out the data and use that because I'm more inclined to believe berger and their CDM vs whatever data I invent from chrony data.

For the close in competition stuff like 3gun, I zero at 100 meters, and normally use a mil reticle and write the data on the scope before matches for the ammo, out to 600-800. I won't dial in 3gun or PRS stuff unless necessary as it's a time vampire. I won't even look at a 2fp scope for anything since I need the reticle to be consistent in all power settings. I'll memorize the range band info before stages.

I too have been very impressed with CDMs, particularly with Berger Bullets

For PRS I have been back and forth WRT to dialing and holding. Most COF now I dial elevation and hold windage, in particular out to 600m. For longer troop lines or smaller targets will dial windage. Most of the PROs now are dialing elevation it seems, hell JTAC designed a reticle for Tangent Theta with that in mind and that is what they are teaching in their clinics.

Having been messing with the idea for turret labels which Morgun King has introduced. White labels, calibrated to your scope lines that you apply and then use wet wipe permament markers to note your target number and elavation on the label for each individual COF...Hold for windage..Very fast in practice, have not used it in a match yet.
 
You shoot in various competitions and you are asking this question ????

Yep, try not to let ego get in the way of learning things. Have been introducing quite a few folks to long range shooting over the past few years and have been messing with different approaches to quickly get repeatable zeros, in terms of sample size, positions, how much variance to accept and was curious how other folks are doing it. It has been surpising to me how many folks tell me they have good 100m zeros, and then well not.
 
Longbow - you ask what an acceptable zero is and how to confirm it and I will lend my thoughts to that.

An acceptable zero changes with the application and needs of the shooter. A hunter has an idea of what would be a good zero for him based on his hunting terrain and equipment (rifle,ammo and scope style). For many it might be maybe 200 yd and that would good enough for any hold unders or hold overs out to about 300 yds which represents decent capability to put a round into an 8 inch kill zone at reasonable distance on the first try.

A target/competitive shooter has different needs depending on distances involved. It is never a mistake to zero at the distance you intend on doing the majority of your shooting and then alter MOA setpoints (or hold off) as distances change. This is a good general average zero that results in minimum fiddling with elevation turrets and permits a bit of holding over or under at limited distance on either side of the zero distance chosen.

Since you've indicated that 100m - 1400m is likely in your course of fire - a good average zero distance in which you might do the majority of your shooting could be a 600 m zero. At that zero you're not cranking endlessly to jack your scope up to 1400 or down to 100. A mid range zero like that also allows a minimum hold over or under to give you some capability to shoot quickly without scope adjustment. Keep in mind however that holding more than a foot starts to allow significant error as most people have difficulty approximating anything more than a foot with accuracy. A reticle with BDC is a great help for this.

As far as maintaining zero I would go out on dead calm days at a reasonable temperature (preferably the temp you're likely to shoot at) and pay very close attention to your shooting platform and technique. Shoot a large enough sample size to establish zero. 5 rounds would be a bare minimum to be fired per group, then fire several different groups. Allow the barrel to cool sufficiently between shots and groups. Make sure the barrel has been cleaned thoroughly before firing for zero and allow yourself a few fouling shots before starting.

If of course you change loads you must start over again. Keep track of all your shot targets - save them in a folder for future reference and be sure to record as much info as possible on them including all significant environmental factors.

Different shooters might vary slightly from the above but in general they try to do something similar.
 
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