Robarms XCR FAQ post

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XCR changes since it was introduced posted here: http://xcrcarbine.com/forum/index.php/topic,58.0.html

1: Tool-less gas system. The first guns shipped with a gas system that needed a wrench

2. Intergrated winter trigger guard added

3. QD sling loop stud added to stock

4. Paddle style safety added. Also available as an ambidextrous model

5. Firing pin redesigned to prevent breakage

6. Enhanced Trigger added as a standard feature. It drops the weight down to 3.5-4lbs, has a shorter pull, and faster, smoother reset, with no trigger slap.

7. Sling loop removed from rear of receiver (See #3)

9. Tube stock available in 3 LOP's. 13", 12" and 10" PDW

10. The XCR, if it ships with sights, will feature Midwest Industries sights, instead of YHM

11. Single piece bolt catch replaced two piece design. It is now standard.

12. Light weight oprod introduced and made standard
 
Does the manual include all of the torque specs for the bolts on the XCR?

When I was reading terra mention in the other thread about putting different loc-tite and putting the screws in harder that made me a little nervous.

What is the fastener size and the old vs assembly torque for the ejector screw?
What is the fastener size and torque specification for the barrel bolt?
Could quality lock washers be used to reduce the chance of the bolt backing off but allowing us to use something like never-seez instead of loc-tite? I really, really dislike putting loc-tite on any fastener if I can at all avoid it.
 
Does the manual include all of the torque specs for the bolts on the XCR?

All that is covered in the manual.

When I was reading terra mention in the other thread about putting different loc-tite and putting the screws in harder that made me a little nervous.

Why would it make you nervous? We used to use 242 loctite, but found it wasn't strong enough. Since we switched to 277, no ejectors come loose. We still recommend you check to make sure the screws are tight every 4-5000 rounds.

What is the fastener size and the old vs assembly torque for the ejector screw?

We do not torque the ejector screws. We use a small ratcheted wrench to tighten them. Over tightening can break the head off of the screw. This is on purpose. It protects the threads from getting stripped out by an overzealous tightener. You have to tighten pretty hard to do so, but it's happened once or maybe twice in the last few years. :p

What is the fastener size and torque specification for the barrel bolt?
Could quality lock washers be used to reduce the chance of the bolt backing off but allowing us to use something like never-seez instead of loc-tite? I really, really dislike putting loc-tite on any fastener if I can at all avoid it.

If you torque it properly (The manual says 200 inch lbs, but we do 250 inch lbs here in the shop. Alex needs to update that in the manual), it won't come loose. Check the tightness every 4-5000 rounds just to make sure everything is good.
 
We do not torque the ejector screws. We use a small ratcheted wrench to tighten them. Over tightening can break the head off of the screw. This is on purpose. It protects the threads from getting stripped out by an overzealous tightener. You have to tighten pretty hard to do so, but it's happened once or maybe twice in the last few years. :p

I am very glad to read that the design has considered the chance of someone with ham fists installing the screws. Threads piling up are a far worse feeling than breaking the screw head off. I understand better now, and my nervousness is gone.
 
there were some QC issues earlier on with the C Products 30 round mags. Those have been rectified. However, you have 5 round mags so there is nothing to worry about.

carbonrod is right. If you're going to shoot something you know is corrosive, simply clean the rifle thoroughly when you are done.
 
I'm planning on mounting a 1-4x scope and I haven't found a photo of an XCR with a scope like that mounted to it without the rear BUIS being removed. Will I need a specific mount/scope to make keeping the rear BUIS on there possible? Or will I need to pick up a different set of BUIS?

I had used a Leupold VX-II 1-4 scope with the stock BUIS. I found that the irons would scratch my shooting glasses given the recoil after every shot, so I yanked them and use just the scope now. Though, I'm in the process of searching for an upgrade to the Leupy as I found I ran out of adjustments on the 600m targets at a service rifle match.

XCR_LeupyVX2.png
 
My x39 showed up today. I might have to leave work early tomorrow with a case of ammo.
Canadian Version
18.5 in barrel w/ pinned welded muzzle break
NEA AR stock adaptor
I’m still waiting for some Magpul stuff from brownells


DSC00346.jpg
 
I'm in the process of saving up some money to put a new stock and some optics on my XCR, and I've got a couple questions for those of you in the know.

For owners of the new NEA stock adapter: How's the cheekweld? It looks like the ones here in Canada are a little bit lower than the ones they get in the U.S.

