Rolling block stuff.

[Oddbawl]

So I'm starting to obsess over another the 50-70 rolling block project, luckily this one is in pretty good shape.

I've run in to a bit of a snag. The firing pin retaining screw ( the one you see in the side of the breech block) was pretty buggered, tried penetrating oil, heat etc, but there just wasn't enough to bite to get it out. I ended up having to drill it and use an extractor.
I blobbed a bit of weld on the head with a TIG and was feeling quite proud of myself, right up until I sheared the whole head off while trying to clean it up on the lathe.
Toast.
So, anyway...
It's a Gustav action, but has the button style retainer as opposed to the set screws like many Swedes.
I plan on making another screw, but I can't figure out what the threads are, I ran an M4x.7 screw into it, it almost fits but is loose, and it doesn't appear to be imperial. Does anybody have any idea what they were using back in the day?
I cannai find me thread pitch gauges.

 

[cdnrokon]

rollingblockparts.com may be of some help

 

[vagrantviking]

Could try Tradex. Maybe they have a handful of miscellaneous parts after selling so many of those.

 

[tjsudbury]

Kenn from rollingblockparts tells me that the Swede rollers for the most part use the same screw as the No. 1 action. He has them in stock, about 6 bucks or so

 

[trevj]

Made to Remignton's blueprints, likely on machinery bought in from Remington.

While the threads may not be to any modern standard (they made a lot of their tools in house too) they are likely a inch pitch.

 

[Oddbawl]

That's what I vaguely figured, they certainly aren't modern machine screw threads.
It looks like Kenn @ Rolling block parts has them as was posted above, thank the Lord of Rolling Blocks. I was laying awake at night agonizing over cutting obscure threads, when cutting ANY threads on a lathe is a dicy operation for my skill level. Hours of tears and knashing of teeth...

 

[fingers284]

Made to Remignton's blueprints, likely on machinery bought in from Remington.

While the threads may not be to any modern standard (they made a lot of their tools in house too) they are likely a inch pitch.

I bubba'd an original #1 into a more "commercial Buffalo rifle configuration last winter and needed to change the front stock mount to anchor in the hole originally made for a cleaning rod threaded into the bottom of the action at the barrel receiver. This action was a Rem original that was shipped to Denmark, that bolt thread was a definite metric thread.

 

[Oddbawl]

Kenn at Rolling Block Parts came through, thank God!
Let the build continue...

 

[Oddbawl]

I've changed the title of the thread slightly, as more RB stuff will be coming up as things progress.
The offending screw came from Kenn, and I cleaned up the other screws and screw head damage. I then fired up the pot to nitre blue all of the screws and pins.
Nitre bluing makes me so happy, it's really tough with my limited photographizing skills to do them justice with pictures.

Next up is drilling and tapping the tang for a tang sight.

I'm looking for opinions on the location. My first instinct is to go as far up the tang as possible without interfering with the Hammer when it's cocked.
Does anybody out here have a tang sight mounted on a RB they could have a look and reference location for me?

 

[fingers284]

I always use the back tang bolt as the starting point, sometimes I will just use it and not worry about a front screw...we don't use them like they did on the buffalo plains bouncing around in a wagon with no springs. The tang bolt is a very sturdy bolt and with the curve of the sight base fitting the curve of the tang, one bolt is enough for most modern usage, the second screw is basically for appearances only.

If you are bound to use two small screws and move the sight ahead from the tang bolt I would just thumb the hammer back to full #### and lay a loaded round on the open rolling block to make sure you have at least a finger thickness between the case head & your sight vernier when it is screwed down, mark the holes & drill.

You might want to tape your sight to the gun where you marked it & grip the gun just the way you would when you are going to shoot it just to make sure it doesn't interfere with where you want to put your thumb over the tang area. I prefer to lay my thumb alongside a tang sight but I have installed them for folks that insist that they need to roll that thumb over the tang...your preference .

 

[Goodwin81]

I bought one of the 50-70 Swedes from Tradeex, I gave it a bit of a makeover and then shot it. It shot and grouped well, but then I traded it. It was recently for sale at The Gun Dealer in NB.