Robarms XCR FAQ post

Once I have this thing apart I am going to measure it, image record the internals, and draw up the trigger. I am then planning to machine one up with a custom design, out of T6 7075 billet to match the trigger I've got on my Nighthawk Custom GRP. Comments or anyone wanting one? Not sure when I'll get it done, most likely be this winter. (and no I will not be sharing any part information on line to piss off the boys at Robinsons Arms, I'm sure this thing is copyrighted)

I was thinking of doing the same thing, except dont use aluminum for the trigger. The original seems to be fine cast or sintered.

If machined it should be hard steel or machined and hardened
 
I was thinking of doing the same thing, except dont use aluminum for the trigger. The original seems to be fine cast or sintered.

If machined it should be hard steel or machined and hardened


I disagree, 7075 T6 aluminum is very tough stuff. I've been in the machining/aerospace industry for many years and have made countless things from it. Half of my damn race bike (highly modded GSXR1000) is made of the stuff too and it takes more of a beating than my guns.
The original seems to be made out of some kind of cast aluminum as well. Basically the trigger/safety mechanism is a failed design and to not make it from billet is a fail too. I'll never be able to put any faith in it ever again until I succeed in making it better. Thinking it could be made from titanium as well, have access to plenty of that! I'll have to test and see which has better wear properties for this application. Hardened 7075 T6 or titanium either would be better than what it has now.
Don't get me wrong I love the gun and think the boys at Robinson Armament did an awesome job, they just need to upgrade that area a bit.
 
Sent these images to Wanstalls so that they could order a new trigger for me. Lets see how long this takes to get a replacement from the States, not holding my breath this time but am hopeful.
XCR-Limage1.jpg

Trigger is definitely made from some light weight cast crap. Such a shame, these guns are not cheep, why the cheep parts?
XCR-Limage2.jpg

XCR-Limage3.jpg

You can see the damaged buffer and the small chip that the loose piece of trigger put into the heal of the gun under the buffer.
XCR-Limage4.jpg

Already allot of wear on this action release as well, wonder how long it is going to last.
XCR-Limage5.jpg
 
Anything you use would be better than the #### RA uses ...

The only advantage titanium has over steel is that its lighter at given strength and doesnt rust.

In a trigger I would want a hard surface for the parts that engage so they dont wear off. In your race bike there arent many moving parts that touch made from aluminum. Maybe your cyilnders are but they may have sleeves or coatings. The frame is probably alum but it has probably steel sleeves or bushings where moving parts attach

Either way.... My trigger broke as well and I since distrust the gun :mad: I have access to NC equipment so I may go to town on this sometime this year.


I disagree, 7075 T6 aluminum is very tough stuff. I've been in the machining/aerospace industry for many years and have made countless things from it. Half of my damn race bike (highly modded GSXR1000) is made of the stuff too and it takes more of a beating than my guns.
The original seems to be made out of some kind of cast aluminum as well. Basically the trigger/safety mechanism is a failed design and to not make it from billet is a fail too. I'll never be able to put any faith in it ever again until I succeed in making it better. Thinking it could be made from titanium as well, have access to plenty of that! I'll have to test and see which has better wear properties for this application. Hardened 7075 T6 or titanium either would be better than what it has now.
Don't get me wrong I love the gun and think the boys at Robinson Armament did an awesome job, they just need to upgrade that area a bit.
 
Anything you use would be better than the s**t RA uses ...

The only advantage titanium has over steel is that its lighter at given strength and doesnt rust.

In a trigger I would want a hard surface for the parts that engage so they dont wear off. In your race bike there arent many moving parts that touch made from aluminum. Maybe your cyilnders are but they may have sleeves or coatings. The frame is probably alum but it has probably steel sleeves or bushings where moving parts attach

Either way.... My trigger broke as well and I since distrust the gun :mad: I have access to NC equipment so I may go to town on this sometime this year.

Going to have to be careful how hard of a material this trigger is made of. Must remember there are mating surfaces that will take all the abuse if the trigger is that much harder. I want strength most of all with a good amount of wear-ability. I'll make more than one if and when I do it and can keep an eye on the wear factor, it's easy enough to change. Just sucks when it breaks cause that leaves you out of the picture all together. Due to the extra effort needed to machine them out of titanium, I'm starting to lean to 7075 aluminum in T6 form. Will then get it hard coat anodized. That should last quite a while and will never break and leave the gun useless like it is now.
 
Got a small pack of buffers last week so I'm good to go there now and the trigger assembly showed up the other day as well. Going to take some time to measure it all up and create a solid 3D CAD model of it so that I can make my own when ever I feel the need or this one breaks which ever comes 1st. Once again the boys at Wanstalls came through with the parts as promised. :cheers:
 
A couple of issues I have noticed: the bolt hold open that runs up behind the mag-well has a wedge on top with a forward pointing tab. That tab can pivot out the top round when the mag is inserted - on both C-product and LAR15 mags. Has anybody else had this? It looks like I will have to file that back, or not seat the rounds to the back of the mag.

Update on mags and feeding: I got some 5/30 P-mags and have not had any issues since.
---zeb
 
Update on mags and feeding: I got some 5/30 P-mags and have not had any issues since.
---zeb

Here also... :cool:

It does slam my bolt back the second I insert too hard a LAR-15 magazine but when I put standard STANAG - 5/30 mags it doesn't do it... Weird! :confused:
Also my bolt-release button is REALLY sensative when I insert LAR-15 mags. Something like 2 to 2.5 lb and it close the bolt back!
 
I took my new (used) XCR that I bought off another CGN'er out to the farm to put her through a short 100 round test. The first 85rds went smooth as silk and I was starting to think all the xcr bashing was bs. Then I got a lesson on why lock tight is mentioned so Much! While changing out my third last may I tried to release the bolt to realize the is no more bolt release! I look down tl see it lying in the grass at my feet:( not a huge f up and I'm not going to give up on the rifle yet, just hope that was a one time deal.
 
I took my new (used) XCR that I bought off another CGN'er out to the farm to put her through a short 100 round test. The first 85rds went smooth as silk and I was starting to think all the xcr bashing was bs. Then I got a lesson on why lock tight is mentioned so Much! While changing out my third last may I tried to release the bolt to realize the is no more bolt release! I look down tl see it lying in the grass at my feet:( not a huge f up and I'm not going to give up on the rifle yet, just hope that was a one time deal.
You should read the manual and the XCR thread, this problem could have been avoided. Operator error.:)
 
Anyone have trouble with 5/30 rnd pmags mine dont lock at all in magwell its almost like the magwell is too wide and is the flash hider right or left hand thread?
Thnx !!
 
Any AR15 mesh brass catcher will do

Does anyone know where I could find a brass catcher for the XCL-L

Any soft AR15 brass catcher will work fine.
You can see one on this page.
http://www.6mmbr.com/223Rem.html
I did a search for "AR15 mesh brass catcher" and found a 12$ one.
I've been using it for a year and have lost very few cases (over 1200 cases caught).
I does need to be emptied every 20 rounds or so and sometime a case will enter the bag and jump out but it just drops at the feet.

Alex
 
Has anybody taken their flash hider off? Just want some info before taking axes and hammers to mine .

Fairly simple to do, but it is pinned and welded. You have to carefully grind or mill of the tack weld that holds the pin. Once through, the pin should just fall out and you can unscrew the fh. Standard 1/2"x24 threading.

I've had no probs with pmags.
 
Back
Top Bottom