Rifled choke

So the only safe way to use sabots are thru a fully rifled barrel? That sucks. I wanted to try some of those new sabots but didnt want to buy a whole new barrel.

It's more a question of performance/stability of the projectile. The sabot has been purely designed for use in a rifled bbl. Consequently, the full potential of a sabot will not be derived even if a smoothbore/rifled choke combo is being used.
 
I would suggest you try Challenger rifled slugs. They seem to perform really well out of a smooth bore barrel with a rifled choke tube. Although you do not need the rifled choke with the Challengers. I believe the choke helps stabilize the slug. Not to mention the money you will save. Sabot slugs are primarily designed for fully rifled barrels although you can shoot rifled slugs through a fully rifled barrel. You will not benefit much by using a sabot slug in a smooth barrel with a rifled choke tube.
 
Most sabot slug ammo boxes will tell you if you need a fully rifled barrel or just a rifle choke tube.

I had a rifled choke for Remington, no luck with 5 different ammo.

Threw a cantilever rifled barrel on the Mossberg and at 110 yards I shoot consistent 2.5 - 3 inch groups.

My buddy use to use the challenger rifled slugs in his 870 fitted with a side saddle scope mount (not the best for accuracy) and he has shot deer out to 160 + yards. He only switched cause his son started hunting and needed a slug gun. Sonny got the old one, Dad got the new one.
 
Reference post #4, Algomacountry was correct in his statement as that comment was pertinent to rifled chokes and not rifled bbls.

Rifled chokes are designed for sabots. They were not designed for rifled slugs. If he said anything other than that I disagree!
 
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rifeled chokes and rifeled barrels are for sabot slugs .Rifeled slugs have there own rifeling built in to shot out of a smooth barrel.DUTCH
 
I have tried several different brands of sabot ammo in a 21" smoothbore slug barrel out of my Remington 1100 with an extended and flushmount rifled choke tube and usually 3 out of the 5 sabots tumble. Even the Remington Copper solids. The only sabot that seems to work well are the Winchester BRI's. They have a skirt on them and are nose heavy like a rifled slug and that in my opinion stabilizes them more than the 2 or 3 inches of rifling at the end of the bore. A rifled choke just does not have enough spin for a sabot. However a full bore hard slug like a Remington Buckhammer, well that is a different story. I'm going to try a moose with one in about 2 weeks and I will post the results.
 
rifeled chokes and rifeled barrels are for sabot slugs .Rifeled slugs have there own rifeling built in to shot out of a smooth barrel.DUTCH

Many rifled slugs are hollow at the base and slightly over common bore size. When fired the slug easily conforms to the bore and chokes of most standard smooth bores, which are anything but standard in measurement.
 
Rifled choke tubes will not accurately shoot the high velocity slugs, they will tumble guranteed. I had an 870 with a rifled choke tube and the only slug that it shot with any accuracy was the Challengers and Remington Copper Solids. At best 100 yards was maximum range.
 
A little off topic, but those rifled tubes do not do a bad job at creating a spredder pattern for close range wing shooting. Peak inside an invector spreader tube and it is very similar to a rifled tube. I think they do a great job of pulling the wad away from the pay load.
 
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