Ross 1910 Sporter
- Thread starter gregr
- Start date
Fashion a heavy wire to go through the hole in the back of the firing pin first. Now, pull the cocking piece back beyond the end of the bolt body and turn it so it will stay there. Now, there is a football shaped pin holding this in place so punch it out.... now the cocking piece will come off. Now, pull the bolt head forward until it stops and remove the extractor by prying it out and pulling it forward. (Now, take a pic before you start of how the bolt head is aligned so when you are reassembling you will know where to put it.) After removing the extractor the bolt head and inner works will twist out to the front. Removing the firing pin is next. I used a large pair of plyers to screw out the threaded nut. Be careful not to lose flying parts here. There is a belleville washer in place under the threaded nut so make sure you remember how and where it goes. Pull pin and spring out...there done. Now assemble in reverse. Any questions PM me. Dave....Oh yes...the wire thingy which goes through the rear of firing pin. On reassembly make sure it is in place and the last step is to use that wire to pull the pin out far enough to allow reinsertion of the pin....final step. Complicated.....yes!
Is there a pin in the bolt body? If you have a pinned bolt you cannot reassemble the bolt incorrectly. If not, take care that it does close as tiriaq had stated.
This bolt is not pinned.
This bolt is pinned, the pin in the middle of the bolt body.
Hi-Standard
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- Republic of Newfoundland
Like tiriaq said, when the bolt head locking lugs are inline with the bolt race recesses, there should be a sizable gap of 3/4" or more between the bolt head and the bolt sleeve. The bolt is now ready to slide into the action. As a test, simply tap the bolt head with your finger, it should twist so that the locking lugs are almost 90 deg. off from the bolt sleeve races and snap shut. Reset the bolt head by pulling out and twisting counter-clockwise so that the lugs are realigned with the races and slide into the action, then flip up your bolt stop. Another check you can do is as you are pushing your bolt forward into your action, you should see your bolt head starting to rotate, as the bolt locks up. If you really want to be sure, close the bolt on an empty chamber and take a long piece of dowel, just small enough to fit in the bore from the muzzle, insert all the way down to the bolt face and tap the exposed end at the muzzle lightly with a mallet. If the bolt doesn't move, she's locked
Last edited:
I'm both fascinated with and terrified of the ross bolt's internal assembly. I believe there were at least mostly complete take down instructions with pics somewhere weren't there?
Either on milsurp library or somewhere?
AHA!
http://www.milsurps.com/showthread.php?t=12
Either on milsurp library or somewhere?
AHA!
http://www.milsurps.com/showthread.php?t=12
Last edited:
Good picts. As one can see an unpinned bolt can be assembled so it looks like it works but doesn't rotate. It still collapses into the bolt body and will allow the bolt to fir while unlocked.
I have tried it, and it's easy to make that deadly mistake.
Pete
I have tried it, and it's easy to make that deadly mistake.
Pete
- Location
- Manitoulin Island
I have an unpinned one, and tried once rotating it into another set of helical grooves without disassembling it. I got it out of location, but not far enough that it was in the collapsed position when aligned with the boltway. I got it back where it belonged with considerable difficulty and chickened out of further experimentation at that point.
Me too, doesn't take much fiddling to get it out. You can see where that story came from, have to be careful with them. The pinning thing was a very good idea.
To the original poster- As was said, why disassemble it? Saturate it with lube like Break Free, get it free that way, don't take it apart if it's not a really good reason.
Hey guys: the bolt is no big deal at all, and to pin a bolt is to destroy something that was original. Real simple:- with the bolt in the receiver, pull it back to the bolt-stop. Look at it from the top (different from the front) if you can see the gas vent hole pointing straight up to where Sir Charles apparently is these days, you're good to go. Stuart Mowbray recently published and outstanding book on dismantling surplus rifles, and there's a Ross in there, with excellent progressive instructions and photos. Buy a copy, please.
