Rimfire barrel cleaning

shadow

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Hi All,

May seem like a stupid question, but..... I picked up a left hand CZ 452 and have really enjoyed shooting it. I mostly shoot centrefire stuff, but the rifle is very accurate and the targets and silhoutte shooting has been an eye opener. As for cleaning the barrel, how often should I do it and what works best? I have found conflicting information on when to clean, some say after a hundred rounds, some say never. Also, if anyone can help me with any information on 22 silhoutte competitions, as in how to get invovled, where, etc., in ALberta, that would be great.

Your help would be appreciated.

Shadow
 
Here is a little write up I did. This is my opinion of course. Everybody has there way of cleaning but this is how I clean.

In the past years, endless debates have arose regarding the proper cleaning of both rimfire and centerfire firearms. There are many opinions on how to clean any given firearm. Some say cleaning with a brass brush is a necessity, when others people argue that cleaning with a patch and a bit of solvent will do the job without any risk of damage.

I strongly believe in the use of a brush every once and a while to get rid of the lead that builds up in the bore, and the chamber area especially overtime. Not necessary every single time but maybe every 500-1000 rounds a pass with a brass brush won’t do much damage. I use a nylon brush quite frequently in many of my benchrest rifles along with y 10/22.

There are many things that need to be paid attention to when cleaning. You need to make sure that you are using the correct size brush and rod, you have to insure the equipment you are using is good, and many other things.

The first step to insure proper cleaning of a firearm, is to insert the bore-guide. Make sure that the bore guide fits into the gun properly so that the cleaning rod slides into the chamber without hitting any edges, and so that no access cleaning solution can enter or damage the trigger mechanism. Having siad that many people to not use a bore guide and have not damaged thier guns at all.

Before putting the cleaning rod into the gun, make sure that no grit is on the cleaning rod (if so, wipe off with wet paper towel and dry and with a dry piece). This will insure that no “grit” can damage the barrel of the gun.

What I first do when cleaning is I run a quick wet patch through the gun. This is a patch that has cleaning solvent on it. Just one pass is fine. This will remove the majority of the “gunk” out of the barrel.

After I have run a wet patch through it, I usually use a nylon brush to remove all of the lead and carbon that could possibly built up in the barrel. One nice thing about the nylon brushes is that you can reverse it in the barrel. That is, if you pushed it half way through and then wanted to pull it back you could do this without too much difficulty. With the brass brushes it is very hard to do this without a lot of force. It may even be possible to damage the barrel this way. You can also pull it back and forth through the muzzle without damaging anything if you are careful. Now with the nylon brush attached to the cleaning rod, I run it through the barrel about 5 times (1 time = back and forth). I also dip it in the cleaning solvent before running it through (but just the one time, not each pass)

Now that the gunk is “knocked out” from the rifling and the bore, you have to remove it from the barrel. To do this I simply run 2 dry patches through the barrel to remove the gunk and any leftover cleaning solvent.

After this is all done just wipe off the crown to remove and gunk and the gun powder on the outside.

Now you are all done. I also usually wipe down the gun with a silicone cloth. This may sound like a long procedure but it really doesn’t take that long.

On my bolt action guns I push a brass brush through it 2 or 3 times removing it at the muzzle each time. I do this every 500-1000 rounds.

Each gun has different preferences for when to be cleaned. I clean usually every 50-100 rounds on my benchrest guns when using target ammunition. When using the bulk type gun out of other guns I clean every 200 rounds or so.
 
shadow:

Go to alberta provincial rifle association website. Look in the club section for Rosebud silhoutte and benchrest club. Phone or email the contacts for shoot dates and other info such as clubs in your area. I used to shoot at a clubs near Forestburg, rosebud and near Warner. Not sure whats going on anymore-----Cowboy
 
cz452shooter said:
Here is a little write up I did. This is my opinion of course. Everybody has there way of cleaning but this is how I clean.

Thanks for the in depth cleaning guide cz452shooter.

