Ross M10 Bolt removal

If you can get the sight bridge off with out buggering up the stock, that`s the best solution.

If not read svt1940`s post #15 again and do it that way.

Tapping on a wood dowel against the bolt face at an angle will also work.
 
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On a Ross, when you pull the trigger, the other part comes up...not that simple.

Basically though, the bolt went in...it will also come out the same way.

There was someone else with a rifle in this situation in the last year.
 
If the bolt is not riding in the receiver rails, things get nasty pretty quick. I had one of my Rosses out dogging for deer season this year. For some reason, it would not feed a shell from the mag - the shell seemed to be locked in place. I decided to take the bolt out and re-insert - something I've done many times. Well - for some reason, I missed the rails. Bolt went in and collapsed. At that point I sat down and tried to remove it - impossible with no tools, a hangover and cold hands...
Got back home - the bolt head was being hung up by the small latch in the left side of the receiver. I had to depress the latch with a small screwdriver to facilitate its removal.
In retrospect, I can see how the Ross fell out of favor in battle conditions. The inability to feed the round is still a mystery, and will cause me to retire the Ross from deer hunting.
 
cosmic said:
If the bolt is not riding in the receiver rails, things get nasty pretty quick. I had one of my Rosses out dogging for deer season this year. For some reason, it would not feed a shell from the mag - the shell seemed to be locked in place. I decided to take the bolt out and re-insert - something I've done many times. Well - for some reason, I missed the rails. Bolt went in and collapsed. At that point I sat down and tried to remove it - impossible with no tools, a hangover and cold hands...
Got back home - the bolt head was being hung up by the small latch in the left side of the receiver. I had to depress the latch with a small screwdriver to facilitate its removal.
In retrospect, I can see how the Ross fell out of favor in battle conditions. The inability to feed the round is still a mystery, and will cause me to retire the Ross from deer hunting.
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Sounds like you had the magazine cutout in the down position?
 
Kaos- the bolt got into that fix by rotating...it needs to rotate back. If you had something like a brass punch or similar long thin tool, you could experiment with pushing on the bolt lockup lugs while pulling back on the bolt handle. The bolt sleeve just slides back and forth in the rails, the bolt that is stuck is the part that rotates.

Do you have free access to all 4 sight bridge screws? Or are 2 of them covered by the stock?

If all else fails....could remove a touch of wood, enough to get those bridge screws out, then afterward repair the wood with Acraglas.

I say this because the rifle looks to be a typical sporterized Ross. If it was original I wouldn't say that.
 
If the bolt is on the rails removing the sight bridge may not help at all.

The lugs that hold the bolt when you normally pull the trigger, are not doing anything right now.

If you pull the trigger when the bolt is knocked back, there is more of a chance of damaging the locking lugs.
This is due to the fact that the bolthead is now vertical instead of horizontal like they normally are.

The only thing that happened here, is that someone tried to insert the bolt after the bolthead snapped back.
 
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If the bridge was off, you'd be able to see the top of the bolt...and get your tools and punches to work trying to rotate it back to the horizontal inclination. I've never been in this position thank God, despite owing lots of these rifles.
 
You will not be able to rotate the bolt head, as it is between the guide rails.

I agree, it would not hurt to have the sight bridge off.

But the bolt has to go straight back, if it is engaged in the guide rails.
 
The bolt was inserted with the head already in the locked position. No way the head could rotate like this alone. If the sight bridge can be removed, the bolt will be easy to be pulled back, otherwise driving it back carefully with a brass rod or a wood dowel will do the trick. Trying to rotate the bolt head in unlocked position will be extremely hard if not impossible. Shame on the one who tried to put that bolt this way, when you have to force a bolt so hard in a rifle, obviously there's something wrong!

Joce
 
cosmic said:
If the bolt is not riding in the receiver rails, things get nasty pretty quick. I had one of my Rosses out dogging for deer season this year. For some reason, it would not feed a shell from the mag - the shell seemed to be locked in place. I decided to take the bolt out and re-insert - something I've done many times. Well - for some reason, I missed the rails. Bolt went in and collapsed. At that point I sat down and tried to remove it - impossible with no tools, a hangover and cold hands...
Got back home - the bolt head was being hung up by the small latch in the left side of the receiver. I had to depress the latch with a small screwdriver to facilitate its removal.
In retrospect, I can see how the Ross fell out of favor in battle conditions. The inability to feed the round is still a mystery, and will cause me to retire the Ross from deer hunting.
Click to expand...

You likely had the mag cut off engaged.

Down position on the bolt stop.

The exact same thing would have happen if you were carrying a US. Model 1903 Springfield.

The bolt stops are almost identical.
 
Nope - I'm very familiar with Rosses, and can assure you the mag cutoff lever was correctly oriented. One of these days I'm going to try to recreate the malfunction - perhaps the case rims were locking...
 
Thanks very much for all of the suggestions / Ideas. I'm going to give another go at getting the sight bridge off- It is a sporterized one, so I'm not concerned about putting a scratch in the stock at all. It would just add it it..:) What worries me is the screws are in there just so tight. Just hoping I can get them out without stripping their heads! That will be the challenge. If not, then I'll try securing the trigger in the pulled back position & giving a dowel a whack. This might work too as when I try and pull the action back, I can see the bot rotate & it's usually at the same spot it stops. So, pushing it back without pulling back on the action might do it too.
 
kaos said:
Thanks very much for all of the suggestions / Ideas. I'm going to give another go at getting the sight bridge off- It is a sporterized one, so I'm not concerned about putting a scratch in the stock at all. It would just add it it..:) What worries me is the screws are in there just so tight. Just hoping I can get them out without stripping their heads! That will be the challenge. If not, then I'll try securing the trigger in the pulled back position & giving a dowel a whack. This might work too as when I try and pull the action back, I can see the bot rotate & it's usually at the same spot it stops. So, pushing it back without pulling back on the action might do it too.
Click to expand...

I'd try that first then, the dowel. No point buggering the screw heads if it won't accomplish anything.
 
No, not at all. Dowel being wood won't hurt anything. If you get it to start moving back, just pull the trigger and release alternately to allow the bolt head to ride over the trigger and sear and rocker without hurting anything.
 
if all else fails, tie the trigger back and make sure the cut off is in neutral. Have someone hold rifle upright with the butt planted on something solid. Then take a three or four foot length of a two by four and strike (in a downward motion) the bolt handle as hard as you can. What goes in has to come out.
 
old hound said:
if all else fails, tie the trigger back and make sure the cut off is in neutral. Have someone hold rifle upright with the butt planted on something solid. Then take a three or four foot length of a two by four and strike (in a downward motion) the bolt handle as hard as you can. What goes in has to come out.
Click to expand...

The trigger raises a rocker when it's pulled - the bolt would ride back against that and either damage it or jam/damage a lug. Better to do as Cantom says and rock the trigger to try to jimmy the bolt past. I feel like with the rear sight off it can probably be removed without force.
 
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