Rimfire Snapcaps

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Wondering what are the recommended snapcaps for a 22LR?

I've seen the Azoom snapcaps at Cabela's, which seem good for center fires (with the rubber core). However I'm curious how well the rimfire ones would work, since wouldn't they get dented with each dryfire?
 
Drywall anchors are good for preventing you from dropping the hammer on the chamber face, but they're not great for testing feeding and ejection. Perfect for revolvers, and they work to one degree or another in everything, but the "real" snapcaps do have their advantages.

I use both, I have a 5-pack of the Azoom and a box of the drywall anchors. I try to avoid dry firing on the Azoom ones, they work but over time you'll damage the rim which can cause feeding issues - mine get stuck in the tube mag on one of my guns for example.
 
The drywall anchors can leave bits of plastic in your action depending on the action and how long you keep using them.
I also re use empty brass cases for guns that are easy to hand load into the chambers like revolvers and break action.... I will rotate them around and get as much use as I can then recycle them.
 
I've seen red/clear plastic ones that appear to be snap caps but DO dent/deform before long. Then there are the blue/aluminum A-zoom which are supposed to be practice rounds/not snap caps but I've used them for that. Have a small ziploc pinned to the wall, wait until one gets chewed-up then toss it and grab a new one.

In related news-I didn't know you could de-#### the bolt on a bolt action until I was about 25 years deep into the sport. lol For bolt actions, single shots, falling blocks, levers and anything with an external hammer-easy to manually de-####=no need for one. I only use them in semis as I won't dry fire or leave the bolt cocked for any length of time.
 
I've used the Tipton Red plastic caps - They DO fall apart after about 10-15 shots. I use SCs when loading mags so the SC is 'last shot' and I had One that the rim fell apart and the body got 'stuffed' into the Chamber. Luckily it didn't go far enuf to let the next round of the 'next mag' to 'fully load'. "Lucky Jam" !! I found that the Pachmayr Orange caps last longer, but they also fail - ( Pachmayr 03200 22 Lr Plastic Safety Snap Caps (24) Pack, Orange, one Size ).
Both cost about $1 per round. The Pach- do cycle 'better' in my mags, but YMMV. And I tried Drywall Anchors but as said, I wanted something that cycled. The Red Tiptons did but the plastic chips off quick.
 
boxhitch, I've found that on 'better' rifles like my CZs, the fired brass mostly won't go back into that rifle. They prob will work on 'less fussy' rifles. I put some of the Red Tiptons 'tips' (pun) into old brass for some of my other rifles but getting them to feed properly is still fussy. The Pach caps for a buck each last pretty well.
 
someone on here maybe? had some 3d printed tips to insert into a spent 22 brass
idk price or availability though

You could also just use pliers to pull bullets from unfired 22lr, then glue them into a used case. Probably cheaper than paying for 3d printed bullets.

Better yet, pull the bullet, dump the powder, light off the primer and now you can make dummy rounds that don't have expanded cases from firing. This should solve issues like Buck1950 has with tight cz chambers.
 
I've wondered for a long time, why no one has ever bothered to make dummy rounds from solid brass rod. If I owned a mini-lathe, I'd make them myself.
 
boxhitch, I've found that on 'better' rifles like my CZs, the fired brass mostly won't go back into that rifle. They prob will work on 'less fussy' rifles. I put some of the Red Tiptons 'tips' (pun) into old brass for some of my other rifles but getting them to feed properly is still fussy. The Pach caps for a buck each last pretty well.

I can see a match chamber struggling with a random case from a different chamber but I'm surprised that your CZ can't fire form, extract and then re chamber a case.

I've never felt the need to chamber .22lr snap caps from a magazine as I typically use them for dry firing practice more then a way of dropping the hammer on an action that can't be de-cocked without firing.... on that note most semi actions can also be manually de-cocked.

Using spent brass they get chewed up as well so I don't see much point in taking the time to make dummy shells.

If you do have a gun that can't be decocked without firing and it's hard to get a home made snap cap into the chamber, and it's old and not designed to be dryfired.... I'd probably just leave it cocked.
 
I just set up a RIMX & it doesn't accept snap kaps at all .
My 1710 doesn't care for them either.

I have pulled bullets and replacd them , great to
shoot just priming compound.
...skwerl
 
Some great suggestions. 👍

Just came across these ones on Amazon. Interestingly they use a replacable rubber pad stuck to the bottom of the cartridge to absorb the hammer impact. Not sure if that could cause cycling issues.

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0BFGGMPWD

Hard to tell how good they are, since most of the reviews seem to be for the shotgun caps that are on the same listing (damn Amazon).
 
I just set up a RIMX & it doesn't accept snap kaps at all .
My 1710 doesn't care for them either.

I have pulled bullets and replacd them , great to
shoot just priming compound.
...skwerl

After you shoot just priming compound, can you re-use the fire formed case?

What do you use them for in your match guns? Dry fire practice?

Are either of the guns you mention safe to fire with no rounds in the chamber without doing any damage?
 
Some great suggestions. ��

Just came across these ones on Amazon. Interestingly they use a replacable rubber pad stuck to the bottom of the cartridge to absorb the hammer impact. Not sure if that could cause cycling issues.

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0BFGGMPWD

Hard to tell how good they are, since most of the reviews seem to be for the shotgun caps that are on the same listing (damn Amazon).

They look pretty cheap and might be worth a try, I wonder what kind of glue they recommend for swaping out the rubber pads?... probably super glue

re-using spend cases is about as cheap as it will get if you can get them to chamber.
 
Some great suggestions. ��

Just came across these ones on Amazon. Interestingly they use a replacable rubber pad stuck to the bottom of the cartridge to absorb the hammer impact. Not sure if that could cause cycling issues.

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0BFGGMPWD

Hard to tell how good they are, since most of the reviews seem to be for the shotgun caps that are on the same listing (damn Amazon).

I wonder what metal they are made from. If it is steel, I'm not sure I would want to be running those in and out of my match chamber.
Perhaps, I will order some just to have a look and verify the metal and dimensions.

The "Yodave" snap caps work really great but they don't last long, so it can get expensive if one is doing a lot of dryfiring.
 
I wonder what metal they are made from. If it is steel, I'm not sure I would want to be running those in and out of my match chamber.
Perhaps, I will order some just to have a look and verify the metal and dimensions.

The "Yodave" snap caps work really great but they don't last long, so it can get expensive if one is doing a lot of dryfiring.

Let us know for sure!

They are precision CNC machined from solid metal to precise cartridge dimensions, then electroplating for smooth functioning and long life.
 
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