Richard
 
the other side of it is what kind of ammo you put through it- if it's the lead bullet crap , or smokes a lot, you're going to have to clean more often than the plated , clean burning stuff- and price has no reflection on this - you can plated for about the same price as lead- also you might want to pay attention as to where it's made- i've found the offshore( russia and the phillipines) burns dirtier - either way, a bit of hoppes 9 and a bronze brush takes care of it- i have found however that some patches are thicker than others, espically the remington- they love to get stuck and it takes considerable effort to get them through
 
For an ad nauseum discussion of the benefits of various cleaning methods go to the benchrest.com rimfire forum and search for "cleaning"

I clean my bolt rifles from the breach with a steel rod, never aluminum. Aluminum is soft, gets scored, gathers grit and turn into a sort of grit file which can damage the barrel. Even worse, aluminum rubs off on the rifling like a crayon and gets permanently burned in by the hot gases the next time you shoot. I usually use a brass jag to push patches through. If there is a buildup of lead I use lead remover. If that doesnt work I use a brass brush.

My 10/22s, including VQ barrels, I clean with a homemade boresnake and patches. I would not hesitate to remove the barrel and use a brass brush from the breach end if it was necessary to remove stubborn deposits.

Cleaning from thr muzzle can affect accracy, the crown is the most crucial part of the barrel and one rounded or chipped land will make a noticeable difference. It allows gases to escape the barrel unevenly as the bullet exits the muzzle.
 
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Ikantski said:
How can you tell when there's buildup of lead in the barrel?
You can see it. If you have a borescope it is plain as day. If you just use your eye and a light you can see it where the chamber meets the rifling, and sometimes as less shiny or ripply areas just ahead of the chamber.
 
beretta boy said:
And what do you use (specifically) for "lead removal" ???

I use shooter's choice lead remover on cotton patches. As long as the patches keep coming out dirty, there is still lead in the bore.
 
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Shadow
If you're going to be involved in competition.silhouette, the last place you want to realize that your rifle is losing consistency due to fouling is on the firing line in the middle of a string half way through turkeys. There is lots of advice on cleaning methods on this and on Rimfirecentral.com.
Probably the best way to determine whether the rifle needs cleaning is
to practice prevenative maintenance. Clean after your practice.Or you could shoot until you find accuracy declines. If you are careful with your cleaning you will not damage the barrel.
As far as copper-washed ammo vs lubed lead you will find the best target
grade ammo and grades lower are lubed lead and they will give you the best
consistency. Lubed lead ammo does not shed lead or foul the bore any faster
than copper washed ammo. Lapua,Eley,RWS and others are offered in varying grades of consistency and price. An excellent source of info for silo shooters
is Steelchickens.com.
The best with your shooting
Dryfire
 
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Ikantski said:
My VQ barrel says "No brass brushes" and to clean by dropping a weighted string with patches from the breech end.
I have never gone anywheree near ANY of my rifles with a pull through, anmd neither has any national or World champion I have ever met ( and I have know quite a few).
Bore guides and one piece rods are the only way to ensure a clean rifle without undo wear on the crown or chamber......

Cat
 
Simply dropping a string down the barrel, maybe nnothing.
Exerting enough force to pull the patch through while rubbing it on thhe side of the chhamber or the crrown definatly will , in time ruin either.
A bore guide and stiff rod and a properly sized patch ensures that this does not happen.
Cat
 
cleaning bores

Bought a spray can of Remington Brite Bore at a gun show 2 months ago , used it on all my rifles and shotgun , works great , cleaned up my shotgun barrel's shining clean , removes carbon , powder , copper , lead deposits , still use Hoppes #9 , but this stuff is better . I use my .22 cleaning rod for everything , shotgun , .35 Rem., .270 Win., .22 mag., .22 long rifle . hope this helps ..... Joe
 
when i bought my savage.17hmr the guy told me to clean it every 10 shots. not just the first 10, EVERY ten....I thought that was a lil much and i can't find a one piece rod small enough (all sold out of .17cal) so in the mean time i'm using an air conpresser....seems to clean it pretty decent(have about 35 rounds threw the gun so far)
 
DVXDUDE said:
when i bought my savage.17hmr the guy told me to clean it every 10 shots. not just the first 10, EVERY ten....I thought that was a lil much and i can't find a one piece rod small enough (all sold out of .17cal) so in the mean time i'm using an air conpresser....seems to clean it pretty decent(have about 35 rounds threw the gun so far)

Go to a shop that sells RWS / Diana airguns. They have a nice smooth cleaning rod that does well in a rimfire barrel.

RWS%20Cleaning%20Kit.jpg


LH
 
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