I'm planning on mounting a 1-4x scope and I haven't found a photo of an XCR with a scope like that mounted to it without the rear BUIS being removed. Will I need a specific mount/scope to make keeping the rear BUIS on there possible? Or will I need to pick up a different set of BUIS?

I just took off the rear buis and stuck it on 3 oclock rail.

Rockyfriends.jpg
 
5/32 for the grip screw, and 1/8 for the stock bolts. Make sure you don't lose your safety detent and spring when changing the grip. happens all the time.

Found it. It was the 5/32. I had just went through all my wrenches and the 5/32 had fallen in with all my screwdrivers.

The Ergo Grip is a major plus. As an aside... the grip from the XCR is exactly the same as the one off my Rem .22 597 VTR... Robinson builds Remington firearms! Its a conspiracy!!! :eek:

Thanks XCRmonger.
 
Heres my new toy in 6.8. First by itself and then with the new family.

DSC_0008.jpg


And with the Family....

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Now, just waiting for the scope, and a new Tavor... :dancingbanana:
 
It seemed a good place to store the sight, w.t.h. they're rails may as well use them.
I'm just waiting on a T-pod, a rail sling loop, and rail light mount, along with a new trap door pistol grip, to arrive from Fab-Arms in Israel.
They make great stuff.

Here's my nice pair.
XCRandBenelli121-M1.jpg



I like how you popped the rear sight onto the rail I'm thinking I will be copying you when I get my XCR.

My rifle will be in 223 and I plan on using it for predator hunting so I will be mounting a Leupold Vari X 11 4-12X40mm that I just had Tony at Korth Group do a free warranty check so the scope is in perfect shape and I also had him install the Leupold LR reticle.

I have two other scopes that I will eventually try on this XCR both are Burris one is a Mini Mag 3-9 Ballistic Plex reticle and the other is a Fullfield EER 1X shotgun reticle.
 
Sweet! What do you use on your gas guns? I try to test my rifles on the coldest days I can find. At least my hunting rifle, but about the coldest days I can find are ~ -35.

The only "gas" guns I've used here so far is my CZ-858 and my Rem 597 VTR... The CZ ran like a top with OTIS Special Forces Lube. the 597, I used the regular OTIS liquid, and it would fire and seize up, clear, fire, fire, fire, seize... on and on.... Cleaned er up and used dry graphite lube, and she goes well. I tried the graphite ASAP as I wasn't sure if it was the 597 being the problem.

Now the disclaimer here, is I don't usually take ANYTHING nice out here. Everything rusts. My baby gun is a Blaser, and I shipped it back south so I wasn't even tempted to take it out here again. When I did take it out, I used graphite, and it ran smooth.

The snow here just gets into everything on a sled, so all I would take out now if I'm using a sled is an old .303 British, which I bubba'ed a synthetic stock on. Iron sited for bears.... But if you go out in cold enough stuff... even the bolt guns you use liquid on get "grippy" when you cycle them. You also have to have them across your back and able to be accessed... you can't have em in a case...

The XCR will be a summer only gun, but I'd like to make sure the break in period is done with a good oil.

To be truthful, until this year where I bought the CZ858, M305, XCR and Tavor, the only semi I owned was a .22. Being not that familiar with "black" rifles, I wonder, on each gun, how much oil to use, and where to put certain amounts. You always see AR's being loaded with oil on TV, how does that translate to something like an XCR or a Tavor or a CZ?

Sorry I got rambling....
 
Guys it's a 85gr @ 2950fps - 115gr .270cal bullets doing only 2600fps if your lucky myself I wouldn't be hunting moose with it...

Agreed. I wouldn't choose it to go for moose or elk, I'd take my .257 'Bee or my .308. But if I was say, away from home and some crazy opportunity to hunt these animals with it came up, I would go for it.

We have "Magnum Fever" these days.... the venerable .30/30 has killed many a moose, and I watch the Inuit here bring in polar bear, narwhal and walrus all the time. Most use either .303 or .223. You just have to know your capabilities, and be patient for the right shot. The 6.8 in the XCR has me genuinely excited about it's use for hunting, and it is in a unique position to start to "modernize" the accepted hunting firearm in Canada.

Now, back to your regularly scheduled topic.....
 
Here is mine with the new CTR and cheek piece on

P1030650.jpg


I also have a question:

Lets say - hypothetically - if someone happens to mix up the 5.56, 7.62, and 6.8 casing deflectors :redface: Is there any way to re-identify them, or is there any real problem with using them mismatched?
 
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